~Slideways~

I've had this about 4 years now, previously I had three (well two and a half) BJ73's Landcruisers that got bash to hell off road. Awesome fun. They were, in order powered by VN V6, then a 3B diesel, then a 13B-T diesel of non-rotary spec. I then bought a modified 1990 Nissan Safari, because I wanted something with coil springs. I then proceeded to redo almost everything on it and got it certed. Everything as in: Changed springs, changed shocks, changed turbo, remade downpipe, fixed exhaust manifold, made 3" exhaust, fixed seats, fitted drop boxes to fix steering, fitted extended trailing arms to fix shit, changed tyres, changed wheels, rewired lights, rewired relays, fixed locker solenoid, replaced terrible cross over pipe, made steel sidesteps, basically to do everything properly! I'll post up some historical photos later, currently I'm working on fitting this ST205 w2a intercooler:

testing...

High fill primer: Getting there!

Sounds like the exact same thing though, except maybe that he started with 320? And without the fine filler to stop sanding through. Looks to work well in the video so are you saying the filler isn't necessary or will some how make it worse? If so, the 'gunman' needs to be told of the poo to face punishment.

This one:

There is a way to sand down runs by covering the whole area with body filler. Then when you sand the filler away, the run is the high spot under the filler, so once you sand through the filler you should get to the run and it should evenly sand down to the rest of the paint. It would still be pretty easy to sand through the paint accidentally though. Disclaimer: saw it on youtube.

More removing of crappy roof paint, its like rubber but doesn't peal off. You can kind of see it on the edge where where I was using paint stripper. Gone: Lots of shallow dents here: Factory weld/braze: Looks less finished the more I work on it! These 'Dura Block' sanding blocks with stick on sanding paper is an awesome combo:

New bits don't look too bad! https://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID008743

Rust, so much rust. But it looks possible right? Will feel good to have new metal in there and covered in POR15 all over your hands.

The seats look awesome!

Yep agreed, great write up. Not many people take the time to do this since Facebook came along and most forums died off. (Note: FB is a fcking awful alternative to forums).

Something like this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Underdash-Heater-12V-Heat-w-3-Speed-Switch-for-Car-or-Truck-4-port-/112270123749

OK so the SAFC is working, I can change fuel percentage at idle and see the AFR's change, as well as hear the engine note change. Not sure if the Knock reading is working, will recheck that. The weather has been wet so I can't test drive with primered rear quarters that want to suck up water. So I've bought some White Autothane paint, primer, thinner, filler, mixing cups, filters, proper mask etc etc. I've welded up the Aerial hole, wiper hole and high stop light since it is covered by the wing. Lots of sanding etc. Sanded rear quarters, yay sanding. Don't have to worry too much here since it's covered by fibreglass panels. Finally got the damn tail lights out, they were silicon sealered in there and I couldn't get to it. But finally off after making a weird shaped knife blade and some levering to break the bond. Surprisingly didn't break the lights, cool. The roof has been painted with terrible black paint, no prep and looks shit. So I took it back as far as I could with the orbital sander, dust every where. Love sanding. But the original paint underneath wasn't in good condition so time for the paint stripper. Fck off shitty paint: Started sanding rear: Primered overfenders, used special primer for fibreglass. The colour is actually pretty cool, would look good with clear coat.... Also trimmed the rear fibreglass arches because wide wheels are wide: Where it will sit until ready to paint:

New filter in and now its running much better, not leaning out but its now bucketing in fuel, so need to sort out SAFC wiring. When I took the filter out I blew fuel through both ways and a lot came through so I thought I needed to get back to the drawing board. To confirm I cut it open, holy fckn fck.... I didn't think to change it because it looked brand new, it looks like it was actually old and already on edge clogged. Lesson learnt though. I bought two new filters so I can change it again after some km's.

