vegie

well it looks as though one electric fan aint gonna cut it. doesn't seem to cool down too well, so will have to purchase/fit another. stink.

my thoughts exactly! first drive in over a year, thought the power-steering was naff, but no, its just terrible! bit of finishing work to do but mostly there.

ITS ALIVE!

pic's as promised of my slow progress... . I had to slot the thermo housing to fit the FJ20, so I made an adapter plate to suit the different gasket sizes. I fitted a Camry overflow bottle as the original one was perished, and far to big to fit in there. I still have to fit a battery in there too. it "should" just fit. bit of a waste as my current battery is slightly too big, and not very old. oh well show-off valve in its new position. intake hose looks a bit funky now, but it's the only way it'll fit in there. how the intake pipe and filter are going to fit in there. still have to make a mounting bracket. still need to drop the radiator down about 1" in the radiator mount to clear the bonnet, but shouldn't be an issue. .

spent most of today working on this. fitted up the radiator, intake piping and blow-off valve. I changed the piping into the throttle body as it was on this piss a bit. fits heaps better now. filled the radiator, no leaks which is good, but its mounted slightly too high and the cap fouls the bonnet. so out it comes, again...at least I can unbolt the bonnet bulge and see where its touching. on the plus side it seems to run well when up to temp, even with the fan wired backwards. wondered why the intake air temp was so high. pics to follow...

ok, so another RS-X owner photographed the decals on my car and had these made up. I grabbed a spare set off him today. they are actually very accurate. i'll hang on to them till I get it painted in the future, and mine are all pretty worn looking anyway.

got some work done today, and air-mailed a few tools round the garage in the process. there is NOTHING easy to get to in this car... mounted up the electric fan in front of the radiator due to lack of space, this turned out to be an absolute mission with the intercooler in place... but the radiator fits in with about 10mm to spare from the crank pulley. original thermostat housing aint gonna work, so I found a mitsi one which should do the job in the second pic. looks like I have to slightly re-angle the intake pipe on the drivers side as its sitting on the radiator, but I think that's an easy fix. now I need to find some suitable hoses to plumb the rad up.

well it seems I found the fault. not ignition at all, rather a fuel problem. when I fitted the Bosch 044 pump intank, I didn't have the room for the non return valve/banjo fitting it was supplied with. I removed them and put a -8AN fitting in their place. after sitting for quite some time, the car developed an air lock in the fuel rail at #1 cylinder, and due to its design, wouldn't bleed out easily. I removed the rail, and bleed the air out and it runs normal again. I hope this isn't going to be an on going issue, and all the reading up ive done, it seems most people remove this check valve too...

pictureless update. started it up, and its developed a misfire. grr only seems to run on three cylinders. doesn't seem to be the plugs, so I hope it's not my tacho mod doing it. time to check my wiring over

thanks man, yeah, I really wanted to mount it up the other way, but it would have meant the power steering and throttle body would need moving or modifying. there is bugger all space in the front of mine.

well, I got all the pipes welded up, and intercooler fitted on soft mounts. finally making some progress with this car... and i've also made the offset radiator support. still have to mount the electric fan to the front as it wont fit between the radiator and engine. still have to sort out the radiator hoses too.

got the gas soldering iron from work Richie...

maybe not relevant, but I have a Nissan v6 with a factory dual mass flywheel. they are commonly replaced to put a solid flywheel in place of, which usually results in the sort of clattering noise your getting, mostly at idle... was this engine meant to be dual mass in factory manual trim?

i did exactly this to get my coilover hardware. just undid the nut, and it vented what was left ok. one thing though the threaded tubes dont slide off, we had to press them off. they surface rust in behind and get stuck tight. the cleaned up all good though...

had this with my 120y coupe running a sunny 5 speed in it. even though gearbox was really high with a custom mount, i had to slide hammer the driveshaft out of the gearbox,as it wedged it in there that tight.

ask orion (Ed) about it. i think it was for sale for $900 before this owner got it. i remember Ed talking about it somewhere...

mineral turpentine is the ducks nuts for removing underseal. worked magic on my datsun. scrape it off and hit it with turps...

ok, have pretty much sorted out how piping will run. there's a couple of joins in the aluminium pipes to weld, and a couple of mounting lugs, then its done for the intercooler. a bit more silicon than i would have liked, but it allows the engine to move around a bit without hassles. still need to make mounting brackets for radiator, but i need to get i/cooler finished first. another headache is the new radiator has different size hoses to the engine, but i think i have that sorted. will know soon enough...

cams can stay there, thats not the issue. there is a "cup" like casting in the front cover that stops the top chain from dropping off the jack shaft gear when loose. also the front cover has studs dropping down through the sump, not bolts up from underneath. like this, the small stand off just below the two circles to the top right of the oil pump...

im with ky on this i think. meshies are overdone.

um you doing top or both chains? for the top chain, you know front cover AND sump need to come off to change it out?

my first thoughts too lol. looks like it coming along well. be interested to learn a bit more about your S14 rack conversion. i replaced my S12 one, but the ratios arent that great. keen toi see it in the flesh someday.

ok, so did some spending today. bought back all my recycled cans from China... V-mount type intecooler setup. fits not to bad in front panel. i'll need to modify the bonnet catch slightly to push it a little further forward. its 85mm thick and weighs a whole lot more than i expected! and a new alloy hairdresser spec MX5 radiator. only one i could find with correct inlet/outlet and is exactly the same size as rad hole in front panel. and whole lot of crap to (hopefully) make it happen. looks like i will need a little bit of welding done to fit it all. sounds like a good job for not me!

the two wire thing is normal. FJ manuals state the tps is 3 wire, but all 4 looms ive had are 2 wire. the 2 wires are for the throttle closed switch. the 3rd wire is for full throttle position, and in almost every case ive seen, isnt connected. the coolant temp sensor looks to be just under the top hose in the thermostat housing. cant really see it clearly in those pics. check the contacts are clean. a high resistance reading will cause over fuelling. temp sensor should read 1-2 K ohms when cold if you have a multimeter the cold air bypass is the valve on the manifold above #2 runner. does this engine run on oxy sensor in the exhaust?

i cant see a decent pic in you build thread of intake, but the engine coolant sensor is brass, with a bosch style injector plug on it (2 wire) whereas gauge sensor is a single spade terminal. the not idling down sounds like a possible vacuum leak? maybe the cold air bypass regulator is gummed up? i removed mine as it wasnt great, and later figured out its in series with the fuel pump wiring. no wonder it wouldnt go lol. post a pic of the intake some stage...