RT

not mitsi but I had a bitch of a problem bleeding the brakes on my capri when I upgraded to vented discs.. no matter how many time I bled them still spongy. Then I noticed a couple of extra nipples that I'd forgotton about. Thought that must have been it.. but no.. turns out my master cyl was shafted. Even though it seemed fine before I started. Got it machined and rebuilt and bingo.

Could be interested 1500gt what sort of price are you looking for? Bullitt, why would lots of short running cause mayo? I've only ever found mayo on blown headgaskets eh (or cracked water jackets)

Cheers, Yeah this one has a lot of water build up and mayo under the rocker cover which would indicate blown head gasket, however it drives mint, all the plugs look fine, and there's no oil in the water.. so maybe moisture build up over so many years. I don't think the oil's been changed for quite a while. Gonna flush it then see what happens, if the heads cracked then I'll put a alloyhead hunter motor in, 1500gt are yours hunter motors? Are there really many advantages with the hunter motor over the minx engines?

Cool so would just put the original flywheel on the hunter engine and use the minx starter, minx front plate and mounts? Just need to find a hunter engine then..

Does the alloy head hunter engine bolt up to the superminx 4-speed? What do you mean the 289 was on the Hillman parts list? its a ford motor? Yeah if the hunter engine bolts straight in then that sounds like the go.

^ I'm guessing you missed the bit where I said I wanted to keep it original

^ Can't believe you of all people suggested it. You hate pintos lowlancerlot. nah, too heavy in the front, wrong era of engine etc. Want to keep it original at least a hunter engine would look almost identical.

It's a clean sheet design the 2.8 Cologne... built in Cologne Germany where as the Essex is built in.. Essex England. Siamese ports and bosh k-jetronic injection 160bhp. Most people describe the 2.8V6 as lacking the low down torque of the Essex engine.

^ Cheers for the info. No definately don't want to spend thous. As it is my GF's ride and we're fine with it being slow. However, being a '67 I'm expecting we will need to put a fresh motor in it sooner or later. Either rebuilding the existing one or retro-fitting something else. Sounds like late model hunter would be the go. Don't wanna make a grenade.. just want to tune it enough so it's got a little more go to keep up with modern traffic. Do the hunter engines have stronger rods?

What do I have to do to a Hunter alloy head to put on teh superminx?

^ Nice. So you can't / shouldn't try and bolt on a later model Hunter alloy head? I haven't fully inspected car yet. I know the cooling system is full of rust though. I hope the thermstat housing isn't too bad... What about converting the dynamo to an alternator? Any tips there?

so.. electric fans? bigger radiator or something? Get alloy head crack tested and skimmed before porting. Must save a lot of weight having a alloy head if the engines anything like a pinto.

It's not the first time I've been told to stear clear of the alloy heads.. but nobody can give me a reason why not ?

What's wrong with the alloy heads? Why would you want the iron ones? Yeah don't really want the hassle of twin carbs since it's my GF's car. Would prefer a manifold for a twin choke weber. Keen on an electronic dizzy though and Hunter air filter housing if that is better.

hmmm.. don't think we can be bothered keeping twins in tune. Maybe a single sidey, or a weber of some sort. If the Avenger engine is similar enough maybe fit one of them in. 1725 is the same as the Hilly Hunter motor eh?

hmmm can anyone confirm or deny they are the same engines?

It's a single Zenith carby. Car is completely stock with spider webs in the air filter. Straight as an arrow though. um, the stud pattern is 4x108 like teh fords i think

Hey Boes, My GF just bought a mint Hilly Superminx. Will get photos once it arrives. Who can tell me about the Hillman 1725? I think they're about 80hp or something. Don't want to bother trying to make this car fast, it's just a cruiser... (or crawler) But I do want to get a couple of spare hp out of it to help keep up with traffic lol. Anyone played with these?

I used one off a Sierra. Worked sweet. The blue backed ones are best.

bit of info here: http://www.retrotech.co.nz/Tech/Toyota-boxes.php

mine bottoms out over anything bigger than a matchbox..

dunno about part numbers but here is some info on the shifters anyway: http://www.retrotech.co.nz/Tech/Toyota-boxes.php

Just fill the casing with metal filings.. it will eventually lock itself..

here is another: http://www.retrotech.co.nz/Tech/Toyota-boxes.php

I always use an old valve (very strong) and poke it through a engine-bellhousing bolt hole, then use a screw driver into the teeth of the flywheel using the valve stem to hold it against. Works every time. (+power bar and socket of course)