Raizer

19 minutes ago, cletus said:

That sheet is in degrees and minutes- that means 2°30' is your max not 2.50°

Ah so that's the minutes he was talking about!

There was some confusion when I was talking about bushings or arms that give X° adjustment and he was saying they'd give "probably X minutes"

19 minutes ago, cletus said:

I'd just raise it a whisker and avoid having to buy arms

So you're saying raise it up to 4% for cert, then it'll still be compliant with the +/- 5% variance when I drop it back down and fit camber bushings later right?

Think 4% is about 13mm at the guard.

I was talking to Mike Reid on Tuesday, seemed good to deal with on the phone at least, but he def made it sound like I'd be wasting my time taking it to him if the sheet is even a hair over the .50°, "but Euros have a huge factory allowance so you'll be fine with it slammed" lol

Yeah knew the 0.50° max over stock.

Think it's the MIN being a full degree more than MAX on the specifications that's thrown me off.

Tyre shop reckoned I needed to get rid of about 2°00' rear, about 0.5° from the fronts/think he was more concerned about the fucked rack end.

Edit: been a long day and my brain was stuck in neutral haha

Clicked that it's negative numbers so -2 is smaller than -1, looking at it I'm thinking it's within cert specs, I'm allowed -2°50' rear for cert going by that min being -2°00'
So I'm all good right?

The right rear toe is going to be a case of teaching the alignment guy how to adjust "not adjustable" Merc rear toe/probably have to take my triple square sockets down to do it but should be easy enough.

Then 1.25° rear camber bushings and factory option front adjustment bolts can be added later without effecting cert to try save tyres a bit more.

Any issue with either of these for cert?

Lol just realised after posting, they appear to be the exact same arms just with different sticker.

Went for pre-cert alignment today, if I'm lucky front camber can be brought into line with genuine Merc adjustment bolts and raising the coilovers maybe 10mm.
Rear needs something like 2° less negitive camber, caster just squeaked in spec.

Oh unrelated but one of the inner tierods is pulling out of the rack so that's fun.

Edit: I've been told by a couple people that should be within cert spec for camber, what's your professional thoughts @cletus

4 hours ago, Lord Gruntfuttock said:

Looked and sounded great...

https://www.specsavers.co.nz/

I've been running Goodrides for years now, normally get a year/2 wofs from the fronts pair, couple years from the rears (van life, it eats front tyres).
Find them very predictable in the wet and more than enough grip for my Hiace in the dry.

Also fuck Zetum tyres, never again ha

You can, Mrs @Alfashark is the person to talk to from memory.

I put it in the too hard basket as there's a lot of fucking about with the receipts etc to claim it.

I was always told by my old boss and the engine machine shop we used to run plain water only until 50k after re-torque (we mostly worked on old school cars), then coolant.

The MLS gaskets I've more recently fitted are a "minimum of 400km" using plain water.

Keep an eye on SCA for XA welders, they clearanced out all Cig stock a few months ago and I've just seen my local has stocked up with Xcel-Arc accessories, asked and they said they'll have welders etc soon.

256491982229181846

23 Feb.

Fuck RA need to tell some of the places that drop ship for them to step up their packaging game!

Had an alternator delivered today, 2 little bags of air that had popped/never been inflated in the main box.

Nothing at all in the inner box.

Reg plug barely hanging on and a few dings in the alloy.

At least the refund process is super easy.

Edit: less than an hour later the refund is in my PayPal/on the way to my bank account.

5 minutes ago, brocky41 said:

Probably Y30 on would have those, all my 430's a H190 - Ive got a D21 Terrano diff still in the chassis that would be ok, disc brake rear.

Yeah my old RD28 Y30 has one, I got a R200 to swap the centre in but the seller was lying about it being an LSD and I lost all enthusiasm about doing it lol

1 hour ago, RUNAMUCK said:

Another cheaper option would be a C200. (Solid axle version of a shortnose R200) being 6 stud makes them pretty worthless. 

Can get them in 5 stud too from Glorias etc.

13 hours ago, RUNAMUCK said:

(Other cat is long deceased) 

Snowball II?

@yetchh

56 ohm 5w and 120 ohm 5w resistors for the 3rd gen Surf temp gauge.

Replace the factory resistor on the back of the gauge with the 120 ohm, replace the zenor diode with the 56ohm.

Been doing a bit more reading about it, it's not just 1kz vehicles with a factory "dead zone" in the gauge, it's most factory temperature gauges, but after a lot of people complaining/panicking about the needle fluctuating a lot in the earliest 1kz models Toyota went ham on the dampening.

10 minutes ago, Kimjon said:

Is the cert still valid, if the rego has expired? Assuming no changes are made, can you re register the vehicle and carry on?

"Vehicles modified or scratch-built, that have been de-registered (or licensing fees not paid for 12 months or more resulting in the vehicle's registration lapsing), do not need re-certification if they have their LVV certification plate affixed to the vehicle structure. Vehicles with a modification declaration certificate will need to be LVV Certified, as this certificate becomes null and void upon the vehicles registration lapsing. Vehicles that have only original manufacturers' equipment fitted or modifications done that are below the LVV Threshold need only have re-registration inspection and a VIN number issued, if required."

https://www.lvvta.org.nz/faq.html

7 hours ago, Truenotch said:

 Somehow this van appears to have magical powers and the temp has stayed below halfway throughout the whole summer of 3000+km. 

Look up the 1kz temperature gauge resistor mod.

Toyota fitted resistors to really slow the temp gauge down in the 1kz powered vehicles, by the time it actually does start to move above half things are real hot!

Sweet, I'm just missing the countersunk bolt.
Thinking of drilling it in line with one of the 2 bolts that hold the disc to the hub and using a longer bolt through the spacer and disc into the hub, if that'll pass/

Centers are snug on the spigot and the wheel bolts are at least 10 turns so that should be golden.

Slip on spacers = no go for cert right?
What about press on spacers and longer bolts?

Is the glass cracked badly in drivers field of view or barely held in with masking tape?

No?

It's fine.

Add the 10 blade fan from the late Hilux to that list too, big upgrade from the stock 7 blades.

/I'm personally now in the mindset of not changing oil in the viscous hubs and just replace with a good quality new one and the 10 blade fan, 99% sure the hub is what lead to having to pull the new head etc back off mine at @Geophy's place back in May, had fresh heavier oil in but the actual hub had failed even through it looked perfect inside and out.

Are these the later E throttle version or the cable to TB?

If cable type I bet the spindle seals are rock hard and leaking like fuck too.

I did EGR delete, intake clean out, catch can etc at the same time, made a rather noticeable improvement to economy.

Full 3" exhaust made an even bigger improvement, then injectors and slightly thinner headgasket when I did the head helped a LOT.

Think the last trip I did was averaging low 9L/100k open road with some decent hills and twisty bits etc thrown in, totally stock I think it was something closer to 14L/100k but that was nothing cause diesel was under 90c a litre ha.

1 minute ago, Truenotch said:

I have access to a 4wd dyno too... so mods will likely happen. Wouldn't mind unlocking some zututus. 

Butt dyno says my SC picked up a decent bit of mid range with the exhaust and it really improved fuel economy.

But even if it hadn't made more power, the extra turbo sounds were well worth the effort!

Seriously recommend getting the injectors rebuilt asap.

I bet it's never had them done in it's life.

Also full 3" exhaust ha 

15 minutes ago, smokin'joe said:

so Misti deffo didn't use a 'wiper control' relay like most Toyota did, to control this part of the switching ?

 

Yeah they did, park and intermittent.