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engine bays looking good with the ramflo filters and the polished (guessing its polished, looks shiny) cam cover. all you need is a set of extractors and it would look mint. cheers Matt

interior sounds fully pimp, how about a couple of pics of that??? cheers Matt

i sort of agree on the blandness of the centre's, the way i see it though is that in most of those jap hot olds meet pics you can't even see the centre's, everybody's just in love with the dish. full credit for getting off your ass and having something made instead of just putting out the usual "WTB any wheels with deep dish" ad. i can't wait to see them on the car. and i reckon they'd look good in chrome (i can't believe i just said that) with the centre edges blacked out, along with cap screws and all that stuff. cheers Matt

very cool, looks good in black, although i'd prefer gloss black myself. anything been done to it besides the paint??? how is it lowered??? i'd love an MS55, been after a coupe for a while but ever since i saw this pic 4 doors have been growing on me. could be an idea for when you paint it too, 2 tone looks fucking cool on these: cheers Matt

looks like a nice little car, hard to go wrong with a ke25 though. i'm fully loving the stuff in the background too, is that a Nash metropolitan and a T coupe???? cheers Matt

well if the engine's available and you've already got it set up for a 2T i'd say a 3TGTE would be a damn good option, especially with a rebuild. you'd be crazy to go carby turbo though, carbs need to be modified to work under pressure (most carbs suck, this will have air forced in, Zep would know a lot more about this than i do) and you don't hear too many stories about people getting them running just right. when you've already got a factory setup that works perfectly it would take a lot of motivation to kick it to the curb and go to all that work. if you want it enough though it could be done. Yems on Toyspeed would be someone good to talk to about the 3TGTE conversion, he's done one into his ke30, and slonlo (same forum) has also swapped one into his TA23 cheers Matt

there's quite a few RWD 3SGTE conversions floating around now, they're not the cheapest or the easiest conversion though from everything i've heard. 3TGTEU would be easiest, apparently there's an issue with an oil return line from the turbo and one of the engine mounts but this wouldn't be too hard to get around. they're getting to be a fairly old motor though and semi hard to find. cheers Matt

my celica came with a set of uninstalled nolathane bushes, i'd say they had been sitting around for a year or so before hand but when i put them on one of them crumbled straight away. i didn't have receipts or anything so i just lucked out on those but when i replaced them i went with the blue ones that supercheap sell. i haven't had the car on the road yet but after asking on the internet the Aussie's seem to think they're pretty good. hell of a lot cheaper than nolathane too. cheers Matt

ESI fabrications does stuff like this, Simon works from home so low overheads and he does some quality welding. thats where i'll be going if i ever get around to putting a front mount on the lancer. simon: 021381574 cheers Matt

if i was after that many parts and was going to spend around 1-200 i'd buy a rusty sigma or lancer or something like that, would have everything you'd need plus you could sell off bits you don't. problem with this way is you need somewhere to keep it while you strip it. cheers Matt

http://www.becarparts.co.nz/cgi-bin/be/ ... t_no=27969 they're brand new thai or malaysian (can't remember which) copies, one side fits perfectly, the other is slightly off but not noticeable unless you're looking really hard. i had to cut a small piece of plastic out on the inside to get my light bulb mount in there, just used a good pair of scissors. cheers Matt

got the light's from Brit Euro car parts in south auckland, they had them listed for $50 each but gave them to me for $25 with a navy discount. was meant to be + GST but i talked to a different guy when i got there and he missed it. forgot to mention it for some reason. if you want a set i'll see if they'll give me the same deal and send them down your way for cost + postage. the silver bits in the lines is just paint, you could get it off with autosol pretty easy, i'm just deciding if i like it before i get into that. cheers Matt

without the pipework they're fairly pointless though, not that great an intercooler, only good for the stupid mitsi across the top of the engine turbo pipework even with the pipework. i'm keeping an eye out for one with all the pipework, would be easier than rotating the turbo and ECI for a decent front mount, but only because its a super cheap option if you can find all the right parts. cheers Matt

agreed. well, maybe not terrible, but the wheels dont suit the period at all. and its waaay too high. and didnt it have a 'dash' engine in it? im not sure if the normal starion manifolds just bolt straight up aye... exhaust manifolds are interchangable, only inlet manifolds can't be changed (internet rumour, i've never confirmed it). all of the sohc turbo inlets point across the engine anyway, can't do much about it until you change to multipoint or rotate the ECI with an adaptor plate. i've been hearing some bad things lately about this leaning out the two cylinders furtherest from the inlet though, i'm still thinking about giving it a try, its not like sohc 4g63's are expensive. and i don't think that starion intercooler has got the pipework which makes it pretty much pointless unless its going very cheap. cheers Matt

