Roman

Stop being provocative, he clearly doesnt like having a painted floor. Although he hasnt told us what sort of carpet he's going to put down instead Great work Sheepers this car is going to be absolutely ace. I look forward to seeing it some time.

Whoa! Looks awesome

Yeah that's a fair point. Itt looks a decent size in person. But looking up the car's that it fits, it's all fairly sedentary Peugeot stuff. It's 330x100mm with 50mm deep pleats. So it's still considerably considerably more filter area than nearly any pod filter I guess.

Found an easier option I think. Rather than running the super long wide filter, and having it directly over radiator. I guess it's easier to put it a little close to the motor, and then any flexi join etc that's needed, isnt critical to sealing filtered air in. I found this other filter in my bucket, which looks like a good size and means everything fits within my printer's width: So now I'm printing the front part to hold it on and dip it down a little. It looks like I've got more room around the radiator cap than I first thought, so will un-scoop some of that area. Might add some ridges that run front to back to add rigidity to the whole thing. But for now, make sure it all fits. Then figure out how much of a roof I can put on it, and how to hold it all together. This has been fun to make some fairly quick progress on for once.

Sounds good, cant wait to see it!

Cool, do they let you use the dyno at work for beams related activities?

Are there any more events coming up soon @Truenotch ?

What a hell of a thread to start skim reading

I have / had an Earth-X battery. Chose that brand because it had extra protections in it for short circuiting / overcharging / etc compared to some other options. But that was a while ago, they might be all same same now.

There's an old story, perhaps it's a wive's tale, I dont even know what sort of era it's from. But anyway. Someone developed some aero doodads for the front of the car or something, and the car was going really fast. When they bought the car into the pits, the crew would quickly go throw a blanket over the rear of the car. Everyone was so fixated with trying to see what was under the blanket, that no one bothered to see what was hiding in plain sight. What I'm trying to say is, if you make something in the engine bay out of carbon fiber, and then draw some titties on it. No one's going to look anywhere else in your engine bay

Thats a good way to approach it! So easy to get distracted by something else going on, and forget you havent finished doing something.

Another thing, and you'll have to excuse my hypocrisy because I've currently got a big lead acid battery sitting behind the passenger seat. Ha. But, when I had the battery mounted in the boot of the carina. When I switched to a lithium battery, which happily can crank over the V6. The battery weighed less than just the cable that I had removed to remote mount the battery. My lithium battery broke the terminal part from me doing stupid things with it, but plan is to buy another one and put it back in the bay. As it makes everything so much simpler, and its a lot lighter. Not that I'm guessing your tooooo fussed about weight given 4WD stuff added etc. But its also incredibly simpler with a lot fewer points of failure. Appreciate if you want the look of a clean engine bay though and want the battery out of there.

Main thing about voltage fluctuating is to make sure that your injectors and coilpacks are getting power from same-ish supply as the ECU. So if the ECU dips to 12.0v, your injectors are also seeing 12.0v so your deadtimes are correct. and to a lesser extent dwell time for coilpacks.

Sealing to bonnet: Have thought about that, but nah dont like that idea. As I doubt it actually seals very well. Like if I'm going to have an air filter, I want it to work 100% properly. So I can be confident of driving it on gravel etc. But it does make me think that I might mount the filter a little close towards the engine, hard mounted to the airbox. Then the front section over the radiator can be flexible without the flexi section risking ingress of debris if it has an issue. Alex - I cant use ramflo filters, because the extra torque would twist my chassis off the line

I guess probably easier to just buy those hood pins that are visibly "up" when not locked. Ahh well all good in hindsight. Bet that was scary having bonnet up like that!

Damn, sucks about the bonnet! I guess having some sort of "is bonnet shut" sensor or switch doesnt really help, because pins could still be out while the bonnet is sitting in its normal position. Seems inevitable to make this easy mistake eventually. Good work on the filter, I will award you max irony points if some swarf from making an air filter is what damages your motor finally. haha! Did you manage to do any testing on other trumpet lengths?

Maybe some wool tuft testing inside and outside

Wow, that's cool as! Sounds sweet. Yeah I am basically going to bin nearly the whole exhaust except for extractors and try some other stuff. Hoping to keep the noise down a bit.

Airbox activities. I wasnt sure how to start on this or what might fit with bonnet yet. So just start with making a base plate that clears the rails etc. Then the goal is to have a filter, or at least the air inlet. Running over radiator. Dipping into my bucket-o-filters i found this one which fills the gap pretty well. A few more top part tests then printed one with a flange on the front. So i can test the shape and start dipping it down. Mainly just need to work around the radiator cap area. It looks like i will have a pinch point to the bonnet about where the flange is. So decided to start making it wider as soon as the fuel rails finish. This is current scheme thats just started on the printer. Im not sure what the lid will look like yet, but will try use as much head height as possible. Im not 100% sure how I will make the final version yet. Possibly thin nylon print with carbon smooshed over the top.

You did it!

I've heard that the GT4 "T series" isnt quite same as any of the other T series things. Cant remember what was different, but the torsen center doesnt work in a regular T series rear for whatever reason.

Hey thanks for blanking it out, but I dont mind if people see the original information on the graph

Yep, gotta make it worthwhile for lighting up all 4 bags. haha

Yeah it was just the easiest thing to test and rule out first. But imagine doing it the other way, then doing that last and finding it's what made the difference. Would be gutted. haha. Here's some ethrottle skids

I havent really driven the car anymore, because I've had a clusterfuck of small inter-related issues which are causing things to not be fun. So firstly the bank to bank imbalance was a pain - So I went back to setting up double e-throttle. After a bunch of hours, and admittedly was very close to having it running good. I decided it was quite un-fun to try make my own ethrottle controller, so I am using a borrowed G4+ Xtreme just as a 2nd throttle controller. Ha. It's not doing anything except for actuating the throttle, and receiving throttle position target over canbus. So once this was all going. I tried adjusting each bank individually to try get lambda to match bank to bank. Still sucks, even when the motor is at steady state. Still got some other issues somehow. So I pulled the fuel rails off and printed a test rig to double check injector data. Yep it was all good, no issues. Sooooo what else could it be? Maybe individual throttle balancing. Ages ago I tried to print a little throttle balancer thingy, but my printer was acting up. But went back up the priority list. It's a little tube that I can plonk on top of each throttle, and it'll give me an airflow reading through a MAF that I've stuffed in there. Like so: This worked GREAT! My previous guesses with the screwdriver were massively wrong. On one bank, all 3 throttles were being fed air by only 1, back through the balance tubes. The other 2 throttles werent flowing any air at all through the throttle plate. It only took about 10 minutes to get everything balanced up, and now it's all matching a lot better, and idle is now really nice. I've just printed a version 2.0 that has a smaller internal pipe size so it pushes the voltage readings a bit further up the scale, so its a bit more sensitive. It works well enough as is, but not making much use of the range available. I will also add a capacitor to the output so it smooths the signal a bit. My ethrottle pedal that was from the Echo, has a weird pivot point height and pedal height when fitted to Carina. So it's quite awkward. But it's working at least. However I think I will try adapt the sensor onto the normal pedal instead. Hopefully now it'll start feeling like the car responds and acts a bit better when trying to dial in the fuel. Edit: some paddock tuning