sheepers

yea that changes things a bit. that photo is before repair i take it? tbh the repair looks pretty good, couple of gas holes in the surface which isn't too bad, tells you that 99% of the weld is homogenous and bonded to the parent fairly well. i still reckon it would be OK.

unless there's a bolt hole in the end that you cant see in the photos id say its not to bad. where the corner of the post bit comes down into the casting looks pretty un touched and that's usually where the stress would show itself. just fuckin cert it cunt.

you were right! i shouldn't have read that.

New toyota can belt, tensioner and tensioner bolts and it's back together and running. Still have no idea why it skipped the cam belt but it did.

And just like that, dash 10. There are some (many) clearance issues but I'm pretty sure I can overcome them. Mostly. Pickup will need to be moved/modified to suit 4M sump but I don't have a spare 4M sump so I'll have to fit that when I actually pull the other engine out.

Yea cheers for that. Tbh this car isn't exactly going to be setting lap records anywhere but a couple of baffles in the sump can't hurt as you say. 5M pump is radically different to 7M. 7M left. Oil outlet back of motor and steel tube pickup pointing towards the rear 5M right. Oil outlet front of motor (4M sump won't clear crossover pipe) and cast pickup which is front/mid sump which also won't clear the sump.

Oil pump. Finally found a 7M pump. that would allow me to mod the pickup and the crossover pipe to sit the 4M sump. I had almost everything I needed to run a dash 8 hose for the crossover pipe but I could also, If I bought everything, fit a dash 10 in there. Bigger is always better especially when it comes to the main oil feed so dash 10 it will be. Need to make the relief spring spacer but that's no drama. Still haven't figured out triggers for the ecu yet.

Also I made this. It's a corner shelf for the shower. Currently there is a tiny shelf thing which is worse than useless and gets drenched whenever the shower gets used to soap gets turned to mush very quickly. It's made it is some bits of ali angle and chanel I had.

Was driving home from work yesterday and I came slowly coating to a stop at a red light. As I was sitting there the car stalled as the light went green and I went to take off. Weird, cranking resulted in what was obviously something wrong, it was cranking with a weird rhythm and wouldn't start. So me and the wife towed it the 4ks home and I started trying to figure it out. End result is that somehow the cam belt jumped a couple of teeth. Like how the fuck did it do that? Seriously it was idling, nothing looks wrong but the tensioner does feel a little weird when I compress it and release it. Is not like any of these parts are old. Fucked if I know, anywho I might as well put a new belt and tensioner in it. I don't actually know if this engine is an interference motor or not, obvs stock jen one UZ aren't but this has kelford SC cams in it and I can't remember if they make it interference or not. I didn't hear anything at the time but the radio was on and from past experience when the pistons just kiss the valves they don't actually make a lot of noise. I'll get new parts, put it back together and do a compression test I suppose.

who's this camel guy? ^^^^

Simply add 4 cubes of garden mulch and hey presto! Raisedish garden bed.

So, thinking about it I can do cam angle really easily. There is a hole in the side of the block and just inside that hole is a shaft that spins exactly half the speed of the crank for some reason. I can attach some sort of "trigger" to that shaft and a pick up of some sort to "see" that "trigger". The crank however might be a bit more difficult. And it goes without saying that i want to hide it so its not obvious

Did a bit more. Pistons in and rotating assembly all together. Spins freely which is a plus. Went to put the lay shaft in and things went wrong. Front bearing was to small. It was size for size which wasn't going to fly. So with the aid of some CNC (completely not in control) machining I opened the bearing ID up to the correct size. All gravy. I need to figure out how I'm going to make a crank angle sensor happen as well as cam too at some point. Unno how to do that tbh, do i even need both? Do you still need both to run sequential injection and ignition? Fuck i dunno these days. anywho, I'm piecing the garbage back together.

I built a retaining wall so we can back full it with dirt and make raised vegetable garden. Is 9.5m long and 400 high. I buried the posts 400 deep and rammed the back fill into the holes around the posts with a sledge hammer. Fucking tell you what, the rammed earth round the post is like setting the bastard in concrete. Missing image - topsoil. Yet to come.

na, its a 7m block. i had to machine the nose of the 7m crank to get the 5m cam drive to work but the bottom end is all 7m.

the hive mind decided that I should use the squirters, so in they went. Then I put in the crank and torqued it all up. It still spins which is a bonus. I also got all the pistons and rings assembled. Turns out when you buy expensive pistons made for a specific size bore the rings come with the right gaps. I checked every single one and they're all perfect.

It'll be sweet, just gonna fucking send it.

Everyone's opinions are worthy my man.

Oh and just to be clear the pistons should make it about 13 to 1 CR so it'll make a bit more heat at the top end.

Na, I just wanted some other perspectives in case there as something in missing. Is not a turbo engine bit it should rev. And the pump should handle it fine, it's how it was from factory. I'm kind of leaning towards running them just because they're there and they'll more than likely work to fling a bit more oil at the gudgeon.

Cheers for your thoughts. Funny story about the cranks I had. Basically I had two, one looked a bit worse for wear and one was excellent except number 4 main was a tiny bit scratched looking. So I set the better looking one up in the lathe to machine the nose to take the smaller drive pulley for the 5M and that's when I discovered the crank was bent. Which was what caused the engine to grenade in the first place. And that's why I ended up with all the broken 7M junk. So the "bad" looking crank was perfect and that's the one I used. And whoever built the 7m before me never checked the crank for runout. And I bet it would have been super tight to turn as well. Should have been spotted before building a whole engine but I guess not.

Oil squirters. I need your opinions people. This being a 7M turbo block it has them but I don't think I need them. The pistons are basically 7M turbo pistons with a different dome so they have the transfer holes that stock 7M pistons have. But I dunno? I'm going to be running the larger flowing turbo oil pump but the question is, Should I run the squirters or not? Keen to hear your thoughts.

I had to do a few little jobs if the celicas but now I'm back into this. Ended up getting the crank ground just because. I've been measuring Mains and big ends to check oil clearances etc. Surprisingly enough when everything is new and crank is ground/ block is line bored then everything is in spec. What comes as no surprise is that the China H beam rods are the thing with the widest variance and the closest to being out of spec. And as is fitting for such an engine a toilet brush was the perfect tool for washing the bores.

Had to do some rust repairs for wof. Didn't realise how bad it had got, both sills behind the doors needed work. Is a common rust area for celicas, side window dumps shit down the quarter and it's sort of double skinned at the bottom. Anywho, drivers side needed a whole new inner and outer sill made and passenger just had two small holes so I welded them up. Side note, I thought I had already been in to the sill in the past but it turns out it was all original. So it had lasted 47 years which isn't to bad. I fucked up the clear on the drivers side and got some runs in it but you can't really see it. Also I did a pretty good job of flicking in the new colour over the top of the old. She's pretty hard to fade metallics but this time I did alright.

how are you sizing the baffles? my understanding was that they had to be equidistant from the speaker edge all round and a whole bunch bigger than what you've got there?