Spencer

It only took like 30 years to figure out the best 4AG combo with data haha. Turns out its a AE82 bigport of course

So basically run the A43L (or whatever the code is) if you can find it, the manual valve body with overdrive and lockup. Or if you want to step into the future (like 1991) then run a A340 which comes in many flavours and can be run by a aftermarket controller or even a mircosquirt etc now days.

Yes so a few versions of the electronics on those, the early more primitive version on early stuff (z10,x60 etc) is ghetto and using this big stepped TPS that outputs different levels to the controller. Then a more modern controller in the X70 stuff. The controller is separate from the ECU so could be standalone and if you dig hard enough you will find explanations on how in works and wiring diagrams in a mix of workshop manuals (used to always be a celica manual online etc). Have messed around with these in a attempt to use them as the cressida boxes were everywhere and the manual shift ones with overdrive were more rare. But never got that far as CBF rigging up a TPS etc.

Guess depends what paint you are wet spraying currently? I think in industry its the same as car tech, you go to two part epoxy primer and two part Urethane top coat (you can buy industrial versions of these paints from automotive places). Epoxy primer has the best adhesion and Urethane is flexible and UV resistant. Knew a dude whos whole gig was blasting and painting cranes using that process. Maybe I am off but that's what I have seen. Its the same paints for pretty much everything you want to last (2pac epoxy+urethane) factory floors, home garage floors, cars everything. Its currently the best paint tech for durability.

Its a old ECU on a lower spec car, newer ones have better systems to pick up a faulty sensor. A shitty O2 sensor also is a go for fuel usage on 4ages sometimes. You should be able to find a manual (they are bundled with the 4AG ones which exist on the net) and trouble shoot the various ECU things pretty easy, if you find a factory manual it will have some flow charts on what to check first for excessive fuel usage.

Hmm I have been in a couple 700r4's and they seem sweet as? just a 350 with a overdrive and cable control, buy the cable bracket kit for your carb set it up and off you go? The move is probably a T400 and gear vendors overdrive box if you have the cash.

Amayama are buying/onselling off OEM's direct in their home countries. They are stuck with database updates from OEM's (who don't give a shit about old parts), I buy lots of Honda shit for the daily from them and the stock listings are mint always get what you want at 1/4 local prices. OId mate rockauto controls the stock so they should have a tip top database.

Yup I would have a practice before doing it again on anything important. Usually it goes on pretty thick and the only thing that fucks it up is the cold/damp, anything below like 15 degrees will slow it down lots IMO. But 4 days is pretty extreme. In warm weather you should be able to sand that stuff on the same day and it should really always set hard in the pot overnight.

Yeah a few cam swaps I have messed with on bucket setups you bang them in and magically it all works out fine measurement wise. I don't know much about cams but I would guess that good aftermarket ones have base circles similar enough to stock that it stays in spec

Dunno are F1 ports dimpled? not the old ones you can see IRL. Paint/stickers were smooth also. Im sure we will see the result on garage 4age soon, dimpled bigport owns smallports.

Strip disc and wire wheel time.

Some old paint seals up mint under epoxy primer (almost all old factory paint I have messed with is fine). If it’s real shit and reacting it probably needs to fuck off anyway. Start grinding

Yeah and after that you have to be some kind of race car engineer type to know about the flow through the ports and how that effects combustion chamber mixing and all that. In general though Yamaha tried and eneded up back at 4v per cyl with racing things probably for a reason. A good blacktop 20v goes hard for what they are though etc.

Yes I have heard many a barry yarn that they need bigger valves, not sure but didn't think there is much room for that carry on.

Not many 80's auto hiaces around anymore. Best bet to just hit-up and call every wrecker in Australia that has old shit. All of them will have done 300,000km

Yeah what engine etc. Some will be harder to track down a bell-housing that others. People threw away the A43 etc autos like crazy but they are pretty good units, a overdrive and lockup version without computer control being the holy grail.

We have a exhaust on this yet? eat up those 4ages with all those exhaust side gainz.

The old shit is Butyl tape stuff I think, can be replaced with urethane 100%

A pro will use a urethane based widow sealant. You can do the rear windows with the urethane, there is a art to getting it nice and not all squish out. You can use bits of foam shit to get it all sitting in the right place.

They run a normal Toyota shit, if its from the 90's then A340 and if its older then the A43 etc. Bellhousings hard to find most people have made something to use other boxes.

Edit what Torton says look at the data sheet. The urethane primer I used you wet sand to 600 or whatever, much nicer than dry. Assume we are talking urethane primer?

Yes if you want it to be smooth. It will stick all the way to like 600/800 is the norm I think, don't think I have ever used over 400/600. It would stick well enough even if you just scuffed with scotch brite and painted.

Its all garbage! Rust primers suck at rust converting and suck at being a primer. Worst of both worlds. Same for weld through primer, chuck it in the bin. 2 part epoxy holds heat better and burns off less if you let it cure 24/48h. Just rename the thread to buy some 2 part epoxy primer and apply to clean abraded/acid washed metal thx.

Anyone actually tested these single part rust primers? like put them outside and then sand them back? or sand them back at all? the 2k epoxy primer beats them all.

Brunox has worse adhesion than 2k epoxy primer by miles. Why would you put a inferior product under the 2k epoxy when you can remove the rust with abrasion and acid?