Roman

Basically it wants to be pinged to max advance right until nearly redline, which at first I thought was cool but then makes me realize it just wants even more advance but cant have it. So still no way around needing those other pistons. But still, really happy with this for a "Free" stopgap fix! This is a before and after VE map (fuel table adjustment) from adjusting to best cam position.

First results! So at zero degrees advance now, it's real smooth to drive and idles real nice but it totally eats shit at full throttle haha. At cruising speed/rpm it's pulling 25% fuel out! Further investigation needed, but I think this is gonna mean I've unlocked some prius spec economy when the cams in that position. (Reduced pumping losses / dethrottling will actually work for once) So at full throttle, usual test of incrementing the cam. No MAF this time, so just looking at lambda results to see if it runs leaner (more air, so needs more fuel) Results are distinct! Approximately the 30 degree line (Yellow line) is the previous home position of the cam. Now with 45 degrees advance (red line) its gained shitloads. So it looks like some amount of gains right up to 8k rpm which is awesome! And I might have filled in that big hole in the fuel map around 4500rpm. Will do some more finer tuning around the 25-45ish range, but pretty stoked!

Ahh yeah so this cam has a locking pin that holds the cam at base position until there's oil pressure that can fill the gear. Otherwise the came rocks back and forth as the spring tension acts on the lobe. So I retarded the cam 3 teeth, and much to my frustration it still didnt reach full travel. This didnt make any sense because if I put it back 4 teeth, I'd be back to where it starts at home position. So I pulled the chain back off, and testing it loose - the cam doesnt move the full way anyway! So looking in more detail. It turns out there's a stopper pin that limits its advance. Like so: (This is at maximum advance) So this is great news, it meant I might not need a whole 3 teeth of cam retard. I tried it with only 2 teeth reaches the stopper pin with no piston to valve issues! Awesome. So now just got to finish chucking it all back together and do some testing. Hopefully see something useful from it. Will be interesting to see how it idles and drives with weird home cam position.

Yeah I've thought about that - but I'd need 4 of them machined exactly the same, and I'm not sure how I'd secure them in position. If I have to take the cam gear off and cam out, then it's easier to just retime the chain. So will give that a go first

Car has been running great. Just frustrating that all of the events to attend are getting shut down. Since it's been running good with no problems, obviously the thing to do is pull it apart again. As I want to investigate how much VVTI movement I can get with the current situation. From memory the valves clanged into the pistons at around 18 degrees advance. Counting the teeth on the cam gear, it's got 36 teeth so 10 degree divisions. So I cant quite use 2 teeth worth of advance, which is a pity. So I'd need to retard the cam gear by 3 teeth, and use only 10 deg advance over the current position. But then I gain 3 teeth worth of cam retard too, over just a fixed position. So at home position the cam would be open for quite a long period during compression stroke - Doing what the standard prius motor does. Hah. So I might get some better fuel economy out of it. Since the valve angle is quite steep I dont think there's any possibility of clanging intake valves into exhaust valves, but I will check on my spare head. I wonder if this will act weird with ITB setup. As there's less room to push the gas back into the intake. It's a wanker to do all this because, of stupid chain drive and sealed front cover. As well as that I've nanged on the front pulley with about 50 litres of loctite. Hopefully the starter motor can get it off. At TDC-ish It can advance about this far before it hits

Nearly finished. The sillyness is quite pleasing

It's actually modelled after a screw driver handle thank you very much

The round pipe at the bottom has an area of 2123mm2 The six slots have a combined open area of 5058mm2 So hopefully not too much pumping loss. Probably could have made them skinnier or shorter. In hindsight I think the wave will lose too much pressure travelling past the slots. But it will be interesting to see what length pipe it behaves like. Easy to make, first one is about 1/3rd done already. They are designed to be printed upside down so it doesnt need any supports. I dont think they will win any awards for outright power etc, just an extreme test case for trying to catch and reverse a wave with a capped end. So might see some weird peaks and troughs in the powerband perhaps.

Here's my submission for TORNADO SUPER SWIRL SUPER DUPER INTAKE Rather than swirl being the main idea though, it's more that it's a side feed runner so the end can stay capped. So maybe we'll get a stronger reflected wave perhaps? Will it work? Probably not! Will it be awful? Maybe not! This is why it's fun. Will try come up with something else as well.

