84_S12

It's commonly found on the back of old domestic fridges too. I hadn't factored in the ductility as a problem, but work hardening and cracking is still the end result. Salt on the roads in the USA and Euroland is the reason for not using steel lines according to a brief look at the SAE study findings because they commonly fail within 5-6 years (!!!) so surely if copper nickel lines are fitted to your RX3 and certified in the UK, and manufacturers are fitting them to new vehicles being certified here, they can't knock you out on them?

Copper crystalises and will crack due to vibration over time hence it is unsuitable for use in a motor vehicle, especially on something as critical as brake lines. So bundy tube it is for you mate! Case in point - copper tube is used in almost all air conditioning installations except for automotive - where instead aluminium and flexible connections are used.

Bring it! When?

Tried freezing the axle?

If all else fails read the thread (Quoted from page one) or simply google search Vibration is really not good for amps or any electronics at all (Waits for Steve to interject) I would seriously consider separating the amp from the sub, but then it may be that your output transistors have failed at which point you might as well replace the whole thing

Ignition module? They're a solid state device often found hiding between your dizzy and the engine block which of course makes them prone to heat soak... I could be wrong though it might pay to wait for someone more conversant with Toyota engines?

Surely you could be achieving a 1.9 second 60 foot time just by using sticky slicks and/or reducing wheel diameter?

Fuck I thought it was a common thing on the Holden Sixes as it helps bump up valve lift without changing the cam but then I guess if it's mashing valves into pistons and breaking drivetrain parts it's no use ay. Just thought I'd chuck a suggestion out there rather than tell a man how to build his car

Not too sure how that would go what with the extra grinding sparks and folopenin tube to power it all Steve

Cuda's and Challengers rock my socks

Roller rockers and an increase in rocker ratio, followed up with a more accurate tune?

It's not about the actual impedance rating. In reality the impedance is an average of the readings from all the speakers in the system ie splits (Tweets tend to present less of a load than woofers for example) it's just provided as a nominal figure. An amplifier designer will have designed the amplifier with an expected load so yes it MIGHT sound best with speakers that represent this load, but it's not the final word. 4 ohms is pretty much a standard for car audio components I think anyway, you could run 8 ohm speakers but they would be quieter than 4 ohm speakers... and so the opposite is true with lower impedances. If I were you I would aim for around 80W x 4 as an amp output it doesn't matter if you slightly overdrive your 75 watters for example, but you want to make the most of your 85 watters rather than underdrive them so you're looking for something around 800W that can take speakers level inputs or output 4 channels from a single pair of preouts, otherwise you'd be looking to use those things I showed you from Jaycar. I can't offer much more than that advice wise as far as models and specs for car audio I don't know what's out there so I'll leave that up to you? Peace Ryan

What are your speakers rated at? (Continuous RMS not max)

It has one PAIR of RCA preouts, should you wanna run 4 channels all through the amp you'll need 2 pair as splitters reduce the signal level. It's up to you obviously. What amp are you hoping to use (Model Number) If it's a good 4 channel amp it may even output the signal from your single pair of preouts to all 4 channels of the amp in which case you're peachy.... Also I would suggest running a heavier gauge cable as smaller cable has higher resistance, especially the fishing line shit they pack in with the speakers. Solder all connections if you can too to reduce volt drops and the likelihood of vibrations rattling the generic crimp fittings loose

Yeah if you have a 4 channel heady and you want to run 4 speakers from a 4 channel amp then buy 2 so you can connect front L&R and rear L&R. Make sense? You'll be fine to run your components off your 500W amp, so long as you set it up right I'm sure it will sound sweet and live long time As I said in the edited version of my previous post, this will leave your heady's RCA outputs free for addition of a sub and amp package without needing to change your heady should you choose to add some thump down the line Chur

