85_z31

I might Make an appearance in the Z since its right near my parents place

Final ride height and passed CERT too Car handles amazing with the coil overs, and with the bump steer spacers, steering is super fast and accurate. Love this car so much, handles so amazing and is so much fun - check build thread for other updates

Been Super busy since my last post here. Car has come a long way since then Rear suspension has been through a few revisions before selecting the final spring rate & length. Had to chop 20mm from the adjustment perches so they didn't contact under compression travel. rear koni's shortened 50mm and now im nice and low and fully captive. With the rear suspension fitted up i fired up the old girl to find a horrific noise coming from the cambelt, so after a new tensioner stud, tensioner cam belt and loads of adjustments it is now perfect again. Turns out the old tensioner moved and tightened the fuck out of the cam belt and stretched it heaps, so i made this crafty wee hole in the cover so adjustments can be made "toyota style" with a little bung plug that gets removed Fitted up the last of the IC pipework and sectioned the radiator shroud so that the factory viscous fan could be retained. I am personally a fan of viscous fans. I nipped up the bi metal coil so it locks in faster and cools sooner. temp holds even at 80deg which is perfect. I also went through a lot of drama with my front camber. LHS was really negative and RHS was really positive. turns out one suspension arm was from my parts car which is a different model year. Supposed to be the same but they weren't. Got it all sorted and got my wheel alignment for CERT , the rear camber at -2.25 just and only just snuck inside the oem + 0.5 rule, and front camber being adjustable pissed in. Spent ages doing heaps of small jobs for CERT. Wrapped the downpipes, bolted up heat shields , made bracket for clutch line, went for WOF , bled the brakes fixed the broken headlight and filled it up with some fresh 95. Picture is at adjusted ride height, Went for CERT through Wayne Martin last night and i believe i was the last one done on Friday night. Dropped it off yesterday and it went straight through and passed first go. Just need my cert plate and I am all good for road legal spec.

Slick Inter cooler setup, makes me feel kinda dirty for using an OLD vr4 core when yours looks so clean

Nice E30 Looks like your typical "Bimmersport Forum car" It was a few years since i sold mine, but it definitly drove a lot better once i replaced the slow as fuck steering rack with one from a newer 3 Series. Awesome car mate, I miss mine a lot

Moved under its own power Since its Failed WOF in March Now it can drive its fat ass onto the car transporter and park itself in my garage, not be all stuck at my parents farm And get sorted out for cert

yup, all Suspension welding was done by a pro, and crack tested with all the stuff for cert. Plan is to bring it to as many Zclub, Oldschool and NZ datsun meets as possible when running

been like a year since I posted here, Car is getting final touch ups and assembly for Cert viewtopic.php?f=17&t=23464&p=678235#p678235

after looking at ProZac's 1982 Starion and seeing more sweet 80's oldschool jap turbo's i felt obligated to do an update. Redbull fridge we have at the office Diff looks mint when installed. With diff looking so good i felt the drive shafts need a tidy up with new boots and cv grease. Took me ages to get the DS hoop done for cert but it's functional and can be fitting without going near the drive shaft. Been doing a little inter cooling And converting to Coilover to get better spring rates for such a heavy car As part of doing coilovers i fitted a set of Bump steer spacers for corrected suspension geometry Cut the original spring tit off the rear suspension arms Got some flanges welded on some sleeves to sit up in the body of the car Rebuilt the suspension arm with new wheel bearings, brake lines and poly bushings The silver bit on the rear suspension arms is a coil over upper mount from an A32 cefiro flipped over and located in the rear suspension arm, a spring seat fits into the bearing so that the spring doesn't get into a huge bannana bend like the factory spring does during bump compression This photo is a fairly early mockup of how it works Car is all on the ground now the photo sucks but here is how it looks Not as low as I had hoped, some shorted springs and slightly longer keepers in the front will help, it runs pretty stiff springs and still has heaps of stroke length. I can hopefully drive it this weekend now that i have all the correct High tensile shanked fastners for it.

