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Manual conversion all done now, its fucking insane

It was all 3500 shipped from christchurch, its definately a pull type clutch, i just checked and it has a big bearing thing on the other side of the pressure plate which the fork hooks on to. Picked up my ARP flywheel bolts today, they were listed as 4AGE ones, apparently they are the go.

Ill be pissed off if it isn't, first the brake pedal box didnt fit, then the flywheel bolts were too short and was missing the spigot bearing, so much for a "full conversion kit" if this clutch is wrong

I now have an extra pedal: And one of these: A couple of these: And also all these: Just waiting for my new flywheel bolts which have been ordered to arrive, then I can complete the conversion. Should be mean

Few more pics Have ripped off the rear wing, immediately improved looks 10x. Planning to paint the rims black or gunmetal shortly. Recently had some idle issues, either wouldnt idle, or idle at 2000rpm. It was the notorious ICV, I managed to solve the issues by taking it off and giving it a nice soak in wd40 Manual conversion is on the cards as well, as soon as I manage to get all the required bits. Anyone have a remote shift r154 kicking around ?

My mate runs the same scarles intercooler on his jzx100, he managed to tuck his behind the factory bumper nicely. Definately a difference in lag when compared to mine, which has quite a large one. On a side note, need a manual conversion for mine asap, so if you know of any parts going let me know

For sale, http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Mitsubishi/Galant/auction-258917991.htm

Saw 1 down my road today in swanson. Have a look in the top left hand corner of this photo, that silver thing is a jzx100. haha was probably me, I went out those ways to pick up something from tram valley rd yesterday

Haha yeah I reckon such a sweet car to drive, ive only seen 3 jzx100's out west auckland and two of them are in the driveway. Will probably start seeing heaps more now that I drive one. yeh definately taking the spoiler off when ive got some time. Manual conversion is definately on the cards, my flatmates got a manual one and driving that is like driving a completely different car.

So I now own a chaser, was such an impulse buy but its freckin' mean as. So pretty much as it stands: Factory Tourer V '98 1JZ-GTE automatic Tein adjustables Torsen LSD 19x8.5 front, 19x9.5 rear Full straight through stainless exhaust Greddy frontmount intercooler Juran front strut brace Gay purple bov Sard air filter Blitz boost guage body kit (probably change the rear bar at some stage) rear wing (probably remove this shortly though) Tints

Ive read this somewhere on here, had a quick squiz but couldnt find it. What is the rules with mounting fuel lines? How often does it need to be attached with a p clamp?

I know of a dude using some sort of subaru pistons in his turbo pinto, he was also saying hes getting custom rods made up to suit though, ill ask him next time i see him.

Took for a wof today, after not having one for over a year. Failed on some bullshit, brake lights apparently werent working which they were. Also lug nuts arent screwed onto enough thread apparently, so i just chucked the trident noodles on. Recheck tomorrow, then i can start piecing together all my bits.

This is my daily, got it given to me in a complete shit heap of a state, blown engine etc and i gave it the once over. People always call it a vr4, but its actually a vx-s ( fwd/high comp engine/vr4 trim ) although just has a normal 4g63 in it now. Manual, 17 inch dtm's, extractors etc, cut springs/shortend shocks lowerage and a cert to wrap it up. As it was As it stands now

I have increased the size of the lines before the efi pump to 3/8 so that should help solve any problems. Next question, heaps of people are going on to be about how i must use a double flare on the ends of the bundy tube. Now i can understand why you might need them if you are using flare nuts in your fuel setup, but i had thought that i would just go with the rubber lines slipped over the bundy with a hose clamp or two with a wee flare on the end to help it stay on. Is this going to be safe? or is it dodgey for efi pressure lines?

I asked my flatmate, he said his electronic idle sensor was broken, so he blocked it off at the plenum and then adjusted the idle via the throttle butterfly.

My flatmate just done the same/similar conversion to his chaser 1jzge -> 1jzgte and had the same 4000rpm idle issue, but did solve it in the end. Ill find out what he done.

Lift pump is a holley blue and the other is from a VL on the net i have found Holley specs: Flows 110 GPH (free flow) Flows 88 GPH at 9 PSI VL specs Minimum Flow @ Outlet: 32 GPH High Pressure Operating Pressure: 43.5 PSI So kind of looks like it will be fine, although i wonder how much pressure 5/16 fuel line will add to the holley and whether it will drop below the 32gph of the vl pump.

So found out the cortina actually had 5/16 in and out of the fuel sender, so my next question is... Am I going to run into any problems running my whole fuel setup with 5/16 fuel line? eg, 5/16 between fuel tank and lift pump, between lift pump and surge tank, between surge and efi pump and then to the fuel rail, 5/16 return also. Is is better to have lets say, 3/8 on the low pressure system so its feeding a higher volume? or doesnt it matter too much as most of the high pressure fuel gets returned to the surge tank anyway? Who has any knowledge with this?

Photo of some bits n pieces

Im pretty sure you will need to get an ecu to run the fueling side of things, doubt the falcon ecu will be of any help being that they are on engines twice the size.

yeh as long as you arent insanely low like i had mine at one point - (shit pic) driveshaft just keeped banging into the back of the box constantly haha yeh gearstick is in the same place, although i found that the edges of the mounting plate for the gearstick banged into the tunnel occasionally.

Been a long time Have been gathering a few parts slowly- EFI manifold megasquirt (MS1 v2.2) holley blue fuel pump vl fuel pump surge tank vr4 intercooler Plan is to get the car running n/a efi first then add the supercharger into the mix. First thing is i need to run new fuel lines down the car which i will be doing once ive decided on the exact fueling setup.

Yep as he said ^^ Although, if you car is lowered heaps you will need to shorten the driveshaft. Auto crossmember will work by slotting a couple of the holes. Standard speedo cable will "just" stretch if your smart about it. Gearstick hole needs to be cut back a little bit around the edges as well.

By the book its 8 degrees btdc