Roman

Hey people. Thanks for the replies, hard to reply to multiple people on this forum now though in a single post! So to answer some queries - -No, I cant make the 'old' throttle body fit with an adaptor plate. This was the first thing I attempted, but there simply isnt the room to space the throttle body that much further forward and retain the necessary piping etc without hitting the radiator. -It is not possible to fit a TPS running the other way, not for wiring reasons but physical ones. The return spring only works one way and there's no way to push the TPS arms from the 'back' if that makes any sense. IT would need to be opposite hand, not mirror image for that to work. Or vice versa! -The OBD scanner is effectively read only, apart from clearing fault codes. There's no possibility to hard set TPS values, although the ECU effectively does this automatically to some extent. -Pickapart for correct TPS that turns the right way – non existant. -Adjusting the idle stopper so the ISCV works 'up' instead of 'down' – Spent some time going through this the other day, already done. Warmed the car up to a hot idle, then kept increasing the screw until it could no longer maintain a 900rpm idle after it settled. However in good news, I've got my tablet back so I can do some more diagnosis tonight, and comparisons of engine load values / tps etc / to my daily and see how they compare. Also, picked up one of these for super cheap and it's in the mail: http://www.hks-power.co.jp/usa/products/Pid=811_more.html I dont like how it adjusts MAF signal based on RPM alone, (As per every piggyback device, it would work better if it was more simply designed!) but it's specifically got provisions for fixing up a TPS signal. And it's really the 3ish thousand rpm zone where I'd need to increase the maf signal to pull out some ignition/vvti timing so I'm not relying on it too heavily to bodge things around. Will see how it goes, seems like it should possibly maybe help with both issues. I wouldnt use something like this if I didnt have the OBD unit for feedback loop though!

The throttle body that I am using is from an Altezza beams engine, which normally runs the electronic throttle body. I've disabled that so it's just completely actuated by the cable. But on account of the wizard magic that's normally in the throttle body housing, the TPS needs to be on the other side so it rotates in the opposite direction to usual. The FWD beams motor throttle body (to suit my ECU) is a little bit smaller and wont bolt to my plenum, and I cant swap the TPS over as it rotates in the opposite direction. (As per every other Toyota TPS that I've found...)

I dont want a bigger throttle body - but I have a bigger than standard one fitted, as it's a requirement of changing to a RWD plenum for my engine. The TPS on this throttle body runs counter clockwise (or the otherway compared to other Toyota TPS's) and seems to run across a lower voltage/resistance range than the factory one. As according to my OBD scanner the ECU thinks the throttle is only opening between 8% and 50%, checking with a multimeter confirms it looks to have a different resistance range. So the easiest solution seems to be to 'spread out' the voltage a bit so the OBD reads closer to correct. With a larger throttle body the accelleration enrichment isnt quite correct anymore, so ideally you need to add more air (voltage)at lower throttle angles. So changing from a linear angle vs voltage to non linear so it ramps up the voltage quicker (But stops at the same peak) would effectively simulate the standard throttle body as far as the ECU is concerned. Not a huge deal for the TPS and accelleration enrichment, but the first scenario, I dont know any other ways around it apart from bumping up the low load voltage. At the moment when my car is at very low load, (say cruising 80kph) the motor starts pinking. Also the car doesnt idle well currently, after cleaning and inspecting the ISCV it's all fine. But if I check in my OBD program, the ECU thinks that less than HALF the amount of air is coming in at idle, compared to what my Toyota Echo idles at. (5grams/sec in Echo, 2grams/sec in Carina) I've checked for post MAF air leaks and done some troubleshooting, but cannot seem to pinpoint it to anything. So whatever the MAF output voltage is when there's that miniscule amount of air coming through, I'd like to bump it up a bit so it's reading the correct signal which would correct the idle issues and also reduce ignition advance at low load to stop the pinking. Normally I'd expect the knock sensor to take care of that, but perhaps it's a harmonic deadzone knock sensor wise on account of some modifications to the engine etc. And it seems to point back to the MAF being the cause of the issue regardless.

