~Slideways~

Update, tyres are noisey as fck

Lol my soft top has holes in the rear window, would have been swimming. Without the hardtop, love the hardtop glass too, it’s a much wider opening. Those wheels really suit it, are they some kind of turbo fan thing?

Have been driving this to work everyday which involves the twisty bits along the water by Whitby, which is fun if not much traffic. The car had the standard 14” wheels with Supercats. Which are actually surprisingly okay in the dry. But I can feel them letting go in the wet if cornering too fast. On another project I have some 15’s with Achilles 123’s which are pretty old but I’d like to see what they are like, they are technically semi slicks but cheap ones. They fit the mx5 pretty well, I’ll see what they feel like tomorrow on the way to work.

Definitely worth checking, although the misfire thing can happen at part throttle like on the motorway sitting at 100kph for a few minutes and its fine then with no change at all, it just happens and goes away by itself. I'm hoping its going to be something simple like a bad earth or the bad sense wire. Or even if the new alternator is stuffed, at least I'd have an answer.

Thanks guys. Really appreciate the extra eyes on trying to figure this one out. Just had some time now and the first thing I checked is the sense wire on the alternator plug. Pulled back the covering and the sense wire outer layer has split! The inner core looks ok so may not actually be a problem. This plug and three wires I had kept from the donor jzx100 body loom. One of the only plugs on the engine I didn’t replace with new. The core of the wire looks ok, I hoped it would be obviously corroded but it isn’t. Im going to buy a new plug and pins and cut the wire back to some fresh stuff. This plug is brittle like most old Toyota ones are. It may not be the issue but it needs sorting out anyway. It is currently getting its sense power from a shared constant power wire which is original to the Nissan chassis. I’ll try wire it directly to the positive cable from the battery in case there is some resistance giving it incorrect voltage and making it over charge. It’s worse now that I have removed the pin. Also fitted a turbo beanie thing:

I have emailed the logs through, so depends if they can be opened. I have been logging to a laptop so I can pull over and look as soon as I notice the problem, I'll check tonight to see what the default settings are and if I can log more parameters.

Man this is so cool, the engine fits in there so nicely. It'll sound awesome with those ITB and the already cool K exhaust note. ps...wanna trace the adapter? haha

Yeah definitely, send me a PM with your email. Unsure what mjrstar did to get around the encryption but I can look at it again after work. I think I will need to create another log as the default settings may not have captured everything.

Yep, I wired in the two factory knock sensors. I don't think they are currently doing anything though.

No definitely not, you might be looking at the part of the log where I turned the ign off then on for a few seconds while still moving at the 20min mark. I was in road works with nowhere to pull over. Just before that point I was engine braking for a couple of minutes around 30-40kph down hill in slow traffic when I noticed it sounded wrong. So I decided to test if ign off and on would fix it, which it did. This is strange because the ECU would have still been on since it has ECU hold power enabled. It idles really nicely hot and cold, the stepper motor works as it should. Target is 900rpm and when at operating temp I'm sure last I checked it was within 50rpm. Another theory about the voltage I have is that apparently a cold alternator can charge higher until it has warmed up (the internet tells me so). Which can explains why the voltage was high in the 8min log (start of drive to work) then in the next 30min log it was all up to temp and the voltage is mostly 14.8-14.9v. I will check the sense wire and see what I can find. Previously I took it for a drive after moving the MAP sensor to point the inlet downwards and had zero issues on a 25min drive at night. Including full throttle fun corner stuff as well as 100khp motorway driving. That was at night so would have had the headlights on and maybe the heater. This could support the voltage being the problem since it might have been enough draw to keep it below 15v?

Didn't realise it would be encrypted, I guess the Link support guy just knows how to get around it. Re: the voltage. This is a worry, I put in a brand new alternator not that long ago (well 'remanufactured in Japan' from NST and it wasn't cheap). But in saying that, I have mainly been looking at the big 30min log file and in that file its pretty consistent around 14.8 getting up to 15.2v for some reason. At the time of the log where I know it was misfiring/running rough I can see its at 14.8ish for the whole time. Either way 15.2v is high... and is actually out of range for the inj and coil settings (think the tables only go to 15v) I wonder if maybe there is a problem with the sense wire to the alternator? Or the regulator is not doing its job. I also saw the 18V max reading in the ecu statistics but scrolling through the logs I can't see it doing that in either of them. Unless is for a split second. Strangely in the shorter 8min log that was before the engine got up to temp and I can see the voltage is worse here. It's at 15.5v or so a lot of the time. You might be onto something!

The logging was at default settings so maybe it doesn't, I'll check tonight when I can open the file.

