rxtoy

i definitly prefer the lexus v8's too, but if you want to learn a carbied engine will make things a hell of a lot easier, and the rover v8's can be made to look damn nice too (although i'm sure its got a lot to do with the kind of car surrounding it, in this case at least ): cheers Matt

try having a look around the web, http://www.thedropshop.co.nz and flr hydraulics (can't remember website) are auckland based and should be able to get what you need (if they're available) or you could import from overseas fairly easily. sites i've been checking out lately are http://www.burnincustoms.com and http://www.airide.com.au from overseas, both would be more than happy to import to nz. cheers Matt

very cool, loving the boso styles. couple of questions: 1. where'd you get the wheels (and how much), mmmm, deep dish ssr's, japanese style 2. where'd you get the rear tyres fitted, i heard they need special equipment to stretch tyres over the rims like that, just wondering if its true 3. any problems with rubbing??? 4. and any problems with police?? has it been through a wof like that??? cheers Matt

its not EX1800, they've got this stupid little boost guage on them which doesn't show how much boost, just whether its on boost or vacuum. you'd be lucky to find a binnacle without the extra's that actually has a rev counter, maybe you could pull the plastic off the front (not too hard from memory) and black out what you don't need along with removing needles and shit. cheers Matt

try replacing your thermostat, they do stop working at the optimum temp sometimes, so it might not be opening until you get up to 190 and then closing once it slips below. i had a similar problem with my lancer, was a pretty easy fix. electric fans are a definite bonus too but unless you haven't actually got one then its not going to take care of the amount of heat you've got. what sort of car is it for??? you could try fitting a bigger radiator, its not exactly a major hassle to do. cheers Matt

i always thought that they changed over mid ke2*, as in the earlier ones had 4x110 and the later had 4x114.3. could be wrong, it happened once cheers Matt

its the same as the engine bay pic of my car i sent you RT, the ECI unit on the passenger side (my car) is at the front of the engine bay (fwd car's) and has two large injectors mounted inside it. the air is forced through just like a blow through carb setup and the fuel is injected in the ECI unit then down through the inlet ports into the engine. like defective says its more like an electronic carb, heaps safer for turbo though. cheers Matt

late model radiators are a good way to go, smaller with heaps better cooling ability. a mate chucked an EK civic radiator (i knew honda's were good for something) in his turbo 4age conversion (space issues with FWD) and its way more than enough to do the job. its about half the size compared to the one that came out too. if you want to get your radiator recored though its doable, will just cost a bit. i haven't investigated too much but 2-300 seems to be the normal price if there's a stock core that will fit your end tanks otherwise you're looking at around double that. cheers Matt

not a problem, i'd like a look at your colt too if you've still got it??? i'll pm you my phone number to organise something, maybe on the weekend??? the cars in glenfield, manuka road ish and not legal but could probably take it for a quick spin. cheers Matt

i'm pretty sure that the RWD turbo engines have the skinny bellhousing pattern (mine does), just like the non turbo one's. the L200 rwd engines have the wide one so they will bolt up to a VR4 engine (seen it done) but not the sohc turbo engines. there may be variations, apparently there are late model starion engines that have the wide pattern, but its not just all the 12 valve engines cause i know someone running an EX1800 gearbox with a 12 valve. there seem to be quite a few variations, i'd double check by matching stuff up (make a template if its too heavy) before buying things. cheers Matt

ok, quick list for SOHC 4G63BT -engine out of turbo starion, rwd turbo galant/sigma. -g'box out of the above cars or EX1800 (if you can find a wrecked one), you will need to cut the floor or swap the shifter from a lancer EX box (doable but requires opening up the gearbox) -mounts not too sure about 1200's but the stock 1600 engine and gearbox mounts worked fine for me, along with the crossmember. there is a locating pin that you'll need to grind off or use the mounts that are on the engine when you grab it. -rear diff, EX1800 is ideal but pretty hard to find, it will bolt into place but you'll need the handbrake cables that come with it. there's a fairly good chance of it having an LSD centre too if you find one. there are also sigma's with the right diff, some have drum and some have disc brakes but the centre is still bigger than your stock poo 1200 diff. -driveshaft, mine came with the EX1800 gear i've got so went straight into place, its a two piece but the bolt holes are already in the floor of the car. you could try using the sigma one, i wouldn't have a clue if it will work, i know your 1200 one won't though cause the gearbox and diff are both longer. -loom, mine's from an EX1800, anything else would probably be a bitch to do but heaps easier than starting from scratch. i've got wiring diagrams if you want them but they're not the easiest things to use. -clutch master cylinder, not too hard to swap from cable to hydraulic, or apparently (caboonatlarge knows more about this than me) you can use a cable box out of a galant???? all of this is pretty much bolt in, it doesn't get any easier. i'm planning quite a few mods though once its certed which is where the fun starts. there is a multipoint injection setup that will bolt up (there's a couple actually but only one that faces the right way) but you need an aftermarket computer to run it, also a front mount intercooler (as opposed to none for most of the above mentioned cars) will help a lot. the stock computer can handle up to 10 psi (from memory) before it will boost cut but you don't even really want to run that much til you've got an i/c in there. i'm getting about 7 with everything stock and it goes pretty good, haven't really given it death yet though, too many cops, no wof/ref/cert, can't afford any more fines. if you want to do a dohc conversion i know a bit of stuff about that too, just ask. hope it helps Matt

