DJZ

Got it going again tonight, was hoping to get it ready for the warrant recheck tomorrow but didn't quite get there. Fuel pump wiring was interesting, somebody had been there before. The ground wire has a braided shield around it by the looks of it for some reason? Might be to do with the fuel pump controller thingy. The blue wire is the +12V for the pump, it's really tiny. I'll use these to switch a relay running heavier wire from the battery later. Fuel pump setup for now. I'll probably change it a bit further down the line once it's legal. New sway bar bushes and outer tie rod end. Still need to do: Bleed the brakes and hope they work okay Put the headlight stalk unit back on and hope that I've fixed the headlights! Put the steering wheen back on Put the car back on the ground and do up the wheels & lower control arm bolt A skid

Lots of room up the front for a turbo or two...

Well I gave in to peer pressure, pity it's the cleanest looking thing in the engine bay now! My fuel line piece that I made up isn't going to work as it is, it needs to be more like a 90 degree which I think will crush if I try to do it. Might have to have another play with the bender and maybe do it in two bends?

Got all the bits to put it back together now: Rocker cover, I got it hot tanked, it came up pretty good, couple of little bits of paint I still need to get rid of. I'm not sure what I'm going to do about the writing, I thought it was raised so I could just tape over it and paint but it's recessed, might have to tape over the whole raised bit and then paint in the recessed bits with a brush? Got the lower ball joint back yesterday, they've put a new boot on the outer tie rod end which I'm replacing anyway and have given me a spare boot for the inner which I'll chuck on. Made this up last night for the fuel pump, the welding looked better before I ground it back to redo it. I haven't swaged the other end, it's only low pressure but I might put a couple of little tacks on there so the hose won't fall off.

Made up an adaptor after work today to mount the pump bracket onto the original mounting plate that bolts to the floor of the car. It's mounted but it's a bit of a tight squeeze, I'll try and get a pic tomorrow. Discovered a problem though, I've measured the fuel line and it's only 10mm coming out of the tank all the way to the pump, the rubber line between the metal line and the pump is actually stretched over the 12mm barb on the pump from the factory by the looks of it. I've got some ali tubing so I'll make up an adaptor from 10 to 12mm tomorrow. I'm picking up the rocker cover from being hot tanked tomorrow, I just have to find an oven big enough to fit it in after I paint it. There's a small chance my lower ball joint will be done tomorrow but probably next week.

It's been ages since I've updated this, I've pretty much just been driving it around and putting up with squealy brakes and knocking in the rear end under acceleration mostly in 1st gear. The brake rotors are getting skimmed at the moment, should have them back tomorrow - I've got new pads to go in with them and hopefully that'll fix the front brakes! The knocking in the rear from what I can tell has been from the outside of the companion flanges/axle flanges hitting on the body as per this picture: I did a bit of research and it appeared that the 3x2 flanges were smaller on the OD than the 4x1 flanges, it turned out to only be about 5mm but I thought that might be enough, so I got some off NZeder complete with axles ex Jap R31. Now if I'd had a good look at everything first I would have realised that the R31 axles are a little bit longer than the Z31 axles, now the Z31 axles were already a tight fit so it looks like the R31 axles probably aren't going to fit. I ran out of time to have a really good look but from a quick measure they are 20 - 30mm longer on both sides, by the time I realised I'd already got to this point - it's not tight tight as my torque wrench doesn't go high enough, I'll have to borrow one from work. I suppose I could just knock the crap out of the lip part where it looks like it's been hitting, I'll have another look tomorrow.

Are you sure the dipstick tube doesn't come out? The RB ones are just pressed in, CA should be similar?

Just saw this, yeap that's where I'm referring to, there's a big empty space there. The car has Bilstein shocks in the back and very possibly something aftermarket in the front. Do the struts themselves usually have hoses running to them or something from this controller?

$21 bucks delivered!

Drained the diff oil while I was under there, it was a bit of a mission getting the back of the car onto the ramps, I had to let some air out of the tyres so I could get them under the wheels hah. Anyway, the oil was red and looked reasonably clean but I'll change it anyway. Removed the original fuel pump, it had really tiny wiring going to it so I might have to do something about that. First problem was the new pump has what looks like a 5/8" inlet, I managed to stretch some 1/2" fuel line over it, I think it'll be fine for the moment. Second problem is the new pump doesn't fit in the old holder which I was expecting so I've just bought one of these brackets, just have to wait for it to turn up. The old pump is about 54mm OD, new pump is 60mm.

Drained the diff oil while I was under there, it was a bit of a mission getting the back of the car onto the ramps, I had to let some air out of the tyres so I could get them under the wheels hah. Anyway, the oil was red and looked reasonably clean but I'll change it anyway. Removed the original fuel pump, it had really tiny wiring going to it so I might have to do something about that. First problem was the new pump has what looks like a 5/8" inlet, I managed to stretch some 1/2" fuel line over it, I think it'll be fine for the moment. Second problem is the new pump doesn't fit in the old holder which I was expecting so I've just bought one of these, just have to wait for it to turn up. The old pump is about 54mm OD, new pump is 60mm.