It's like kinking a hose to water your pot plants - it limits the hose pressure so you don't blast them out of their pots So: Wire these into the speaker outputs on your heady's plug-in harness as if they were speakers Run RCA cables from the outputs of these gadgets to your amp Adjust the output level to match the required input level of your amp Connect speakers (Choice option) Connect a single channel amplifier to your now unused RCA outputs Connect subwoofer Doof Doof +Profit Steve you must have been an epic failure as an electronics technician

http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=AA0480&CATID=24&form=CAT&SUBCATID=619 Use these lnline from speaker level output (It's an attenuator so will drop it down to line level for amplifiers) and run RCAs from these to AMP Assuming you have 4 speaker outputs and a 4 channel amp, then you have RCA outputs free to run a sub from same headunit

Ever run it dry? They tend not to like that... Even for a short time (like fuel surge in hard cornering) it's usually bad news as the fluid it's pumping (petrol in this case) is the means of cooling and lubrication Other possible causes would be stress on the pump caused by a blocked fuel filter or faulty pressure regulator, it might be worth checking out whether your tank has shit in it getting stirred up by "spirited driving" too On a side note it's a very good reason not to fill up your car when the tanker is there or has just been, the high flow transfer pumps stir up all the shit that inevitably settles in the storage tanks over the years

Dunno whether you've tried Maces or Flemings but these guys look like they take care of that sort of thing too http://www.motorreconditioners.co.nz/reconditioning.html

Removing the steering rack is a piece of wees, just get a wheel alignment after for safety's sake. You could take the opportunity to obviously drain and refill it in the process (Making sure to bleed all the air from the system) and replace the rack boots if they haven't been done recently to save going through the hassle again if one of them tears. Make sure to tape up your hydraulic flares so no shit gets in them too... I removed the one from the S12, got it rebuilt by the specialist cause I prefer to leave things like that to the pros, then reinstalled it. All up about a nights labour, and I did it on my back with the car on stands - obviously it's going to be millions easier up on a hoist

If you do it that way purge it with an inert gas like nitrogen

Solder it, like with a patch a big soldering iron and solder Whatever way you do it, be tuff and do it with a durry hanging out your mouth

Let's hope I'm not on call next time, jebus that makes 3 times running now lol

Slipsittin: You've got half the facts right, but some of that is like wtf mate Forced: You're talking fucking utter nonsense!! I thought we might have learned from the last "cooling problems" thread? @Ke36 In a burnout car you may have to consider all of the offered solutions: you're driving an engine and its cooling system outside of its design limits 1: Yes the water pump probably is cavitating at the engine speeds I imagine you're using to burn the bags. Decreasing its speed through a pulley change would be a starting point; failing that fitting an electric waterpump is another (More expensive) option, albeit a more flexible one in that you won't compromise water flow under normal driving conditions. 2: Fit a well designed expansion tank that increases the volume of your coolant, allows for the expansion and contraction of your coolant without drawing air into the water jacket, and can safely vent excess pressure if necessary - space is the limiting factor here obviously 3: An engine driven clutch fan with a properly sized and sealed shroud, a well designed front air dam and having the engine splashguard fitted to the underside of the car will all provide the conditions necessary for a fan to be in it's optimum performance curve; to move as much air as possible through your heat exchanger AND get it moving out of the engine bay is the goal - to achieve it you need to make the engine bay a low pressure zone by sealing as much air leakage around the radiator (and the rest of the front of the car) as possible 4: Any third party product that increases the thermal conductivity of your coolant medium is going to help 5: Cranking the heater on full with the fan on maximum, and opening your windows provides you with another (free) means of rejecting unwanted heat through what is effectively a secondary heat exchanger 6: An evaporative cooling system could also be fitted to your intercooler/radiator combo, a tank with a 12v pump and some irrigation tube and fittings shouldn't be too expensive or difficult to fit and will give you additional cooling headroom. 7: Ensure that ALL of the air is bled from the cooling system and that there are no leaks that will contribute to air being drawn into it as the water leaks out. Some engines (RB** series springs to mind) have a bleed port at the highest point of the water jacket. I'm going to assume that you know how to properly fill your cooling sytem... 8: Consider routing the coolant through a coil immersed in a water/ice mixture, hell you could jerry rig the car's airconditioning evaporator to keep it cold! For fucks sakes people the answers have pretty much all been given here, but the point of the thread AND the forum for that matter is very much diluted by the sheer amount of misguided bullshit the less intelligent members spout between the meaningful posts Fuck!