there's pics and info on my EX lancer conversion floating around on this site somewhere, plus under 81 mitsubishi lancer on car domain, ah what the hell, i've got nothing better to do: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/683108/1 & http://www.oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewto ... =back+road cheers Matt

a mate of mine has got a datsun ute with the rear window all stickered up, 100mm from the top and 100 from the bottom, leaves about 3 or 4 centimetres in the middle. he's been asked about it a few times but its legal so they can't do a lot. cheers Matt

good point, off the top of my head ....................... i'll have a look tomorrow. might have one though, the RWD turbo galant at pickapart i mentioned in another thread should have the right one, i'll be going to have a look on thursday to see what sort of condition its in, will probably grab it anyway cause even if its stuffed it will be perfect for a recore. cheers Matt

i know its a longshot but does anybody know a good bolt in (or close to) radiator with the inlet and outlet in the right place for an EX??? mine's overheating so i'm looking for something with 2-3 cores preferably i can handle modifying brackets to make it fit but i DO want the inlet and outlet pretty damn close to where they are stock so i don't have to mess around too much. just trying this before i take the measuring stick out to pickapart for a look, cheers Matt

its pretty hard to find a set of seats that fit better than the factory ones, i've got series 6 rx7 ones going into my TA23 but they're probably closer to the roof than stock ones if anything. do a search on http://www.toymods.org.au forums, heaps of those guys have done seat swaps. as for the centre console GT's had one, and RA28's, is your roof material stretched over steel rods or a hard cardboard type thing? the higher spec cars had the hard cardboard one's with centre consoles but it wouldn't be hard for any auto upholsterer to fit a new roof lining, prices start from around $250 if you've already got the rods and depending on the material and colour. cheers Matt

sounds like you need to adjust your panhard rod. its the one that comes down from one side of the car to the diff on the other side (assuming thats a sedan KE70 with springs and struts rather than leaf suspension in the rear like the wagon's), it locates the diff in the centre but once you lower the car to far it pushes it out to the side instead. what you need is a shorter panhard rod which will locate the diff in the centre again. you'll probably need to shell out for an adjustable one to get it sitting perfect, its not really the sort of thing you'd want to do a rough welding job on. as for why it was sitting right before and not now???? wouldn't have a clue, maybe its sitting just that little bit lower with the shortened bump stops so now its noticeable, maybe you bent your panhard rod while you were working on the car??? just guessing though cheers Matt

how about keeping it simple, mazda mx5. already rwd, turbo kits available, and its been done before so its definitly possible. if not then maybe an mx5 gearbox would be sweet for a GTX engine or something like that. cheers Matt

those estates (i assume you're talking about the MS6*, the ones with the chrome strip and gap along the front of the bonnet) were never released over here you can't even get them in Aussie unless you're real lucky (the version i heard is there's only 1 in the country) so unless you want to try and buy one out of Japan you'd be bloody lucky to find one, plus i'd hunt you down and kill you out of jealousy. i'd go corona wagon if you can find a decent one, or even a MK11 but they're even harder to find. of course you could join the masses of people trying to get hold of a decent condition KE26 or KE36 corolla wagon. i still like these cars but i'd prefer to own something a bit more rare and a bit less loved by all myself. cheers Matt

damn that is mint, i love the 2 door mk3's and that's got to be one of the best i've seen.

brugar engineering on barrys point rd, takapuna are usually pretty good with mags, they should be able to help you out. i've got there card so here's all the info if you want to give them a try: Brugar Engineering Ltd 7 Barry's Point Rd, Takapuna, Auckland ph 4866832 http://www.brugar.co.nz

it wouldn't be hard to modify your brake lines to suit, just run one solid line down the centre of the car then through a rubber brake hose and meet it up with whatever diff you decide to use. any brake shop should be able to make up a specified length then just use a cheap set of pipe benders to shape it. might have to use some sort of brake bias adjuster but i doubt it. cheers Matt

or even try this guy: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 709456.htm

running starions are generally pretty expensive. there's a couple on trademe at the moment though. try looking for RWD sigma and galant turbo's, same motor and gearbox, same turbo, fairly similar loom, plus 'apparently' the front brakes are a bolt in swap and if you can find a disc brake sigma rear diff should swap right over as well (galant's are IRS) cheers Matt

there was a purple KE25 in there recently with a twin carbed 5K that had mesh directly over the ends of the inlets, no room for filters at all. cheers Matt