85_z31

I might Make an appearance in the Z since its right near my parents place

Final ride height and passed CERT too Car handles amazing with the coil overs, and with the bump steer spacers, steering is super fast and accurate. Love this car so much, handles so amazing and is so much fun - check build thread for other updates

Been Super busy since my last post here. Car has come a long way since then Rear suspension has been through a few revisions before selecting the final spring rate & length. Had to chop 20mm from the adjustment perches so they didn't contact under compression travel. rear koni's shortened 50mm and now im nice and low and fully captive. With the rear suspension fitted up i fired up the old girl to find a horrific noise coming from the cambelt, so after a new tensioner stud, tensioner cam belt and loads of adjustments it is now perfect again. Turns out the old tensioner moved and tightened the fuck out of the cam belt and stretched it heaps, so i made this crafty wee hole in the cover so adjustments can be made "toyota style" with a little bung plug that gets removed Fitted up the last of the IC pipework and sectioned the radiator shroud so that the factory viscous fan could be retained. I am personally a fan of viscous fans. I nipped up the bi metal coil so it locks in faster and cools sooner. temp holds even at 80deg which is perfect. I also went through a lot of drama with my front camber. LHS was really negative and RHS was really positive. turns out one suspension arm was from my parts car which is a different model year. Supposed to be the same but they weren't. Got it all sorted and got my wheel alignment for CERT , the rear camber at -2.25 just and only just snuck inside the oem + 0.5 rule, and front camber being adjustable pissed in. Spent ages doing heaps of small jobs for CERT. Wrapped the downpipes, bolted up heat shields , made bracket for clutch line, went for WOF , bled the brakes fixed the broken headlight and filled it up with some fresh 95. Picture is at adjusted ride height, Went for CERT through Wayne Martin last night and i believe i was the last one done on Friday night. Dropped it off yesterday and it went straight through and passed first go. Just need my cert plate and I am all good for road legal spec.

Slick Inter cooler setup, makes me feel kinda dirty for using an OLD vr4 core when yours looks so clean

Nice E30 Looks like your typical "Bimmersport Forum car" It was a few years since i sold mine, but it definitly drove a lot better once i replaced the slow as fuck steering rack with one from a newer 3 Series. Awesome car mate, I miss mine a lot

Moved under its own power Since its Failed WOF in March Now it can drive its fat ass onto the car transporter and park itself in my garage, not be all stuck at my parents farm And get sorted out for cert

yup, all Suspension welding was done by a pro, and crack tested with all the stuff for cert. Plan is to bring it to as many Zclub, Oldschool and NZ datsun meets as possible when running

been like a year since I posted here, Car is getting final touch ups and assembly for Cert viewtopic.php?f=17&t=23464&p=678235#p678235

after looking at ProZac's 1982 Starion and seeing more sweet 80's oldschool jap turbo's i felt obligated to do an update. Redbull fridge we have at the office Diff looks mint when installed. With diff looking so good i felt the drive shafts need a tidy up with new boots and cv grease. Took me ages to get the DS hoop done for cert but it's functional and can be fitting without going near the drive shaft. Been doing a little inter cooling And converting to Coilover to get better spring rates for such a heavy car As part of doing coilovers i fitted a set of Bump steer spacers for corrected suspension geometry Cut the original spring tit off the rear suspension arms Got some flanges welded on some sleeves to sit up in the body of the car Rebuilt the suspension arm with new wheel bearings, brake lines and poly bushings The silver bit on the rear suspension arms is a coil over upper mount from an A32 cefiro flipped over and located in the rear suspension arm, a spring seat fits into the bearing so that the spring doesn't get into a huge bannana bend like the factory spring does during bump compression This photo is a fairly early mockup of how it works Car is all on the ground now the photo sucks but here is how it looks Not as low as I had hoped, some shorted springs and slightly longer keepers in the front will help, it runs pretty stiff springs and still has heaps of stroke length. I can hopefully drive it this weekend now that i have all the correct High tensile shanked fastners for it.

Ok so the new camber info sheet has come out and we can't exceed OEM Camber + 0.5 , fine whatever i can make it work to be legal and legit. My Question Regarding Cert is on front strut's with incorporated spindle (Datsun/ style ) So what about taking the camber plates rotating them 90deg by drilling new holes to use them to gain additional caster?, The static camber would be fixed , caster would be increased by sliding the plate as you would for adjusting camber, high speed stability would be increased and the front wheels would stay centered in the wheel guard and rubbing would not be an issue. New holes would need drilled in the strut tower.

It could be worth looking in to the USA made "Ground Control Camber plates" they specifically advertise the following from their website "The Ground Control camber/caster plate uses an unconventional method for supporting the car. Every other camber plate, both US and Chinese (Japanese and Australian are usually made in China), uses a single bearing to support the side loads and the weight of the car. The Ground Control camber/caster plate uses one articulating bearing to locate the strut shaft only, and a completely seperate bearing to support the weight of the car around the central bearing, and having no contact or influence on the rating of the central bearing." I believe these are the only Camber plates available that don't use the conventional "spherical bearing only" design. I think some coilover brands have the needle roller bearings as pictured above or additional washers that at greased up to reduce bind in the coil over shock assembly http://www.ground-control-store.com/pro ... php/CA=229

Discussion On Drive shaft Hoops As best as I can recall from reading previous LVVTA documents , I won't need a drive shaft hoop unless i do an engine conversion OR i make more than 20% power over OEM the drive shaft is a single piece OEM unmodified item. Do you guys think i should just send it to Cert or should I just go through the effort of fabricating the hoop right away ? I'm not real keen to be drilling holes in the floor if I don't have too. As far as I can tell the car is right on about 20% more powerful than OEM so that would put me in a borderline position whether I need one or not ? but then who can actually prove my car is more powerfull unless they dyno it ? Link to build is a couple of posts UP - discuss....

Some Nice Stainless Lines Already put one side on and the fit / quality is awesome Mega Heavy Duty Diff mount Made by z31 parts.com in the USA - Polyurethane mount for a GM car, always in compression = stronger than OEM , and the box section acts as a cage so if the polyurethane fails the diff can't hit the road. and I changed out the old grade 4 bolts for high tensile bolts, looks pretty sweet seeing gold on black Justin Neil should have my 2 Way LSD back very soon then its drive shaft Loop time !!

Got some mean as Camber plates from the USA, 12mm thick upper plates, heavy duty replaceable bearing and came with nut and spacer so they can be used with the factory strut and spring.

So this is the LSD I acquired minus clutch plates. Then as if it was meant to be this popped up for me Not actually Nismo but a complete clutch pack setup from an R32 GTR in good nick, I checked all the part numbers and everything is compatible So Then I moved onto Sorting out a diff cover, I had this Z32 NZ diff cover just laying around so I decided to clean it up a bit for use The mounting bolts were too wide for a Z31 Diff Mount So I welded an extra plate on the rear to move the mounting holes out, and then fully welded in several different places, cooling in between so the rubber didn't burn, If it Passes NDT crack testing for Cert I will use it, but I am expecting to have to Purchase an Aftermarket Diff mount Sometime in the Near Future