ThePog

See the plate here Relocated fusebox Bracket mod Wrap to stop cooking the starter wires Stealth gauges, shitty stering wheel and cupholder. I put a Fiat 124 Tach in the hole where the temp ones etc were, even the needles were identical! Plugs inside the glovebox, fusebox was below this. Blinged it up with a TWINCAM sticker With the 14" rims on

Found some of mine on the photobucket Got Dick smith electronic ignition right there! I kept the Lada alternator, had to mod the adjustment bracket but no biggie. Lada Radiator. Was easyish to match up the exhaust but hard to stop cooking the starter motor and wires, pretty sure I put a shield in there. The starter sits on the other side with the fiat gearbox. Kept the Lada gearbox as they are actually pretty good. The Fiat engine has a water jacket plate at the back of the engine that gets in the way. This is the notch I put in the bellhousing to clear it. Pretty sure the Fiat flywheel etc needed no mods, apart from the notch everything just bolted up, I seem to recall some dicking with the clutch mech tho. Doubled up the front swaybar, this was easy, just needed to cut 100mm off the second bar and make a bracket to tie them together. Handled better after this. Put on 40 dellortos, Was great. Had to move the fuse box to the inside of the car for clearance. Will find some more...

I also have many photos of my twin cam conversion if you are interested, can chuck them up on a gdrive or sumfink...

Well then, the plot thickens. Firstly, when i tried to park it in my shed the first time it was dusk so visibility was marginal. I tried to back it in but the gravel slope was not helping, plus it started to piss out what looked like steam or white smoke. I then got it in forwards and the smoke cleared up on the flat. At the time I asked Jones and it had happened to him also, he thought the valve seals were worn and the oil pooling in the head when on a slope was the cause, meh I thought, no biggie... I talked to him just now about it with my theory and he says the smoke thing started about the same time the brake fluid disappearance started. I would bet money the booster is the culprit in all of this. Funnily enough one of the things we found in the workshop appeared to be a remote booster, I gave this to Alex/yoeddynz a couple of weeks ago thinking I would never have a use for something like that. I asked the previous owner of the business/hoarder what it was and he said it was off his MGB and was working fine when he took it off.... So Alex has kindly agreed to give it back to me, even if I swap it out as a temporary measure while I fix the original that will be extremely useful....

Yea it is remote, I will check once it is all bled and left overnight. I am guessing this might only show up with a bad leak tho. I have potentially found another car for parts, so if the booster in that is ok I might swap them out to see.

So Jones told me to keep an eye on the brake fluid, I though this was a slow leak or something but it is directly proportional to the amount of use. I realised this when the pedal went to the floor when i hopped in this morning, so a bleed is on the cards for tomorrow. Jones has chased this issue and replaced everything with new or recon parts except for a couple of the hard lines. There are no obvious leaks, but the shit disappears pretty quick. He had the vac booster rebuilt when he got the car, and my theory is that this is leaking a tiny bit and sucking fluid through when vacuum is applied - then getting burned in the engine. Any other theories before I start chasing this?

I have a brand new gearstick lollipop for you if you want it And I have heard rumours of evil plots against me and my car. All you have to do is ask nicely dicks.

I bought a company and the owner had never knowingly thrown anything away, This is some of that stuff. Everytime a bit of the workshop gets cleaned we find something interesting, last time it was a complete virtually brand new laser level set and an insinkerator. I have about a dozen gas regulators and the like, and we once threw away 10 broken grinders that were being kept as spare parts, also 3 or 4 broken broom handles. You get the picture.

Did a bit more today, welded the bottom panel to the inner one. I started making the patch panel but it was getting dark and i started rushing, so I stopped. The patch is just some 25x3 angle, but it will reform the lip perfectly, and tuck upwards behind the rusty bit. This means I will get a full bead of weld along the top and bottom. I cleaned out the lead as much as I could but I expect I will need to bog at least some of it which is unfortunate. I also wedged a bit of steel up behind the trailer connection hole and filled that up.

jesus you people.

As it happens I have pics from long age when it was debumpered, what do you reckon? Also bonus MS Paint photoshop;

Right. So I removed the back bumper today to look at the rust that was there; Kindof ugly but not too bad. Water has got in through the trailer light plug and sat in a trap all the way along that seam. Shortly afterwards; So I have rust converted everything in there and will start welding tomorrow. The only hassle is that there is a seam at the ends of where I cut that has lead filler, this might make that area a bit problematic. We will see. Edit; I am digging the debumpered look. Seriously thinking of removing all the chrome now.

I cant remember sorry, 5.5 or 6" I would imagine.

Most of the 70's 80's Fiat/lancia RWD wheels will fit, I had a set of 131 14" steels on my 2104.

So I drove this around a bit in the weekend, my man warned me that it will attract old men like flies on shit. Literally the first time I stop in a public venue an old man in his eighties wanders up. They are like fucking zombies attracted to fresh meat... not very fast but extremely intent on the purpose at hand. They love them old Humbers for sure. No issues so far, it runs like a dream. The steering is probably the worst bit, it needs a fair amount of positive input. My mate reckons that it is just how it is, but i imagine some loving to the steering box and checking the geometry might help. It is not that bad really, but it would be nice to improve things. Intent this week is to fix up the rust under the bumper and the gearbox mounts then try for a wof. That is all.

They are, it will cruise at 120kmh entirely happily, and given the weight of it they must be real horsepowers.

Yea there is a tow bar in the boot. It is off at the mo as there is a wee rust repair needed behind the rear bumper. Engine is a 3 liter straight 6, 136 horsepowers.

It is amazingly smooth and quiet in real life, needs a bit of loving here and there. Feels pretty regal.

Sorry, I am all high class now, no time for proletarianism.

Build Thread Go

So this is arriving in my hot little hands in an hour or two, assuming it doesnt blow up and/or my sister does not crash it on the road from picton. I am such a dick, I dont like British cars, and anything not a wagon is stupid, so obviously I have acquired a british saloon. Got it from a mate in AKL who has had it for many years. He only let me have it on the basis that I slam it, so me and sidewaysickness have been planning that out. There will be more pics when it has arrived, but here is a potato quality one from my sister as she left Picton just now. Discussion Thread

They are not a refined engine, do not worry about noises too much. Or do what I did and find a Fiat twin cam to drop in...

In theory it is all about the difference in temp, and i will have a lot of that. I imagine it will need some regulation on the output. The unit only cost $17 so if not enough electrickery gets made I will keep adding them til it does.

It does considering I bent all that by hand. I made some changes a couple of days ago, I can now bypass the filter so you are not heating the water in there/losing heat from the stainless. Also I will buy a solar panel so it can just chug away with the filter when not in use. Double also I have bought a peltier device http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermoelectric_effect and will use the temperature difference from the water to the fire to power the pump when the fire is lit.