After a couple of tries the fuel tank leak is fixed, the o-ring was definitely expanded so didn't sit right but then it still leaked with the new o-ring. After a lot of stuffing around I realised that the seat that the o-ring sits in wasn't perfectly flat so one area was lower than the rest so didn't form a good seal. So finally took it for a quick test drive and its still leaning out as soon as I get a little boost. Couple of ideas: - fuel filter could now be blocked. I've removed and yes it was dirty, but not sure its enough. Will get a new one anyway. - TPS might need resetting, I removed it to get the throttle body tig welded. It was marked beforehand and put back on by the guy doing the welding. But it seems to drive totally fine until boost...so not quite convinced of this. - Brand new Walbro could be a dud? I've had it for too long to have a warranty I think. Annoying. I did however get the tacho working from another feed, weird that it didn't work straight from the 'tach' labelled wire from the ignitor. Also started wiring in the Apexi SAFC II, so far it powers up and shows me revs. Haven't wired in MAF and knock sensors etc because I wanted to know what it did before adding another variable.

The second set of 540cc injectors arrive over the weekend so I professionally cleaned them: Checked for sameness: Also used a multimeter to do a resistance check on all 8 ST215 injectors, they were all the same which is nice. Also the same as the old JZX100 injectors, not sure what this really proves... So I went ahead and installed them, checked for leaks and it started up first try, fckn yay. Idle'd perfectly fine, rev'd it a bit and saw a bit of black smoke which I was expecting. The battery had been disconnected for a few days which might explain why the AFR's were super rich at idle with 10.6:! But it then surprisingly sorted itself out, whether it was just cold start rich, I'm not sure but when it was warm it idled at around 14:1 which isn't much different to the standard 370cc's. Next was to test drive it to see what the AFR's did under low boost, but I then found a fuel leak from the rear. Which turned out to be the fuel tank o-ring which looks to have expanded so it doesn't sit right. Have now ordered a new genuine one, for fcking $51.11 11 cents!

I have a spare R200 and S13 subframe you can measure. Also, come pick up that driveshaft!

Buy LS400, smear Mustard on it. Job done, already has your engine and the subframe fits.

Picked up a set of four 540cc ST215 Caldina GTT injectors over the weekend. They are a perfect fit, same size and same plug. Yay. Just waiting on the other set to arrive from CHCH, so I'll have a 8. I'm going to DIY clean them and check spray pattern, test resistance etc to see if they are all the same. The others should arrive today or tomorrow. Found the Apexi SAFC II I bought years ago, it was in the laundry of course. Have downloaded manual PDF for wiring and tuning etc.

GTR 's are +30 I sold a pair a while ago. Because 5 is 5.

Evidence it moved: Engine bay, some stuff is still temporary: My washing line:

So I drove this for the first time, to test stuff. Mostly check for noises and AFR's etc. I need more wheel clearance at full lock, which is going to be interesting. The wastegates weren't wastegating, turn out that a T-piece I used had a tiny restrictor, removed that and the 7psi springs seem to be around 0.6-0.7bar, which is better. AFR's are fine at that low boost, until higher revs (unsure how high since no tacho yet) where it starts leaning out, so I'm going to fit some 540cc injectors and control them with an Apexi SAFC II which I already have. Gearbox feels good, clutch release bearing is a bit noisy, the clutch might need upgrading but with the quick test drive it was hard to tell. Factory injectors are only 370cc so 540cc is a 50% increase which should be ok to control with the SAFC, I wanted a smaller increase but Supra 440cc are side feed which is annoying. So I'll see how it works out with 540's. A Link and ID1050's are the later plan but that's a $5000+ job since I need to control VVTi.

Yep. There is even a mosquito embedded into it for more redness. It will most likely be the basis for Jurassic Park 10.

Tested out new compressor by painting the deck of the the race car trailer. It came out well and the compressor keeps up easy. I still need to sand the sides and draw bar before painting that and it'll be all nice and red. This is after two coats:

Another coat: That was with my cheapy 40L Blackridge 2.5hp compressor which can't keep up with the HVLP spray gun. So I bought this for when I do this outside (a couple of cars to do): Its 3hp, 15cfm, Ingersoll Rand pump on an old Hindin 270L tank. ALLL THE CAPACITY!