cute wee gem

Got one gate mounted up today. These are also aliexpress specials at 130nzd for both shipped. Checked them over and they both seem to work sweet. I had good success with a china gate on the gem and I'm way too cheap/poor to pay 800+ for a couple of valves. I'll spend the money in more important areas & use an overboost spark cut if they do happen to fail. Couple of pics from tonight

I like the look of the turbo sitting up nice n proud, unfortunately I'm a retard and started with a GE, so there's a gigantor distributor in the way. Good one dick. Could always run GTE electronics but I'm too far in to change now.

Just to show I haven't fallen off the face of the earth. I gave up on my inlet manifold after lots of hours trying to get it looking good, no matter what I did it was going to sit too high and either foul the bonnet, or just look strange. So I sold out and Aliexpressed a 1jz manifold for 145nzd shipped. The design is quite good with internal bellmouths etc but the finish work was obviously quite bad, which I was expecting and didn't really bother me as I hacked it up anyway. I started by chopping the runners off it halfway and bent them to line up with the 2jz runners, which I also cut in half and welded on, ported runners and tidied up the chineseness. I then cut the 90mm throttle flange off and welded on a 83mm q45 TB flange at a better angle to suit the low bonnet. Made brackets for throttle cable, -8an fuel rail and welded in injector bosses for the ID1000 injectors. Made a flange for the Holset and fully welded the exhaust manifold. Please excuse my tig skills Just started on the wastegate mounting tonight hence the big hole under the flange Lots of purchases made lately after selling the Gemini last year. I'll take some snaps when I start building the engine in a month or 2 or 3 or 12 Looks like this as of tonight.

Crank the amps up to max and pretend you're drawing coils/circles with the weld pool. cleaner the better too This thing is cool. 1G ftw

Also this may be no help but is the ecu actually resetting or is it just stalling? I had a problem with my tps spiking massively but only on random occasions which caused the accel enrichment to go off and stall it while idling or buck while driving

Also gives you the reason you're getting sync loss. Copy and pasted the list if you haven't looked it up 0 = no problem 1 = init error 2 = missing tooth at wrong time 3 = too many teeth before missing tooth (last) 4 = too few teeth before missing tooth (last) 5 = 1st tooth failed test 6 = nonsense input (last) 7 = nonsense input (mid) 8 = too many teeth before missing tooth (mid) 9 = too few teeth before missing tooth (mid) 10 = too many teeth before end of sequence 11 = too few teeth before second trigger 12 = too many sync errors 13 = dizzy wrong edge 14 = trigger return vane size 15 = EDIS 16 = EDIS special wheels 20 = subaru 6/7 tooth 6 error 21 = subaru 6/7 tooth 3 error 22 = Rover #2 missing tooth error 23 = 420A long tooth not found 24 = 420A cam phase wrong 25 = 420A 26 = 420A 27 = 420A 28 = 36-1+1 29 = 36-2-2-2 30 = 36-2-2-2 31 = Miata 99-00 - 2 cams not seen 32 = Miata 99-00 - 0 cams seen 33 = 6G72 - tooth 2 error 34 = 6G72 - tooth 4 error 35 = Weber-Marelli 36 = CAS 4/1 37 = 4G63 38 = 4G63 39 = 4G63 40 = Twin trigger 41 = Twin trigger 42 = Chrysler 2.2/2.5 43 = Renix 44 = Suzuki Swift 45 = Vitara 46 = Vitara 47 = Daihatsu 3 48 = Daihatsu 4 49 = VTR1000 50 = Rover #3 51 = GM 7X

If you do a quick datalog and let the ecu reset by itself, then you can look back through to find if it's a sync loss or something.

You can see how Sinco and the likes charge so much, I've just made one also and they certainly take a lot of time and planning. Might go grab some pics of my effort

I'd chuck a wideband on it and check fueling on load to be sure. you might have to re-set fuel pressure lower with the bigger injectors so it runs proper AFR on load, then let the ecu richen it back up where it's 02 sensor can read properly on idle/cruise Or maybe I'm full of shit lol

Won't the fuel correction only be in the narrowband range? i.e cruise/idle but still run rich at WOT?

I'd give 1.6mm a shot and see what you think. The amps needed for 2-3mm alu doesn't really require the bigger tungsten but if it's not causing you trouble then stick with it I guess (arc wandering etc). When learning, using thicker filler wire makes life easier also. I'd drop about 20 amps and try that weld again, how thick is the piece you're practicing on?

What tungsten are you using? I find 1.6mm zirconiated (white tip) does the trick nicely on ~5mm

Yep, thin tungsten, less heat. grind tungsten to a point then let it ball up for aluminium

What's the deal with cutting holes for intercoolers? Just having a look at the jzx today and with keeping the AC there's not a lot of places to put the pipes. are the 2 pics below OK for cert? Will move battery to boot and come up through there also

He has the rubbers, just after the actual steel bracket part. Although the rubbers do look a bit knackered, so I'll keep that in mind if he needs em. Cheers

If it's no trouble would you be able to measure the gap between the sump and the crossmember for me or some other reference for engine height? If we make some mounts it would help to find the factory position. I'd be happy to sit it where it "looks good" but not sure his old man would like my approach.

Sweet as, 99% sure it'll be a Kent then, I don't know much about them either tbh.

Is yours a Kent? My dad's one also has round rubbers, but it's a V6 Seems like they're impossible to find. Might just have to make some if we can't find any.

Hey guys, my bosses son has got himself a MK1 Capri (Aus assembled) and can't find mounts for the 1600 Kent. We dummied up an escort mount and the angle where it would mount onto the crossmember is different. It also has rectangle rubbers which are part of the actual bracket itself where as his Capri crossmember has round rubbers. Is the English crossmember the same as the Aus ones and are the mounts different also? and do mounts from different cars fit? Cheers

Might be something to do with facelift models? facelift have a different crossmember for the engine so maybe that's why it didn't work for hachi-ichi

I have used the auto xmember on both w55 and the current r154, no drilling at all.

Should be a JZ going back in Good to see it went to someone on OS

^^ Excellent work man. Seen your red one driving through Masterton over the holidays too (assume it was you anyway) Can I ask where you work? Super jealous of your workshop facilities/skills

^ yep. I had a turbo with a cracked exh housing (from water going through it while hot during a blow up) - put it on the new engine and it shagged its bearing within minutes

yeah just bin it, not worth the hassle imo for a cheap turbo?