Re: the MAP fault/going way out of calibration, all I have done is remount it so the inlet is facing downwards, just in case that was a moisture problem. I didn't see any moisture in the line or sensor when I took it off though. It has been offered to send the MAP sensor down to Link to test, but I have not had it go out of calibration since. So unless I can catch it in a log I don't think its going to get me anywhere. The MAP appears to be reading okay during the misfire behaviour. It's really bugging me because when it is happening it isn't effected by load at all, I've only ever had it happen at part throttle cruising or no throttle at all. It has never happened under hard acceleration, but that could just be luck (EDIT: to clarify if it is already misfiring, more or less throttle does not stop the misfire).

Yep, I sent two logs to Link support, one log you can see where I shut the ign off and on to fix it and there doesn't appear to be anything out of the ordinary before that. Well not that I can see and the Link support guy too. But in saying that, how would a faulty coil show in the log? (if it is a coil).

Still chasing this intermittent misfire thing. I have not had the weird MAP sensor reading wrong problem again though. I drove it to work a week or so ago and during the 30min drive it did it twice. Once within 5min of home just turning at a round about which lasted about 40 seconds until I pulled over. Then again 20min later engine breaking at 40kph in the road works going down Haywards Hill. I turned the ign of and on again and it was fine again. I have checked all pins on the coils and the MAP sensor. All are fine and locked in place, there was a suggestion that the pins could be loose. On that 30min drive to work I had logging running. I sent that to Link support and they said they couldn't see anything, they then suggested to check the crimp in the sensor ground wire which is near the ecu (comes like that from Link). I have visually checked this and it doesn't look loose but I have not removed the heat shrink yet. Then next thing I will try is check all of the ECU grounds to the engine block. I drove it home and it was perfectly fine for 28min. Then 2min from home it sounded like it wanted to be a WRX, but it went away within a few seconds. I wonder if I maybe need to buy a spare R35 Coil and try swap one at a time.

My wife gets regular migraines, knocks her back for 3 days usually. All kinds of drugs etc and no answers. Sucks man.

Its mounted like this up on the firewall, so I guess its possible moisture could be in it and not able to drain out? Inside the hose looks totally dry though. I also did a quick test of the voltages on each wire unplugged and ign on. Ground and 5v feed wire = 4.95v Ground and signal wire = 0.05v Signal and 5v = Pretty sure this was 4.95v but it was pretty late last night so I'll double check.

I've tried finding one locally but haven't found one to test yet. I've just posted up on the Link forums for any advice. I can't think of how the wiring could be bad, but maybe? EDIT: it is mounted high up on the firewall, I had assumed it would be water proof, the plug has water seals etc. I doubt it could have gotten wet, but its possible.

Been having this weird intermittent problem which feels like it isn’t running on all cylinders. But it happens at strange times like just cruising at 50kph or even on the motorway. I can push the clutch in and it even runs rough under no load. Then it just goes away and doesn’t do it again for ages (like 30min drive home). It goes really well otherwise, no issues under hard accleration. All temps are fine and so is oil pressure. I have checked all of the coil plugs and mounts, the injector plugs and taken spark plugs out (they are pretty much new). It starts no problem even when freezing cold or hot. Just now I took it for a test drive and it seemed fine then less than 10min into it at a 50kph round about the revs dropped and it felt like it didn’t want to idle. Gave it some more revs to be able to pull over, It struggled then it came back again Like nothing was wrong. Turned it off and on again because I work in IT. Then it idles fine. Turned on logging since I had the laptop with me and it all seemed fine. Then after 20seconds of idling the engine just died and it refused to start. checked logS and the map signal had shot up to 28psi from 4ish (just idling). Checked fuel map and with engine off the map signal is well into boost. Obviously wrong. tried to recalibrate it in PCLink and it failed saying it is out of range. i have seen it do this once before and fixed it by unplugging the map sensor. Back in pclink and it is sitting at atmospheric pressure again. Drove it home and it ran totally fine. All I can think of Is a voltage issue or a faulty map sensor? a bad sensor would explain all of the problems. But the fact it’s totally fine and runs really well most of the time is weird. Has anyone seen a similar problem? Its a Link 3 bar map sensor and Link g4+ storm black.

Probably said this before but, amazing job and so thorough.

My Safari failed initially, still with factory single pot fronts. I fitted better pads, I think they were bendix "4wd"? It's going back a bit. Also I did a bunch of testing with getting the rear brakes to work correctly with a bracket I'd made to lift up the arm to match the suspension lift. Pretty sure I also put in some 600 degree boiling point brake fluid. A few years later they felt terrible, tracked it down to a leaking clutch boost and failing vacuum pump. Blocked off clutch booster and fitted new alternator/vacuum pump and it's really good again. That was cert'd on 33's and it's pretty good. Would probably need more of an upgrade when I put on 35's.

Cool, thanks I'll have a look at it and see if I can get the bearings etc off.

The door handle/arm rest is right up against the seat so feels a bit cramped. Removed it and made a little strap thing. Way more room now and can turn the window winder handle without awkwardly reaching around the door handle.

Its a 9555hn, how much do you think it should cost versus a new one?

Pretty sure it was 9555something, will confirm.