I think this is where people see water spiraling down the bath plug hole and then assume that this is good flow. Or it wouldnt be @kpr's first run in with a tornado enthusiast hahahaha I might print some more junk for this

I cant wait to see how demoralized he gets when the peach cans win again

I love reading detailed stuff like this, really makes me feel like ive achieved something for the day when I obviously havent. Keep it up please

So whats the plan, big block motor in with the LSD box, into the best chassis?

Another cool thing about rampable fans. Instead of instantly on/off and shock loading your closed loop idle. You can gently ramp in the extra alternator load using a timer or whatever and it will help keep engine speed steady without a jolt.

Currently got shore A 60 filled mounts and its pretty rattly. Could perhaps do the rear one in 70 or 80.

I got a lid printed, clearances are tight. On this one I waxed up the printed part and then popped the carbon part off when it had finished. I might redo it the proper way and make a female mould so everything stays nicely flat on the outside. Because it's a bit bumpy. This needed a lot of sharp bits trimmed off because of my caveman methods. However in the meantime, from a functional perspective - it is, in fact, a lid. Still need to figure out how to seal it on nicely. To be honest it's got a few issues. The primary annoyance is that it hits the bonnet on the curved part near the headlight sometimes on decel. The angle of the pod filter pipe would be nicer if it was back a little further, on a hard decel the filter bonks the bumper sometimes. Which gives you a hell of a fright when you're half expecting a rod to fly out the block every time you're doing 8500rpm This is why I really needed a filter! I'm running on about 30% biofuel I sealed the lid on with some duct tape and it's absolutely incredible how much it's reduced the noise level compared to open trumpets. I'm seeing zero changes to the fuel table (so no indications of being a restriction) However I just cant believe how much it's killed the intake noise. It's still got a 100mm dia opening, and at least that much cross sectional area as the pipe goes up. Obviously it's not great to kill all the cool intake noises. But man I feel a whole lot better about driving it late at night around the place without annoying everyone haha. Now that I know it's definitely not restrictive as-is, I might add a bit more clearance in a few areas. I'll add a boss for the IAT sensor and a pipe fitting for crankcase vent gas. Also, all of my trackdays got cancelled. Hopefully a Meremere test day will still be going ahead in about 2 weeks. bonus content from slightly prior to the noise killing airbox

I know you're looking for NZ based stuff, but have you had a scour on YAJ? There's some weird tercel stuff thats a laugh "Unopened Yonezawa Tercel gate Tercel game Men's 5-stage conjugation course for girls You can play for 24 hours!" https://www.jauce.com/auction/s1011126335 https://www.jauce.com/auction/v1008131154

Nearly finished this bit, and the lid part is currently printing. Having a 3d printed core is 100% cheat mode for carbon stuff haha. It makes drilling/filing the holes super easy, because I can just work from the other side and shows me exactly how far I need to go (a few of the holes as pictured need a little more work with the dremel) Most of the work is sanding down sharp edges, I dont think I've experienced any splinters more ruthless than from CF. Definitely 100% do not want to get that shit in your eyes/lungs/whatever. Although I've got a setup that can do vacuum bagging and /or resin infusion, or making 2 piece moulds to make a 100% carbon part. Wet layup and retaining a thin printed core provides excellent results that is about 1000 times less effort. It's also nice because you can retain 3d features like upstands for clips or bolts or whatever, rather than being left with a super thin material that you then have to add stuff to. Which is another time consuming step where you could get things put in the wrong place. A++ would cheat again

Still work to do but super stoked with this

Test fitted ok but need to figure out the filter situation. Pod filter is easiest thing for now So on to version 3.0 to see how this fits And artists impression

I love those clips on the super tourer one

Time for an airbox to try stop the motor from inhaling 50,000 mozzies per hour. So started with a basic 2D profile. Found it hit where the bonnet rounds off a bit. Bought some play dough and smooshed it around the place to check clearance. Generally better than expected, have got 20-25mm to the closest brace part. So measured up the places I had to cut, then modelled V2.0 which is currently printing Once this is done, if it clears everything and there are no other issues. Then I need to decide how to divide it up into sections so I can still get inside to do up the bolts for the throttles. And then figure out what sort of air filter it's going to have, whether try jam a panel filter on it (probably makes sense given available space by radiator) or just transition to a round to jam a pod filter on there. Still a few iterations left to go until it will be a usable thing, but getting there. EDIT: Will be something like this

looks cool as! Man a passenger could accidentally wreak havoc though with some knob fiddling. Does the glove box lock? Or take good photos of all of the positions haha

I will have some considerably better options available to test on the day. However I'm still keen to see what it can do on a 185 with a bit of trickery.