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Spencer

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Everything posted by Spencer

  1. Spencer

    PAINT THREAD

    Yup you are hearing different thing because there is different systems and methods. For the home DIY guy using 2k urethane primer, you would have done all your block work and happy with it. Then a thin coat of primer on that and let it dry, wait to dry then sand back wet with say 6/800 clean it all down and you are good to top coat. Other systems are wet coat, you done the bog and block work and you bang a "sealer" coat of primer on and then once it flashes you paint the top coat. You have to be good enough to lay the primer on nice and flat though for wet coating IMO but its a big time saver in some body shop scenarios. Then there are others where the primer has a window to coat it without sanding, the primer stays chemically "sticky" for say 24 hours where you have a window to coat it without sanding. Option 1 for most of us though, sand before top coat we are not in the business of speed and production efficiency. Wet coating works great for engine bays, under the car, interior and all that shit where a bit of peel or dust in the finish doesn't matter.
  2. Spencer

    PAINT THREAD

    The dream is you do metal repairs and go straight to primer and done, not many of us have those kind of skills
  3. Mate which evercoat did you use? there are 20 types budget version through to mega fancy, was it Rage 3D gold? haha. (used 3M and upol also great) But yes the moral is go to a paint shop for all your gear not a parts store, otherwise you are using silverline brake pads (or worse) basically.
  4. Don’t use parts store filler either get some evercoat.
  5. The market and information is all fucked up for the hobbyist car painter. The professional grade manufacturers really don't want you using their shit, you will most likely use it wrong and its kind of a dangerous good. The parts stores can't really fork out 2 part paint to every retard so they sell cans of paint technology from years ago, there is no system, no real data sheets its crap. Add all that up and you have a toilet of information. Go watch what a body restoration guy will use, all 2 part products that we mention on old school twice a week. You can do everything with 2 part epoxy primer, seal metal, seal your bog (under and over) , you can wet coat it, you can brush it on, it doesn't sand very well but you can block out for a top coat on it if you wish. It doesn't have isocyanates like Urethane paint so its not deadly. It is the staple tool in doing any body work on a car. Etch primer is old as fuck, it doesn't seal anything, you do not bog on it. throw it in the bin.
  6. Two part filler will react with single stage etch primer and it will fall off in the future, trust me.
  7. You can bog over 2 part epoxy just fine, if you are buying a modern filler like evercoat etc it does not trap moisture and the data sheets say its fine to use on bare metal. Just epoxy prime it after you have done the work don't drag it out and leave metal and filler open to the world for ages. Either filler on bare metal or over epoxy primer, then seal it up with epoxy. If you use any single stage paints I will stab you, rattle cans go in the bin.
  8. Yeah lots of that is just that the stock K20 inlets works real well out of the box. There is like 8 different designs/lengths that move the power around for each application (heavy car gets long runners, type-R gets shorter etc). The aftermarket follows along with so called improvements and makes similar intakes that slam dunk into the factory position so its a easy bolt on type swap. It doesn't mean that is the optimal design, just works well for road cars and you can upgrade manifolds without changing everything else (drive by wire etc etc). The hard core race car or drag stuff still end up with ITB's which end up with a big carbon box feeding air from the front of the car. People do get gains from larger throttle bodies as they mod K20/4's which are on the end of the plenum so the plenum opening does become a restriction at some point. There is also the RSP manifold off the FN2 type R which has a larger plenum. From what I have seen it still just moves the power around due to the runner lengths like the others. (hard to find a good photo but I think below someone has polished and fitting thermal gaskets)
  9. Bunch of motogp bikes have variable inlet runners from a quick google if thats it? looks pretty much exactly like the old F1 ones before it was canned. As we said somewhere they have small rev range and high rpm so don't have to move far. (pic is road bike promo version I think, the might be just two step to lazy to look)
  10. Nothing worse than a oversized and old holley carb, throw it in the bin. Ask Bort about opportunity cost and sunk cost fallacy.
  11. Spencer

    PAINT THREAD

    Yeah never buy any body work gear from the auto chain stores, they just sell you crap and don't give a fuck. Go see you local auto paint shop get something like evercoat (lite-weight or rage) its the shit. With the good stuff you should get basically zero shrinking, sands like a dream and no pin holes.
  12. Spencer

