mk5corty

need a proper rotary buffer that spins at a few thousand, not a shit orbital one. 1200 grit the 2000 then meguires medium cut on a wool pad then meguires fine cut on foam and swirl mark remover on foam if need be. thats what i do anyways comes up mint, dont have to use meguires tho.

satin finish lol, hit it with a scotchbrite and have matte black woot.

got any colour left? do what i said then bung it on the car and coat of clear, should only be like 1lt of clear. 280ks pretty decent life tho lol.

Isnt that over twice the price of coby's then?. Got some brand new 4-1's off trademe woolf muffler brand prob shit as but cost me $80.

lol, if he cant be arsed buffing then hit it with like 400-600 and spray another coat of clear and leave it there, a bit orange peel but shiny. or you using SS? guts about the 20v

chrome, factory alloy, factory painted ?

wheres that exhaust site link, we had this discussion before and im sure we came to the conclusion that unless it is a well worked engine the differences are negligible.

bore AREA x stroke then x the number of cylinders so 9.24 x 9.24 x pi (3.14159) / 4 bore area = 67.055 stroke 7.695cm = 515.99 cc per cylinder =2063.965 std pinto bore 90.8 = 1993 cc

emails partsco.co.nz there site dont wanna work for me, they may be able to get you something.

extractors, exhaust, bigger carb, port work, maybe save up some more cash, like another grand and put the 2lt pinto in it, has been done before. Not actually sure on the cost tho may have to do alot yoruself for it to be cheap, are you up to it?

i love modgies

that would be aiding in a crime...

which has been photocopied onto the internet, very nicely i might add.

just make sure your primer build hides those scratches or sand with 320 before applying primer.

dug out some sweet panelbeater stz more the shit i took out

the cosworth rods are forged, not sure about the pistons but it ran a reasonable amount of boost for a factory car had like 224hp

think he meant bottom end internals, plus think he meant he has another cam apart from his fr32 that is so ruthless it doesnt fit etc. Go the cosworth rods and pistons, safe to 9000 redline, however the cranks only safe to 8500 and then you have to modify the block with regards to the oil feeds or some shit and got to get flywheel dowelled to stop it flying off.. Meh 200hp is about the limit a NA pinto head can flow even heavily ported. Some test on it a while back, pro guys couldnt get it over 197 i think it was.

Will depend on gun and pressure, what kind of gun? hvlp?. If yu are using single stage 2k then no clearcoat is needed but if you are using BC/CC then it is. You may want to get more colour if your not using clear as being a newb you are very likely to get orange peel. IF you want to sand and polish it out then you are removing some of the paint, the nore paint you have the less chance of cutting through when sanding. For windscreens slip a cord in behind it so they are raised then mask teh rubber off that way paint line is not on the windscreen seal, for windows its either take out the seals or spend a while masking. As for doors and bootlid i would take them off and spray them seperate from the but AT THE SAME TIME so the colour is exactly the same. Put primer down on one day, block sand it the next, spray all colour the next day, you may find imperfection you want to sand out so do that but make sure you sand the whole car with 600 grit if left for a while so there is no adhesion issues and then spray another coat of colour. If its prepped it can be done in 5 days part time or two days full time.

IF the paint is in good nick then sand allround with 320 or 400 grit, else remove the paint until you find good nick paint. Apply primer, can be done in stages like panel by pane or whole car up to you. Apply the 3 coats then sanding is done with 600grit wet till smooth. Then colour. Colour is best applied all at once same with clear, this makes sure colours are the same, you may put too many coats or too thick or conditions may slightly change the shade of your paint. You may have to apply the paint several panels a time if your compressor cant handle, i have two 2.5 40 litre compressors linked and it manages to keep up but one cant handle.

Remove old paint is the first step, so give the engine bay a good clean and if the old paint is in good nick then you can sand it with say 320 - 400 grit else use paint strippers but beware this will likely screw up any bog work. The you need to decide what kind of paint, lacquer or 2k(arcylic urethane generally), 2k is newer more durable etc but can be more expensive although not by much but it is more toxic so get a good respirator and chnage the SPRAY PAINTING catridges often. Lacquer is the same as the paint that is on there unless it has recently been repainted (last 5 years maybe last eight) and will not have any adesion problems provided sanding is right and the panel is clean. With 2k It is best to seal the old paint but not necessary although you run the risk of possible colour bleed through or average adhesion, this increase the cost. So which ever system you choose lay down the primer on your 400 grit sanded surface. MAking sure it ios throughly cleaned with wax and grease remover. Apply 3 good wet coats (20 mins in between), leave overnight and then sand with 600 until smooth, then apply colour usually 3 wet coats if going to use clearcoat 4-5 coats if not (you must use clearcoat with metallic finishes if you wish to sand and compound later or if using lacquer) Follow the flash times and apply the clearcoat, depends how you spray it may be a good enough finsih to just leave after 3 coats of clear. NOTE: if you are using 2k you use reducer and hardener as per instructions if using lacquer use thinners 1:1 or 1.5:1 with paint, plus use it to clean gun after.

More shit done, finally got the boot realively clean after about 6 hours of wax and grease remover sanding bogging etc heres the first coat down, run out of thinners so no more for now, had to put it down dry tho cos else was fishineying, i dont mind tho not gonna see it plus ill wax and grease remover it before i spray the wet coats. spilled some paint out of the gun when tilted too far. and heres another view, all in all im pleased looks way better than before plus i have cut a new boot mat out of leatherette vinyl, should be looking sharp, gotta do something for a bootlight cos my warehouse neon is teh suxorz.

I had guessed at what had caused it but not what the remedy was for the car as i couldnt see from underneath why it was leaning.

When i got it the rear was 4 inches off the ground, the springs and shockers had been severely squashed, it was a wood and coal trailer pretty much and the boot reflects this, maybe on a angled driveway and left wood in it for ages or something, meh. ps. could compress the old rear springs about 2-3 inches with my hands that how bad they were.

I use meguires clearcoat gold class wax on my chrome and a good hard rubbing with an old t-shirt unless its bad then i use autosol- its abrasive so dont use it too often.

yeah im hoping to get a whole lot of deflex bushes from the uk apparently their some of the cheapest urethane bushes around.