very cool, good to see someone doing something different instead of just 'drop a rotor in it bro'. wheels look awesome, does it rub??? if not how far in did you have to have them to not rub (agains't guard lip, not inner guard)??? cheers Matt

that GTO that was in NZPC a couple of months back had a fwd sigma motor with fwd manifolds in it, stupid piping for the turbo though, i'd definitly make the effort to find a rwd exhaust manifold. all the starion stuff will bolt straight up so pretty easy to find too. not too sure whether your lancer gearbox would bolt up, i don't think it would last too long though. sigma box would be a better (and cheap) option, still cable clutch so easy to set up. cheers Matt

these are one of those cars i never had any love for, then saw one fixed up and they can look quite nice. some guy i used to know in Whakatane bought one, painted it green and put some whitewalls and stock hubcaps on, turned out to be a mint little cruiser. wonder if its still floating around SR20DET would be the shit too. cheers Matt

i got the spacers from a mate that works for a wheel shop, they were damn cheap but i don't think he can repeat the price ($160 for the set). i'll ask him what normal price is, still would probably be better than most places. he had difficulty even getting these ones though so no guarantees. can't use the spacers with these wheels either, they already rub at the front under hard cornering and if i put them on the back the wheels would be firmly attached to the guards. looking for a decent set of wheels at the moment. cheers Matt

cheers for the comment, threw a pic of the front up in the projects section. can't tell much though, can't see the oil cooler and the intercooler isn't there yet. cheers Matt

pic of the front of the car, shows the new grill i've got on there although its not the clearest photo. nothing too flash, something different though, haven't seen any of these on any other NZ lancer's, mainly on pics of malaysian ones. besides that i've got some brake fluid in there (brakes heaps better with new pads and hoses although i haven't taken it for a decent drive yet) and i might have a line on a new coil which will hopefully clear up my idle problems (sounds like a really lumpy cam or a ported rotary). going to change it over to 95 octane as well and tune it for that as soon as i can borrow a timing light. need to find some FWD wheels so i can get the spacers certed along with the rest of the car. cheers Matt

there were lancers with the twin carbs too, very rare though, i've only ever heard of them and i've got a pic of an american car with them (i'll put it up later, its on the computer at home). i know of a guy in invercargill who had a pair, apparently they had been sitting out in the weather for a couple of years though and needed a rebuild. haven't heard from him for ages though, i think he sold his lancer. cheers Matt

you can't buy new king springs for EX lancers anymore, not enough demand. only reason i bought compresses springs. there are other things that fit, MK2 escort front springs are meant to be all good for the back, not sure about the front. would still make things difficult finding the right spring rates and heights though. cheers Matt

got my spacers today, they're an inch which is slightly above certifiable (they're 25.4mm, max is 25mm) but hopefully i'll get away with it, if not it won't be hard to skim half a mm off the back. won't even need to take the studs out. now i've just got to find a set of wheels to put on them. cheers Matt

got this in the mail today, cost $22 (trademe), not sure if thats a good price but its cheap enough i'm not too worried either way. looks hell of a lot better than just the bare pipe coming up. somebody asked about the c/l too so i'll put a quick rundown of how to install it with pics: it comes with instructions and its pretty simple. you get a loom with computer, 4 solenoids, one of which is master, plus all the mounting stuff for each solenoid. this pic shows pretty much all the stuff you get for each door, master has 3 extra wires and the rod for the end of the solenoid isn't shown: loom has a power and an earth wire (red and black), you connect the power to any constant 12V (i used my stereo permanent power wire, yellow for sony) and earth the black one wherever you want. master solenoid goes in drivers door, other 3 go in the other 3 doors. you use the bracket that comes with it to bolt across a gap in the door, keeping in mind that the solenoid has to work in line with one of the rods that actuates your lock. also remember that the window being wound up and down may interfere so make sure and keep it clear of this. solenoid gets bolted to the bracket and the rod goes through the end of the solenoid and then you use the little square block to bolt this to the lock actuating rod. little connecting block, tighten screws to fasten it to both rods, works like a choccy block sort of: hook up all 4 doors, connect and hide loom, test and try (mine didn't work for the first few times, solenoids seemed sticky, just click it up and down for a while until it works) hope that shows enough, i can take more photo's (today before door skins go back on) if something isn't clear. cheers Matt

got bored this evening, shot down to supercheap just before closing and bought a central locking kit for $40. got 2 doors done, will finish the rest tomorrow. gave it a test run, works sweet as now i need some electric windows but i think that'll be put in the too hard basket. will chuck some photo's up tomorrow of the c/l. pretty easy to install, just the wiring is a bitch cause the car's old enough that there was never any wiring that actually went to the door. cheers Matt