Yowzer

Cool! I had wondered what happened to this whip, glad it's still kicking!

No issue with these come cert time right? https://m.aliexpress.com/item/1005001614452563.html?spm=a2g0n.productlist.0.0.1b086bcdEZ6j4O&browser_id=be0b057569d8445e94c1465f51a47fb4&aff_trace_key=9c626c891bd74858b68f8c46ae7b9461-1619924120022-07230-_A8S9Is&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=179557949c918fea7d117addb528209f7b76619cdb&gclid=&_imgsrc_=ae01.alicdn.com%2Fkf%2FHc816367fd400468dab28d1abfdaa3795O.jpg_640x640Q90.jpg_.webp

I've done that with graphics cards a few times. Might give an ECU a go one day and see what happens.

Oooh yep you have bigger issues than the keys. That's fucked ECU right there. I fucking hate VZs. Whoever designed the computers must have been on meth or something.

VZs shit PCMs, BCMs and PIMs all the time. Annoyingly they all present near identical issues regardless of which module fails. As Tom said, the Service Vehicle Soon displaying while not starting is a giveaway of this issue.

Oh yeah nah sounds like timing is way up the shitter. Has that raspy running tone to it and trying to crank against an ignition stoke. Wind the dizzy back, or figure out wtfs gone wrong with the tone wheel. Whatever that engine runs, 4G64s had both at some point in life. Fucked cam timing won't cause that kinda shit on its own, but if the ign is triggered from a cam then that could be the issue. It's been awhile since I've played with one of these fucks so I can't recall exactly how they operate off the top of my head. I recall some junk running off the cam pulley and being shit.

I got bored of reading all that about 12 words in and have concluded that it needs to be tossed into the ocean where it belongs

I usually tweak the handbrake so it drags, go for a thrash around the block a couple of times hard on the brakes then tweak again.

Deeper than the angle grinder you didn't use

And that's why you don't buy cars from Christchurch

Send it to the bottom of the ocean STAT

Do you report these vehicles at all? Or just tell them to fuck off

That's some damn high pressure dirt. Starlet has like 6 torques going through the driveshaft. Chuck a big Deez and a couple tonnes up the arse and see how long the sealed joints last.

Oh right yup, pump them full and then close it. Regrease every 30k or so

Or just grease them when / if you change the oil. Easy as. Especially if they're cheap

May as well go non grease all the way through. Almost everything runs non greasy, and it's not like you're stressing them. Coz, Marina... Up to you. I've done 400,000km and 35 years on non greasy joints and only one is fucked.

And give them a good coating of oil to prevent any future rust

The need is that it makes the job a hell of a lot easier when you have the fluid behind the seals to create the pressure required to pump it through. Dry seals don't seal very well and it can take a bloody long time to get going. A fresh rebuild is different because you have presumably used fluid or rubber grease during assembly and is not comparible to a cylinder that has been sitting on a shelf for six years. There have been times I have regretted not bench bleeding a cylinder first. There have also been times they work near on straight away. I usually just dump some juice in the top and pump it till it jizzes all over the floor and that works good enough to bolt on.

Oh back on this, EGR generally isn't harmful on petrol engines and you can play around with it to improve economy if you need an excuse to make more graphs. Minimising blowby and feeding it into a catch can will keep your pistons clean far better than ditching the EGR.

Yes I believe I just said that. Also yes you can remove the valves from a lot of modern engines by hand. Far easier than mucking about with a spring compressor that usually never fits anywhere anyway

It's interesting how a lot of modern engines have gone away from hydraulic lifters. Harder wearing surfaces, less thermal expansion and better oil technology means there's much less need for them.

Modern cams don't bed. Look at the buckets, they are hardened and mirror smooth. They slip over the oils smooth as silk.

Yep nyloc is legit. Ya can chuck some locktite on too if you really wanna but I never do.

Another reason for gunky combustion chamber is low tension piston rings. If you've got it that far apart it's probably worth reringing it with better rings

600° is pretty safe. Ya can push 700 if you really wanna but for a big lump like that 600-650 is mint