Ok so the new camber info sheet has come out and we can't exceed OEM Camber + 0.5 , fine whatever i can make it work to be legal and legit. My Question Regarding Cert is on front strut's with incorporated spindle (Datsun/ style ) So what about taking the camber plates rotating them 90deg by drilling new holes to use them to gain additional caster?, The static camber would be fixed , caster would be increased by sliding the plate as you would for adjusting camber, high speed stability would be increased and the front wheels would stay centered in the wheel guard and rubbing would not be an issue. New holes would need drilled in the strut tower.

It could be worth looking in to the USA made "Ground Control Camber plates" they specifically advertise the following from their website "The Ground Control camber/caster plate uses an unconventional method for supporting the car. Every other camber plate, both US and Chinese (Japanese and Australian are usually made in China), uses a single bearing to support the side loads and the weight of the car. The Ground Control camber/caster plate uses one articulating bearing to locate the strut shaft only, and a completely seperate bearing to support the weight of the car around the central bearing, and having no contact or influence on the rating of the central bearing." I believe these are the only Camber plates available that don't use the conventional "spherical bearing only" design. I think some coilover brands have the needle roller bearings as pictured above or additional washers that at greased up to reduce bind in the coil over shock assembly http://www.ground-control-store.com/pro ... php/CA=229

Discussion On Drive shaft Hoops As best as I can recall from reading previous LVVTA documents , I won't need a drive shaft hoop unless i do an engine conversion OR i make more than 20% power over OEM the drive shaft is a single piece OEM unmodified item. Do you guys think i should just send it to Cert or should I just go through the effort of fabricating the hoop right away ? I'm not real keen to be drilling holes in the floor if I don't have too. As far as I can tell the car is right on about 20% more powerful than OEM so that would put me in a borderline position whether I need one or not ? but then who can actually prove my car is more powerfull unless they dyno it ? Link to build is a couple of posts UP - discuss....

Some Nice Stainless Lines Already put one side on and the fit / quality is awesome Mega Heavy Duty Diff mount Made by z31 parts.com in the USA - Polyurethane mount for a GM car, always in compression = stronger than OEM , and the box section acts as a cage so if the polyurethane fails the diff can't hit the road. and I changed out the old grade 4 bolts for high tensile bolts, looks pretty sweet seeing gold on black Justin Neil should have my 2 Way LSD back very soon then its drive shaft Loop time !!

Got some mean as Camber plates from the USA, 12mm thick upper plates, heavy duty replaceable bearing and came with nut and spacer so they can be used with the factory strut and spring.

So this is the LSD I acquired minus clutch plates. Then as if it was meant to be this popped up for me Not actually Nismo but a complete clutch pack setup from an R32 GTR in good nick, I checked all the part numbers and everything is compatible So Then I moved onto Sorting out a diff cover, I had this Z32 NZ diff cover just laying around so I decided to clean it up a bit for use The mounting bolts were too wide for a Z31 Diff Mount So I welded an extra plate on the rear to move the mounting holes out, and then fully welded in several different places, cooling in between so the rubber didn't burn, If it Passes NDT crack testing for Cert I will use it, but I am expecting to have to Purchase an Aftermarket Diff mount Sometime in the Near Future

Not sure if anybody remembers this project as I havn't posted here in a while, after seeing Old school in the latest NZPC i decided to start posting here again viewtopic.php?f=17&t=23464&p=678235#p678235

Been a while Since I Updated Oldschool After seeing the Old school Nats in NZPC i decided i should start posting here again. Got some Spacers for the Back Machined my Pentagon Hubs into round hubs and had a alloy ring pressed on to locate some spacers & GTST 280mm rotors Still Fits the factory 15" wheel's for Super Stealthy Sleeper styles Wheels are much further out to the Guards and look 10x better Made a Sweet Strut Brace that cost me like $5 in materials Un Spotted the Horey old front crossmember Busted out the sheet metal and made a new lower half from scratch Got Some Panel Beating done on the top half to keep it looking nice N factory Welded all back together with some chassis undercoat on the top- i think it came out mint considering the disaster it started out as Decided the Rear Bakes need some love Upgraded from 290x10mm solid to 288 x20 Vented

Tergo Industries envro degreaser is the SHIT to use only it costs heaps and comes in a 20L drum I have used it for all my cylinder heads, blocks, valves and everything works really fast.

