DJZ

Not following, what's the question?

I highly recommend you do a skid. How does it run with that computer with the big injectors etc etc?

The Autometer tach should work fine off the computer or the ignitor depending on which one you are using, I had to run the tach in my Z off the Link ignitor originally.

How about a VH45 and two turbos?

Insert VQ, do a skid.

Well you're comparing an engine that started production in the '60s that started off with 140hp to one that came around 30 years later with 300+. I don't think any even slightly worked L series engine would really ever be considered refined. I'll probably never forget the ride that I had in Vaughn's (classicdat) L28 carbed 260Z race car though, the sound it made, the smell of petrol, it was pretty awesome.

Hah yeah, I could be a little biased. I haven't heard many N/A VQs but my mate has a VQ30DET it sounds alright but not a good as a straight 6. That's not really a bad price, you wouldn't get a RB26 + rear drive box for much under that, if at all. Does that come with the factory computer & loom etc? From memory if you are going to run the standard computer you'll need the ignition barrel and all that jazz. You'll probably need to pay GST on that as well?

Now that I can't agree with.

Was it Sign Formula in East Tamaki that you tried?

What did you order?

So far I've reattached the ID plate, put some more of the Redline friction modifier in the diff, taken the gearbox mounts out again, took about an hour to undo 3 of the nylock nuts so I bought a 17mm ratchet spanner to speed up the process. I've made up some gussets and tacked them into place, just have to check with the Hoff to make sure they are okay. Bought some black heat wrap as I thought that would look better in the engine bay than the light coloured stuff. Looking into turbo beanies, again I want a black one but it's hard to figure out which ones are shit and which ones aren't. Probably going to go with this one: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=448297243

I think it's pretty much just to say that I didn't do the welding myself, I could have if I'd shown him my welding skills first but it wasn't really worth it for 4 welds.

Yeah, but if I spent the same money on modding the VQ which starts at 300HP then I'm still ahead right? And it's lighter etc. And getting the RB26 to work means custom sump and different gearbox of course. But if I go the VQ route then I'd be getting 300HP stock, which is how I plan to do it at first. Then look at mods further down the line if I think I need them. If you've seen how he's had to do the engine mounts on that blue 240Z I think modifying an RB sump would be the least of your worries, I would definitely talk to a certifier first about what you can do with mounting it as it's going to sit well behind the factory cross member. It's going to be an awesome project! Just try and get as new an engine and gearbox as you can, from what I've read the early 6 speeds had some problems.

With a bit more compression and the right cams an N/A RB26 would be getting pretty close in power to a VQ35. Pretty sure Rocky Auto reckon their N/A RB30 builds are over 300hp and the RB will rev higher too.

Also, is there actually much difference between the front and rear drive motors apart from the intake manifolds? You can get a front drive VQ35 pretty cheap. http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/nissan/engines/auction-448421283.htm

The twin inlet HR motors are pretty cool but I don't think you'd be disappointed with a standard VQ35. A VQ30DET could be another option?

That's pretty distinctive, will keep an eye out.

Took the car in for cert today, failed on a few things but nothing to serious which is awesome! 1. Exhaust is sitting on the rear crossmember. I knew about this but didn't have time to fix it before today. It's not really the crossmember, just a plate thing that runs between the chassis rails. 2. Need to fit a heat shield to the turbo. Will just buy a turbo beanie I think. 3. Need to heat wrap the downpipe. Already have the wrap and already had planned to do it. 4. Fit a bracket to my vacuum tank and change the fuel hose that I used to vacuum hose. Easy enough. 5. Weld gussets to the gearbox mounts. This is the most annoying one but still an easy fix. 6. Diff is too tight. I'll add a bit more of the Redline limited slip additive which should fix that. 7. Wheel alignment report. Already done, forgot to give it to him. 8. Chassis/VIN# tag. Got this at home, chassis number is on the firewall but I'll refit it anyway. 9. Need a letter regarding the welding of the engine mount & gearbox mounts. Easy as.

Hmm, he showed me one ages ago, it looked pretty offical and he said it's a standard thing. I'll get one off him tomorrow and see.

Is the form you need to fill out regarding the modifications to the car before cert available online? I can't seem to find it on the LVVTA website.

Hah thanks man.

I've got a plastic battery box with one of the normal lids with lots of spaces for the wires to come out of, might have a look at making a new sealed lid for it of out steel. If not I might just buy one of the sealed acid free batteries.

Well shit. Where might I acquire a sealed battery box? I've done a bit of searching but pretty much all the ones that come up aren't sealed. I've actually got a track day on Thursday so I'm just checking with the organizer as to what I can get away with. Might have to borrow my mates sealed gel battery for it hah.

It's going to remain a road car and uncaged, at a quick glace most of the events I'd be looking at doing say things like "All batteries shall be securely mounted and have the live terminal adequately covered." or "bolted down battery". I did think about running another strap across the other way as well. Do you think it's not good because it's aluminium or ?

Wastegate pipe, you can't see it that well but above the downpipe to the top right is where it joins back in. Just about finished my battery tray today, decided I'd create a new alloy I've named stainuminium when I picked up the wrong filler rod, whoops. I need to get some rubber to put under the top piece to put some downward pressure on the battery. This is where it lives, in the spare wheel well on the right hand side of the car. Power steering cooler mounted. This is how the car is sitting at the moment and how it'll be sitting when certed, don't really want to go any lower. Got some wheel aluminium wheel nuts off my mate, they hide the long studs on the rear and I either needed open nuts on the front or really long nuts because the studs in my legal wheel spacers are quite long too. I think the colour of the nuts suits the centres quite well. This is what I do when I'm not working on my car, this setup when it's finished can lift 2400 tons and will be lifting one of the new Christchurch motorway bridges in a couple of weeks.