sholdowa

Mike Fiddymont on Brougham Street down here replaced the webbing in the van with matching green stuff. They are retractable, but... worth a call.

Lancia Beta Montecarlo Same, but flanked by a couple of mazzers Sunbeams Wolsleys Couple of Austin Healeys The NZ TR Register. Apologies for chopping a TR7 off the end. Mark's beautiful Mk.2 Jag. Unfortunately not as pretty as it was this morning due to an under bonnet fire. Finally Tim's Austin 1300 GT. It's for sale... contact me if you're interested.

Sunday morning breakfast meet at the Governors Bay Hotel, first Sunday of the month, 10am.

Back in the UK, it was necessary to keep handbrake cables. Is it the case here too, or can I just run a hydraulic one???

The rolls solution would be to mount 2 facet red tops ( so you don't have to get out and hit it when one sticks ) in the boot, line to a filter king under the bonnet, then 3psi to the carb(s). That way if you go injection, you can replace/add the filter king with a surge tank, use the facet as a lift punp, and feed off from that with a high pressure pump. Hope that makes sense.

FF valve sizes: 39.6 in 34 ex. If it's a formula ford engine, then there's limits on valve lift as well... and plenty else.

711M mounts are shorter than 681F. All are unequal lengths, the longer one being on the drivers side. the rubbers should fit in the original slot on the xmember, not on top of it. Conversion to world cup may be an alternative?

TBH I've never noticed any difference... maybe you're talking about Mk.4 / 5 cortinas which I've never played with. The only unique tail section I know of was in my RS2000s, which moved the lever forward a couple of inches.

yup that's what I meant. If the head's been off, it may just have been a problem with the gasket, or torquing the head down.

As far as I know, all 4 speed ford RWD gearboxes are the same length. Only the type 2 is cast with an integral bellhousing, which makes it pretty easy to distinguish, as are the old 3 rail boxes ( tailshaft cast in ). I know the 3 litre capri box has a longer input shaft. Maybe you've got a type 9 5 speed box there? If so, you'll need to mod the gearbox crossmember and prop shaft...

Every pinto I've had that suddenly starts throwing oil out like this needed a rebuild... and that it more than one lol. However, it could easily be the gasket if you've just rebuilt it.

I thought it was a crossflow? The hex oil pump drive is on pintos only. Oil pump is external on Kent's.

From what I remember all the Lucas ACRs fit, so go for the biggest you can if you need to replace it. 25's are about 70 amp I think.

I'm after an EDIS-4 module / trigger off one of the old fords - if anyone's passing can they let me know. However, looking at the prices, it sounds a bit steep. Am I reading it right?

will do. thanks Dan.

many thanks. all new to me...

Can you find out what's there before going?

Has anyone got one I can borrow for a week or so?? Cheers, Steve

It's pretty easy, although easier with a mate... 1. If the car is diving when brakes are applied, then it's the fronts that aren't working - almost certainly a stuck piston on the side that it didn't dive to. Quick and dirty way: Take out one of the pads, and insert a tyre lever. lever the piston out, making sure the master cylinder doesn't overflow. Then use the brake pedal to tighten up on the tyre lever - making sure the MC doesn't empty. Do that a few times, then replace that brake pad and do the same for the other side. It the rubber dust cover on the piston is perished, it's worth oiling the piston with some brake fluid as you're doing this. ( obviously, it's really time to rebuild the caliper ) 2. If it's not diving ( or not much ), then do the same with the back brakes if they're discs. If drum, then take the drums off ( usually easier said than done ) and inspect the slave cylinders for leaks, and the shoes for gunge. Usually replacing the slaves is the easiest/cheapest option, but they can be rebuilt if rare. Once that's done, it's always good to bleed them. If they're sticking, then they probably havent been touched in a few years, and the fluid will be wet = fading. But it is better to get calipers rebuilt... it's pretty easy, but everything must be very clean.

I went around repco today, and the only dot-4 available was their own brand. At under $20 /litre, it doesn't seem to be too expensive to use that. I'll look out for the shiny Castrol stuff tho.

Not yet please JoKer. I've read lots about this, and would really like other opinions. The advantages AIUI is that DOT-5 will last the odd decade, is non-hygroscopic and leaves your paintwork alone. The stuff I've googled suggests that it's a pretty easy job, which is why I've asked for opinions.

The jensen is really sulking from being ignored for a couple of months. On the way back from getting new tyres ( thanks cul8r, the steering is transformed! ), brakes went straight to the floor down Dyers Pass. Couple of pumps and they stopped quick as ever. So, time to flush and refill the braking system. I've been reading up and most people seem to think it's a good idea, and 'fairly' simple to upgrade to DOT-5 ( just turn the caliper upside down as the silicone fluid is lighter ). What do those with experience in this think??? Cheers, Steve

Inty had one as standard - that was 4WD - at the end of the fanymold

Turns out it was nothing of the kind... There was a bad conncection in the ignition feed. Only broke when a) the engine was hot, and you revved it, and the block moved. Found it by moving it and the engine died.

Thanks UJ. Will bear that in mind. Yes, it's a Lotus 907. One of my favourite engines of all time...