Scrubb

OK, so when I change the dash cluster and clock from my 1600 donor to the 1200 It's just a matter of unplugging and swapping the looms? I was under the impression I would have to replace the wiring throughout the car and splice a million wires which would make the purchase not really worth it for me. Probably better off finding another 1600cc car in that case? This info so far is very helpful, thanks.

Hi guys. I'm bidding on a 1200cc Lancer EX on Trademe, and my plan was to change all my bits (engine, gearbox/drivetrain, dash etc) from my crashed 1600 into the 1200, but I have just realised the wiring may be different so I can't use my old dash. Changing the wiring loom sounds like a huge job. I don't know. I've never needed to deal with the loom before. Is this required and how easy is it to do? If you know any more issues I may need to be aware of please let me know. Should I try and get my bid cancelled and look for a 1600 car instead or should it be fairly easy to achieve this? Thanks Stephan

Is most likely Aisan as my 1980 model EX has an Aisan carb

Damn, looks like I cant make this. I hope someone puts some pics up

Might try get to this. Will it be very FWD friendly?

My brother has a FWD 4G92 with auto box in his lancer if I can help with anything (measurements etc?) to help clear up some questions let me know..

Just bought the body, it had a 1600 manual in it. Its deregistered and has a couple holes in the floor and bit of rust by the windscreen, but shouldnt be too much of an issue to fix since I'm gonna do panel/paint on it anyway. The front is mint if I decide just to cut the front off and use that, so I'm pretty happy with it. I think it should be pretty straight forward to get it through compliance check and get new numbers ect, just money will be the issue lol

We dont do anything illegal around here..

I dont think the loom and transmission will matter? The shells are the same? This is a bare shell with absolutely NOTHING in it, no lights, carpet, wires or anything lol. I'm not sure if I remember body panels even lol That build looks exactly what I'm going to do, thanks for the link. Will have a good read of that when I get home

My mint Lancer EX got written off and has a bit of chassis damage at the front and my glovebox doesnt close properly anymore and I got told I could get it fixed, but no guarantees that it will be the same to drive and my glovebox might still be funny, so Ive decided I'm gonna get another shell and make it a long term project. Do full panel/paint and swap everything over and paint everything at the same time as I swap it over. Now what I would like to know is are there going to be any issues swapping my complete car to another shell and anything I should look out for before I start? I'm concerned about the interior plastic bits getting broken and things like hoodlining I might not be able to get correct. Also wiring troubles me.. Looking forward to your input

Ive bought quite a few things direct from Mitsubishi dealers. Pretty cheap too, but not much stuff is available, but always worth a try

Haha yeah we did that and thats how I found out its the bump stop, but only the left hand side..

Yup, I had a jack and sub/box in the boot, one person in the back and it was hitting when going into driveways ect lol Its definitely hitting on the bump stop. I'll try have a look during the week and see what I can find

I think EX lancers have a 4 link or similar setup with coils - no leafs. was it a 1600 or a 1200 to start with? heavier diff with same springs/shocks = more suspension movement? seems unlikely though. stuffed shocks maybe? is the car sitting any lower than before you changed the diff? missed out installing spring seats or something? It was a 1600 to start with and I was told it was from a 1600, and I'm pretty sure it is as it seems to run at the same rpm in each gear as it did before.. The car seems to be sitting about the same as before and mechanic told me my shocks are fine. Maybe need new springs? I havent had a good look at it yet cause I dont really know what I'm looking for or what I'm looking at Another thing I noticed is that its only banging on the left hand side.. Does this give any clues as to anything I should check? The only thing I can think of is maybe it was because my jack weighs like 45KG's or something and was sitting right at the end of the boot.. Before I changed the diff I had 5 people in the car towing a trailer and didnt notice any banging noises, but it could have been riding on the stops the whole time lol Any info or advice is always appreciated

I hope someby has some ideas on this.. Just replaced the diff assembly in my EX. Its just the standard one from 1600cc, but Ive noticed now when driving its hitting the bump stops even going over small bumps, but I did have my trolley jack in the boot and one person in the back, but Ive had 3 people in back and towed a trailer with no problems before I replaced it. When we did all the bolts up we did it with no weight on the diff, but was suggested to me to bolt it up with the cars weight on it but it would stress the bushes ect? I'm not sure thats correct.. Cant really take it out for a drive as it has no WOF atm so I'm looking for any ideas of what I can look at why its hitting the bump stops all the time???

Just measured the carb from 1980 manual. Couldnt get it accurate cause I couldnt get the middle piece off but I measured between 62 and 65mm

Sorry I completely forgot to measure it. I'll make sure I do it tonight for ya!

Ive got 2 carbs from 4g32 out of an EX. One is from a slightly newer model auto and the other is from 1980 manual and they're both slightly different. I'll take a quick measurement of both this afternoon for ya

Those 90's models Suzuki Swift GTI's seem pretty decent! Seen alot of guys get them to quite respectible speeds Fuel injected, 1300cc twin cam goodness and you can buy a chip to put in to make them even better! Used to have one of the crappy single cam 4-door models and that wasnt too bad till my bro rolled it

Does anyone know where I can get a starter motor reconditioned? It spins but the gear comes out real slow and I guess it doesent have enough oomph to engage as I can hear tyhe starter motor spinning but engine not turning over, but on the bench the gear come out ok but slowly.

I dont know how to help you but I know if you need any info on swifts/barinas try http://www.redlinegti.com/forum Such an awesome wealth of knowledge there! Good luck! EDIT: Fixed Link

My choke comes on and off fine. Those tools you have tortron might be a good start to figure out exactly whats bung and what isnt. You're still in hamilton?

Sounds good. How do we go about using those tools to tune it?

I want to get my carb and distributor rebuilt and tuned and I was wondering if anyone knows any recommended guys to take my car to in the hamilton area or somewhere kinda close. My car is a lancer EX with standard 4g32 engine and carb. I went to The Carby Shop in Frankton and they told me to, instead of rebuilding it to standard, to redrill the jets bigger as they run lean by default? Well I think mines running rich and he seems to think redrilling the jets on my standard carb would be better than a Weber jetted to suit? My distributor I want to get rebuilt because I was told the vacuum diaphragm is working but not holding vacuum? So I thought I might as well get it rebuilt and then I KNOW that the timing ect is advancing as it should.. Can I just pick this diaphragm part up from a mitsi dealer or Repco or something or will I need to take it somewhere to be rebuilt? For the time being I really just want my car to be standard, but run really nice like it should and not have any problems. Thanks for any input, info and advice would be much appreciated as I'm still learning this stuff..

Fuel's right, I have Aisan carb on mine.. (4G32b). Theres a tag under one of the screws with some numbers on it. I'm not sure weather thay're the model number or not, but can get the numbers for you if you want