Hey people, I've found a few instances where it would be handy to have a programmable magic box which can take an input 0-5v signal, and output a modified one. In the instance of installing a larger throttle body, since more air comes in at lower throttle openings you would want to change the linear 0-5v signal to start showing higher voltages quicker, so the ECU tips in the correct amount of fuel prior to the MAF or MAP sensor catching up. Also for my airflow meter, I would want to slightly bump up the signal when it's reading very low load, as it's advancing the ignition timing too far. I figure the easiest way to 'tune' such a thing would be to have two graphs side by side on a GUI on a laptop or something which could plug in via USB, and you can just drag a line on a graph for how you'd like both the input and output voltages to relate to each other. Or maybe select if the input vs output is linear, exponential, etc. Does anything similar to this, exist off the shelf already? Before anyone says "Get an aftermarket ECU you cheapskate" I could fix up minor issues with such a device for pretty damn cheap, compared to $3000+ for an installed and tuned ECU that acheives not much over the factory ECU apart from getting an extra 500rpm before my engine runs out of puff. Suggestions go!

Nice work! In my mind it makes sense to leave the camber tops for just camber though. There are already adjustable castor arms down the bottom, may as well keep the two adjustments seperate? It would make fine tuning a pain the ass if you just want to adjust camber and then end up removing/adding castor as well I reckon.

Hey people, We've got this towbar mount for my Dad's truck, that bolts onto the back of the chassis. However the problem is, that it's between 3-6mm too narrow to fit over chassis, as it was made for a *slightly* different model of truck. Bugger! We've been thinking about what might be the best thing to do, to get it modified to fit. In my mind the best option would be to cut the SHS on one side, and FWAR an oversized square piece of plate that's the thickness of how much it needs to widen by. However, it would offset the towbar position ever so slightly (meh) and perhaps look too modified/rangy to pass inspection (more of a problem) I guess it could square/butt weld an undersized plate in the same way so it looks more discrete, but it wouldnt be as strong. The rest of it is gussetted up pretty good, so dont see too many other easy options. What say you, talented fabricators of oldschool!? Also, anyone keen on a job for a few boxes of beer? lol.

Disagree with this bit, for an AFM car. Tuning via TPS or Alpha-N for big cams is your best option if you previously ran a map sensor. As with big cams you're not necessarily generating useful variations in vaccum anymore. However an airflow meter is placed ahead of vaccum, so it doesnt care what's downstream of it, it just measures the airflow coming into the engine. Which may be why some cams list as being fine for use with an aftermarket ECU. More air = more air measured, more fuel dumped in and less ignition advance. A map sensor runs calculations where the known VE of the motor with stock cams is part of the equation to ascertain the volume of air coming through, so changing cams can mess things up to a larger extent. Tuning by TPS / Alpha-N is a last resort if there arent any other options (like open quads)

Good to still see this car is still alive and well! That two tone paint though is... aaahhh... hmmm. Should paint the lower half black as well, will look awesome

Yep, definitely bringing mine! I'm booked in for an April trackday at Taupo, should be fun. Keen to hit up Hampton as well at some point

Good progress man! Will be good to see this out and about some time.

Just saw this thread, this thing is super sweet! Keep at it.

Hey man, I'd be super keen to see this thing out on track again! Was stoked that you gave me a ride along on the orientation lap for last years nats, still grinning when I think about how fun this car was. Should get a few guys together and hit up a Hampton trackday!

Seeing this turn up to the Display in Nelson, full of girls, with Rap music blaring out the windows... Holy shit that was amazing!

Nah fuck that. Low cars are unfun to drive, this is smiles per mile dialed to max.

Nah use oxo cubes.. same result, but you get some soup to drink while replacing gaskets

*UZA60 The bonnet sits pretty close to that top radiator support, are you sure that the bonnet is going to fit with that Radiator outlet sticking up that high? This one's a good shell with good panels. I wish you all the best but cant help but cringe a little when I see bits being chopped out already tbh. Especially if getting a different radiator ends up being the solution anyway. Be on the conservative side with that cut off wheel and good luck! Let me know when you're next at the shed and I'll come visit in mine some time soon. P.S. Dont pull off the outside window trim, ever ever ever.