Here is a Sump the guys in the USA build for a VG30ET in an old z31 300zx, anyways you get the idea Heaps more capacity and it has the trap door which holds the oil next to the pickup as far as welding goes for a steel sump Get it hot tanked and it will weld fine, a decent welded will actually tell you go back and clean it again if he wants to do a proper job on it. Its the cast alloy sumps that will cause problems when welding, alloy is a bitch to weld anyway and if its got residue it just wont weld properly.

yep its just common as muck H4 fittings I found some 130/100's at Canterbury Transport spares there going to own the stock 65/50's

Here are the Carnage Pics the shaft on the turbo is mega bent and big chunks missing from the turbine wheel. Last turbo took me 3 hours to remove this time it took me 90 minutes taking it easy and looking at stuff on the PC i have in the Garage

Argh So gutted Got the Car running nice on the new turbo setup Got it tuned up real mint with Nistune & the Laptop did some awesome headlight wiring blew the turbo on the way to a WOF check So i still went to my wof check in a cloud of blue smoke from the turbo seals being fucked would have passed had the turbo not blow as it was the only thing i got failed on Not bad when the last WOF was 5 years ago !!

Also did some mega overkill headlight wiring 4ga cable to the fuse block 8gb Cable to each relay and 5mm2 power cable to each headlight. I think the signal cable to the relays is a bit ligher as it dosn't have to carry any current any longer as its only tripping a relay. Fuse block and 4ga red cable- The Bling shiny cable is the 8ga Where we ran the split loom... x1 is the RHS old headlight wires that are soldered and extended to provide signal to the relays. x1 is LHS Power Wire x1 is RHS Power Wires o the headlight bulbs. And the Bosh Relay blocks mounted just above the cable entry into the fender. I have allowed a 3rd relay for misc / something else in the future. The 50/65 watt bulbs in there are a similar brightness to the 90/100 watt bulbs in my truck This system provides practically zero volt drop and allows me a very reliable circuit for running mega uprated bulbs

have also cut the hole in he bonnet for the hood scoop. Because i got a mint non turbo bonnet it didn't have the hole for it but as its a factory turbo car the scoop needs to be there for cool air to blow down onto the turbo. You can see I started to fix the old bonnet, it was totally ruined and i didn't make a very good job at all it was really well beyond my skills as most of the frame was gone. The Grey one i picked up for $50 which was awesome as i had mega trouble finding one, had a quote of $1500 for a brand new one from nissan, or $750 from Z spares in Auckland

And for some more Brake Upgrade Stuff, these areZ31 1985T 5 stud turbo hubs machined down to accept an R32/Z32 30mm Rotor, I believe the longer wheel studs shown are z31 1988 rear wheel studs I sourced these from the USA as they were amazingly good value compared to Repco & other places the way they are currently the rotors have a bit much float, I will have a alloy shim made up so that its all nice and hubcentric so there are no problems with getting a Certification At a later date I will get some wheel spacers to allow me to use my stock 85T wheels, I do have other wheels But I would like the option of factory wheels fitting anyway. ( and i have a set of mint tires I would like to use up ) When pay day rolls around I will be ordering stainless front brake lines & caliper rebuild set So to those of you wanting to do a brake upgrade on something with the 100mm spacing, Z31 5 stud hubs are what you need. Same result as getting R31 4 stud hubs re drilled but the Z31 hubs are reasonably easy to find