escortwags

good to know!

Yuh found out about this little trick after the fact mates about to do the same, so do you literally just go to a VTNZ and fill out some paper work or what?

the process is evil! I went/am going VIN/COMPLIANCE - got vin number - failed compliance REPAIR CERT CERT CERT RECHECK VIN/COMPLIANCE - have to pay full price as way out of the 21 day recheck threshold REGO BURNOUTS

Cheers dude Time is of the essence so will see how I go. I do know old BG have the standard 2 month wait which is not ideal

GAAAAH can someone give me a link to these god dam supremes they will be legal in NZ???? All I can find are the welded ones not the cast version!

Cheers guys Yet another reason why knock off versions of the original wheels are shit I guess These were the wheels in question by the sounds of it they ain't no good http://www.trademe.co.nz/639996938

hmmm cheers, so get pictures of the back first then I guess? ps. second link aint working

Hello sir Is it true that Astro Supremes CANNOT be certed? This will decide my next wheel purchase Thanks

faaaaaaancy God you have lots to do, we've spent the last 5 months just trying to get it registered!! Nah the back wont go low enough without a small notch (really small) well it is low (see pic) but i want it's arse actually on the ground showing no gap. Fronts an issue on the old X-chasis as things to hit first are either the exhaust or the 350turbo's sump which farking sux, but oh well. 64's seem alot easier to lay frame with then dutry ol 61's well they seem way lower due to sweeter bumpers Should be able to source some decent height bumpstops to pass the whole cert scrub line deal if it turns to shit and got a flat tyre and popped bag at the same time but yeh next thing to hit in the back is the petrol tank which is a bit of a worry so getting bash bars made up for now then later down the track will either make it smaller or run a fuel cell to be safe.. Disclaimer, exhaust has been changed since this photo to come out before rear wheel, really keen to paint those wheels as well (still think wires might look better)

most of its was saved/ok, although not a perfect paint job to start with (never get satin!) Got pissed when they had to grind both rear quarters back to bear steel for him just to look at what's underneath and say "that looks fine"!! AHHHH so had both rear quarters re-sprayed drivers side panel behind door, both sills, full sandblast underneath and underseal, boot blasted and undersealed, new passenger footwell and chassis pulled slightly passenger front corner (bumper support was dented in about 10mm, oh and the thing pumped with about 50 tons of fish oil. Plus the rest of it! inside rear quarters, behind door trims etc. COST $$$$$ Still havent got the car back yet as its at SDPcustom, getting bash bars made, broken shock mounts replaced, drop spindles, small c-notch etc. (all the pretty stuff) So hoping like hell it flys through cert and its next compliance check as we have replaced EVERYTHING and has a repair cert for basically every panel on the car. If your after drag blocks these are the best I could find after googling for many many many days on end (plus pre-drilled) http://www.waylayedinc.com/Waylayed2010/ww/products/Waylayed-Titanium-Drag-Blocks-without-brackets.html

looking good bro glad your making progress. I fucking hate rust and shitty american repairs! We are still getting arse reemed on our belair, its just come out of a 4 month stint at a panel beaters/repair cert place (he basically went to f**king town on it) way more stuff needing stripping and re-repairing than what I thought... But yeh I'm guessing your sussing this already but get a repair cert now!! otherwise they will just make you strip back everything to check your repairs when going for compliance (he took over 250 of our cars repairs and it was no where near as bad) lololol We are also trying to sort ours for beach hop so shall lay some titanium sparks past you if I see this there

if you like fancy wiring geek shit follow @racespec on istagram and prepare to get your mind blown!! Don't know many people that can make wires look like candy

Thanks for your help

dear great brain of wisdom (Clint) please riddle me this. Would a 61 belair (x-chasis) need drive shaft loops as its had a 355 chev plonked in it's hole? Only asking as the "X" covers 70% of the drive shaft Also any recommendations on a place in Auckland I can go to get compliance and cert from people that care? (had taken it to a compliance place that since collecting the car to fix a few things had curbed two wheels and rounded a wheel nut - don't want to go back) (sample pic below) Thanks x

definitely an earth issue, had the same kind of thing on the belair...replaced/cleaned ALL earth contacts and now all is well

Just had a similar problem in the belair Indicators on would make all sorts of shit flash, eg. gauge lights brake lights basically all up the shit. After many days fucking around under the dash all it turned out to be was dodgey earths (bulb casing earthed through car but was a shit connection) rigged up proper earths through the bulb casing and WHAMO everything is mint. Issue was if only one bulb had a shit earth the electrikery would then find the next route which happened to be the the gauges in the dash and everything else to give it a xmas tree effect. So yeh do all earths before getting crazy

It runs Muda farka!!!! Now to go terrorise streets on this fine day

Yeh thought so to, literally goes brap brap brap brap brap burrrrrr turn over noises. Lasts the exact time the spray in there would. Hmmm almost home so will clean jets etc in carb and report back. Plugs are brand new Etc and have massive spark

Been trying to get my brm brm car going the last two nights and are dam close using a batty base map that I've fiddled around with, its goes brap brap but only with start ya bastard! Going to give IDA a good clean tonight, but was wondering if anyone had a map I can load? my guess is being a PP the timing should be quite a bit different for the firing. Only running a lightning so just ignition only. Thanks or no thanks

might be useful in regards to masters, have bleed mine up and they feel boss! specs are as follows all on a floor mount pedal box (bar handbrake) front - FC3S 4 piston - Tilton .625 master rear - S14 silvia single piston - Tilton .75 handbrake - Tilton .75 clutch - Tilton .70 Wouldn't want it any harder on the front brakes unless you had popeye legs

http://www.autometer.com/productPDF/1244.pdf have you clipped the wires on the back?

^ what he said plus sticker from motorsport nz saying "warning blablabla" stuck somewhere visible ie. dash plus chocks kept in car plus must be able to lock in place somehow (eg. the china ones on trademe) and has to work within their testing specs

Im guessing if you have no wof and reg you just need to be tech inspected?

hmmmmm, soooo 'Ive just bought 14ft of that expensive as shit XRP black braid line, does this mean I cant run it all under the car? If no then I'm guessing it cant run in the car either? and the third question.. will any of that matter if my cars going to have a Motorsport NZ Authority Card?

"stop smoke", get it at ripco or whatever, worked a treat on an old smokey hilux many moons ago (not that great for the motor though Iv'e been told)