Yes, but until now it's not been entirely clear how it functions. The hard limit each way is 20%, as per what I found in some OBD documentation and this also correlated with the fuel pump problems causing a 20% raise in injector duty cycle. Which was the upper limit. Of course, but it acts in a predictable way and I've now got realtime information as to what exactly it's doing. So not only could I plan modifications around how it operates, but I can also get feedback of exactly how it behaves in response. Rather than pumping assumptions into a magical box and hoping you're correct with no actual feedback. The way the fuel trim works based on observation is that it changes based on rpm and load, rather than blanketly smothered across the fuel map. So it effectively acts a secondary table that's plonked over top of the first one, with adjustment values for different areas of the map. So the net result is a +-20% allowance in injector size, apart from if running 20% smaller required over 100% duty cycle to not run lean. Yes, this is exactly what happens. I'm fine with that. Regarding the standard ECU thing, I've seen a few really clever ways to retain them and work awesomely. My favourite was a 5EFTE(?) powered starlet which was NA converted to turbo - They put in a new map sensor that had twice the pressure rating of the old one, and also fitted injectors twice the size. And the ignition was either mechanically controlled or retarded to suit... So the engine thought half as much air was coming in, so put in half the amount of fuel... Which turned out to be exactly correct. Some may say that's a bit of a bodge, but if it works well then it's actually pretty bloody clever!

And yeah ill chuck it on the dyno once ive had the exhaust redone. wideband in the tailpipe wont tell much with the current number of exhaust leaks haha. ive heard of guys with altezzas trying to use piggy back computers but then after a week its back to exactly how it was before when dynoed again. so its more than just adjustment at low load. and the long term fuel trim values i can see back that up too.

yeah that could be a good plan Ned. I just need to get the remote sorted to switch the camers off and on first though as its already awkward to reach. althouugghhh having it centred means you dont see one side of the windscreen looking bigger than the other with a wide angle lense which sooths my photo nerd ocd

God damn, it's good to be at the point of a project where you can start doing some fun stuff again! I took my Dad for a bit of a drive around yesterday, he's helped me out to no end on this project and so it was pretty cool to go for a drive and celebrate how far we've managed to come with it. I've got a trackday on April 14th at Taupo (All welcome, PM me for more details or see the thread in the 'upcoming events' subforum for more info!) So I've been trying to suss out what would be the best camera angle, which shutter speed and FPS works best, etc etc. My Decent microphone has run out of batteries so there's only some muffled doort noises from the onboard mono mic on my DSLR in this vid but just to get a bit of an idea: And with a time setup I took a few long(ish) exposure pics on the way back: Who needs a supercharger whine, when you've got my diff? lol. Looking forward to getting the exhaust remade so it's a little less raspy as well. I will work on getting some better sound quality, I've got a few tricks up my sleeve! I think I might mount a mic in the engine bay near the airbox, and have the right channel recording off the DSLR mic and the left channel from the engine bay. Or something like that, will have a bit of a muck around and see what works well. Generally speaking I think the most enjoyable in car videos are ones where you can see what the driver is up to, as well as being useful feedback for how you were doing things wrong later on. So might rejig the angles a bit so there's less roof and more gear shifter etc. I've got a pretty grunty spare tripod so I might get all 'Misery' on it and give it some different feet that wont move. So it mounts in the car nice and sturdily without any worry that I'm going to cop a DSLR in the face at 180kph if (when...) I spin out. discuss //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/21625-romans-cod-piece/page-6

Haha yep a lot better since then. Have fixed about half a dozen squeaks and rattles, handling much better, engine running a LOT better and the exhaust sounds better when the motor isnt running rough as guts. Getting exhaust redone this week so its got more ground clearance and sounds a bit nicer hopefully. Then just on to tidy up type tasks like fitting all of the external trim properly, hiding some wiring in the cabin etc etc. Feelsgoodman.jpg

New wheels are gonna look awesome! Nice that you can bypass the 4x114 tax

Cheers Richie! I've since eliminated 95% of the fuminess (put some carpet down in the back, replaced rear hatch seal, put some rubber bungs in some of the body holes) So it's much nicer, will take you for a dooort v2.0 some time soon.

Bahahahaha.