Did the Mazda ratchet chain tensioner mod today, little bit fiddly but pretty easy. Original at the top, Mazda one at the bottom after I removed the rubber pad. The little spring right at the bottom is part of the ratchet mechanism, yes, I did put it back in Gasket in the hole, you can see at the bottom right it's just touching on part of the casting Used the die grinder to put a bit of a chamfer on the tensioner body to clear the casting The guides I found on the next said to cut the spring down to 53mm, I'm not really sure why they suggest you cut it that short, I measured the overall length of the original plunger and spring then cut the new spring down to make them the same length, I removed about 6mm of spring. And then I forgot to take a picture of the finished installation but you get the idea. After dinners mission is to start on the fuel pump swap.

The GTR ones are clutch in the R32s, they go a bit funny in the other cars I think they get some electronics added to some of them. They have different spline shafts so there might be a bit of dicking around there, I think James had to change some bits but don't quote me on that.

Slim pickings on Trademe at the moment but there's this one: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/diffs-axles/auction-487296844.htm And I'm pretty sure James (85_Z31) used the centre out of a GTR diff in his car, you'd be best to check with him if you want to go down that road. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/diffs-axles/auction-486550146.htm Physically they are easy to fit in a long nose housing, you just need some spacers for the crownwheel bolts and to get it set up again, I didn't have the know how to do it so I paid a shop down here, it was $50 for the first diff and $60 for the 2nd.

How much are you wanting to spend? I had my Kaaz 2 way built for about $600.

Got these sweet fittings today, they are aluminium. I got them so I can keep the check valve that comes on the Bosch pumps, no check valve = have to keep cranking till fuel gets back up to the rail. Here's a bad picture of the patch, I can't really get in there to get a good photo. Master back in place, I have to put the wiper motor back in, I've just given it a little coat of paint. You can see the outline on the strut tower where there was probably a strut brace back in the day. I replaced the fuel filter tonight, it was a JECS one so might be factory? Also confirmed the ignition leads were made in 1992.

Got the brake master cylinder back and painted the booster, the booster itself it pretty pitted but it's at the bottom so you can't really see it. I'll keep my eyes out for another one and if I ever take the motor out (which I think I'll have to do at some stage) I'll swap it over. Reinstalled the booster and master last night, I really hate trying to get under the dash to get the clevis pin & r clip back in, what a pain in the ass but it's all bolted back together, just need to put the reservoir back on and fill/bleed it. I wire brushed as best as I could the area around the steering box where the master has been dripping on to and put some rust killer on it, I'll probably give it another wire brush and another coat of rust kill before I primer/paint it. Also found a very odd looking patch where it looks like some rust has been cut out in front of the steering box on the inner guard, it's been patched but hasn't been painted on the engine bay side, can't really see anything on the wheel well side so hopefully they haven't just patched over the rust. There's not much that I can do about it without taking the engine out (which I think they probably would have had to do to put the patch in there in the first place). Makes me wonder who complied it when it came into the country and if it was there before that. Still waiting to get the lower ball joint back from being reconditioned, should hopefully have it back sometime next week then I can get it back in for the recheck. I still haven't had a good look at the head lights but I had to take the steering wheel off to get under the dash so I might just swap the indicator stalk unit for the spare I've got.

If it's a Passage it'll be a Jap spec one, looks like it was probably a non turbo so there's a smallish chance it'll have an LSD. I probably would have kept it under my hat that there might be an R200 LSD for $70 judging by what the last one sold for on Trademe

All I've got to say is Jesus you're a brave man. And nice FJ55

How's the Z coming along?

What's the bolt hole spacing for the caliper mount and how big are the rotors? Do you know if the rotors are the originals off those struts?

Remember when I said looks like it's almost impossible to get the brake booster out of a DR without removing the inlet manifold or possibly the steering box? Pow - almost impossible but not quite. Can you tell the master cylinder has been leaking? Took the rocker cover off to get it stripped and painted, haven't decided on a colour yet but it'll either be wrinkle coat black or red, I'm leaning towards black. Not a lot in there once you get the rocker cover off! Also it looks like the car has a full Motec Systems exhaust. I mean HKS. Note: for competition purposes only!

It's pretty awesome, it's the first turbo 4 cylinder that I've owned and when it's running right it's great. You're more than welcome to take it for a drive once it's legal if you want?

I've been thinking and I'm just going to get the original master cylinder rebuilt, it seems like the best option at the moment. Had a bit of a play with the bulbs as well, I think it's something dicky in the headlight switch that's causing the problem, when I was playing with it before if I turned the lights on the LH light was dim but when I pushed the indicator down by mistake the light came right, but when I tried it again later it wouldn't. The new bulbs seem about the same on low beam as the +50s in the Z but brighter on high beam that the Z bulbs and the original Skyline bulbs, the original Skyline bulbs seem brighter on low beam than both the others. So what I've done is put the new bulbs in the Skyline and I've put the old blueish bulbs from the DR into the Z. Will drive around for a while and see what I think, might end up swapping between the cars.

I saw this and thought of you, seems a bit expensive but I don't know what they normally go for? http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/parts-other-makes/other/auction-483088684.htm