    PAINT THREAD

    Go watch old hotrod garage, Boyd had some high class paint guys in there at different points in time and they skim bog whole show cars to get them perfect lol.
  13. Spencer

    PAINT THREAD

    Hammer and shrinking first if you can. Then bog it up, then high build only for blocking to make it super slick not to fix problems. Bog is pretty fancy these days and isn’t the devil.
  14. Spencer

    PAINT THREAD

    I used others before PPG and Spies, just costs twice as much and for the hobbyist I don't think you gain much going to the baller stuff. Ask the guy at the counter? they wont fuck you around. Whats are you doing? going over epoxy to block for top coat? pretty sure you want this one if you actually need the high build side of things. Its super thick shit, they have another carmaster one that is thinner. https://www.protec.com.au/images/uploads/tech_data_sheets/CP-6120_CARMASTER_2_PACK_HI_BUILD_PRIMER_FILLER_Carmaster_Primer_16-05-16.pdf
  15. Spencer

    PAINT THREAD

    Pretty much get everything from protec? I used their high build urethane a bunch of times for blocking, you can mix it as high build or as a regular thin coat. They are basically the cheap brand but still sell legit automotive paint systems.
  16. Pressure while driving is nothing to do with it really, pretty much everything has fine pressure off idle unless the pump has exploded. I thought the bottom end had been built. So its just a ghetto rebuild with no resizing or measuring how round it is? the low pressure will just be that pretty much. I mean I hope you find something simple like the pump bleeding pressure somewhere or whatever. But I have never had any success with new bearing shells on old bottom ends.
  17. Hmm yeah I would not be happy with a rebuilt 4k that had low pressure at idle. I have owned a couple and they had shit loads of pressure at idle they have pretty good oiling systems. But they will drop when the bottom end wears out like most things. I would spew at running anything thicker than 40w on a rebuild TBH, what were the measurements like on the bottom end? Whats the gauge say? how hot was it? A sharn for contrast, with my old Buick 455 that has a terrible oiling system designed by some barries from the 60's it started flicking the oil light. Gauge showed like 5-7psi which happens on these donks, shimmed up the oil pump (its in this gross old alloy housing that melts) and that got me a few PSI but it slowly got worse. Pulled it down and sure enough huge clearance on the bottom end, had a ghetto rebuild at some point. Fast forward throwing all the money at it and line boring the bottom end to get it back to the factory clearances which are pretty tight. Bam 40psi at idle which drops to like 25-30psi after 30min of driving once the oil was actually hot, running synthetic 30w also. You kinda needed that idle oil pressure or almost no oil was going up the pushrods to the rockers when sitting around in traffic etc.
  18. Nothing like some chains to bring out the Barries. Oh and A+ project, definitely fun to follow the updates.
  19. Spencer

    PAINT THREAD

    Yup as above. Strip disk and wire wheels, makes a huge mess and noise but it works. Big fan of paint stripper on paint and then mild acids on rust just because no noise and dust. Although if you have 2k paint or thick primer etc the paint stripper will struggle. If you are lucky and it’s factory laquer or enamel it will jump off the car with fuck all work.
  20. K24! Looks like a ballache unless you have a LHD Miata though.
  21. Yeah if you get one off a v8 car with the flex plate and converter then you are good. The only tricky part I guess is setting up the cable correctly on your carb or throttle-body but there are lots of kits for that on summit etc. Pulled one out of a V8 VN and bolted it up to a 350 all good.
  22. Then it will just break when you pull it off next time. Drill them holes.
  23. I had a alloy pulley set on my old accord euro k24, no issues. They are widely used. Don't have one on current car but would love to test it out. I do not think these crank pulleys are actually a engine saving dampener on a internally balanced 4 cyl engine (this is a old debate on the internet). You could get various older hondas with solid pulleys stock, B16a etc. The video above is a advertisement to buy a pulley. Below video is the reverse advertisement I guess.
  24. There are pretty cheap alloy underdrive crank pulleys for K-series out there either china or more legit ones from USA. Might be something to look into if the alternator rev problem is a thing to be worried about, shave some rotating weight at the same time. Love the build also, forum needs more K-series.
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