eke_zetec_RWD

Ohh I see pic. Nah that's a bit shit fit a. Sell them to some drift queen and buy some wilwoods or something with much wider holes. Eg wilwood dynalite have 133mm ish hole centres

Should be able to split the calipers and machine them down to correct width. Also please post pic. May need to rotate the caliper around a bit to make room to make an adaptor.

If it's fuming a lot when decelerating I'd be looking at ring tension. Or poor fitting rings in Pistons. Over run can create a poor ring seal with really wide rings.

Id bolt one set in and measure it up with internal micrometer. Then do the same with the other set. Then fingers crossed one set is obviously the correct set.

Lol that's a big call

That would be silly

I can recommend m90 on a 2.0L engine is a good thing

Hahaha

Sorry thought you had ditched the distributor. Should be straightforward. Pull fuel pump fuse then Lock timing in Ecu and adjust dizzi until its matching. Then just try starting it and adjust master until it goes. Then dyno time

Yea 4-1 would be a bit all over the show!

Hmmm I doubt that will work. Needs a sync trigger to run wasted spark. Does it have 2 trigger sensors?

Think the scrap bins are full tho? Jokes

Sooo first tests done. 38.1mm tube Max 38.1 Min 37.8 44.5mm tube Max 44.5 Min 43.8 Pretty happy with this!

Side is fine to bend as far as I know. A lot are that I have seen. Mine need to be too

That's pretty bloody good!^^

Nope

Quick survey. Please fill out if you have a caged car. I'm making cage tube formers and want to make sure they are the best around. 38.1mm tube.... Max width accross bend =.......... Min width inside bend =.......... 44.5mm tube Max width accross bend = Min width inside bend = This should be recorded on your logbook Cheers Jason

Wait, iat should only ever get that high if you are thrashing the shit out of it for ages and its heatsoaked everything. Under normal driving if it's that high move air filter

Wack some extra fuel in at +60deg iat to cool charge down? Not less?

Sooooo, been a busy past couple months but been chipping away at this. Since I made some big dog radiators for it the nose cone failed to fit anymore. But in true race car you must modify everything with no allowance for body work and then make the body fit. So i ended up cutting the nose cone in half horizontally and adding in about 80mm to lower the chin. Then i fixed all tthe cracks from the crash i had a few years ago, then bogged and sanded then bogged and sanded then bogged and sanded then bogged and sanded then bogged and sanded then bogged and sanded then bogged and sanded then bogged and sanded then bogged and sanded then bogged and sanded then bogged and sanded then bogged and sanded then bogged and sanded then bogged and sanded then bogged and sanded untill it was correct and back to where i wanted it. Then I primed it and wet and dried it, Then I primed it and wet and dried it again. Then i waxed it then i painted it with tooling coat then i fibreglassed over that to make a mould. Then finally today i got to actually make a finished product from it! Its come out pretty good. So i might just run it as is for now. Looks quite cool in white i think.

Assuming fuel pressure is constant?Could log pressure and pulse width together

Ohh really! Fuck that

Gone of the days of my first link that had 5 rows I think. Still managed to tune quads with a supercharger blowing on them via tps only haha.

Yea once I reved my pinto to 45000 rpm and it also had a dip. I have found Map, when tuned correctly, works perfectly fine under all conditions. ( except with huge cams and quad throttles )

Lol that's awsome!