peteretep

Nah it can be outside the tank although the lower the better, it doesn't matter so much with a facet pump as they are diaphragm so positive displacement which means good priming even from dry. Ie you could mount it in the boot somewhere if you wanted

I think he's just wants its easily removable and doesn't want to reprime the system as he is lazy? That's why I was showing him other brands where you can have seal on release capability. Having a bigger radiator will lower system losses depending on design. If you then used smaller hoses it would increase losses and bring it back to normal/ make it way worse

Tom he wants couplings which mean you don't lose any fluid/ have to reprime the system If you had a larger than original radiator then you could theoretically drop the hose size a bit, not sure how much though

sorry, i have seen quite alot of seal on release couplings, but none that I thought were a reasonable size or price, ie upwards of $500 a fitting or 60mm OD for 19mm OD tube. You could be ok with small radiator hoses though see snap tite fittings or eaton or this one http://www.cejn.com/upload/download/pdf_catalogues/Non-Drip_english_lr.pdf so they are out there, you just need to figure out the smallest you can go then find a reasonable price, from memory you cant get anything like that from the place simon suggested most of the motorsport cars I have seen use these o-ringed clip things you could take off with one hand, I cant remember the name of them though, and they use solid sections of pipe instead of flexible hose

I would just put a low pressure fuel pump and a fuel reg in there for now, if you change to efi later, you can still use the low pressure pump to feed the surge tank. The best thing to make it easier to change over to efi and a high pressure pump would be to run the wires you need and fit the relays required, then when you change to efi just connect up the wires and mount the extra stuff

have you found the clean break/seal on release couplings for the job? I looked ages ago but I couldnt find anything

that thread sucks because the guy never came back with what/if anything happened

Mikeys option is probably good for this situation but for future in my opinion just get that draftsight program which is free, you can open up the dxf/dwg and check it, make sure all layers are turned on, visibile and not frozen. I think type "layers" into the cmd line. If you still have trouble then you can send it to someone here and we can check it

Your best bet is use the correct program or just search online and find a converter but its pretty flaky. Illustrator would have been better I think as you can save as a dxf straight out of the program but export using arcs and lines rather than splines if possible as splines are pretty yuck

Ok ill talk to them in a couple days and let them know what's going on

ill let my parents know what it is and to expect you, how soon you need this?

I have a rivnut gun you can borrow if you run out of other options, also have rivnuts m4 5 & 6

True, good job, again I would look at uk ford sites such as turbosport or oldskoolford or alternatively make up some mounts to suit where you want the engine

There is lots of info on uk ford websites. The conversion is likely to cost alot of money though as there are a lot of custom parts required

laser cutting can cut to like 0.1mm, corners can be anything down to 0. Only potential issue I can think of if is the minimum width of plate left for a given distance but when you send the file through to the laser cutters just ask them if there are any potential issues and they are generally pretty helpful as they wont want complaints etc

you can buy pre bent brake pipes? or you need the flexi hoses?

depends on the bike, my parents quad is a v twin with double carbs

why is it different to quad bike carbs?

manometer lines is easy too, just put them in the intake runners, doesnt matter where too much as long as they are all in the same place afr gauge is pretty crappy to have in car full time unless you want to be gauged out, but driving around the block a few times with a afr meter hooked up is definitely worth it

You use a carb syncrometer and it takes about 6 mins to balance the carbs

really you need a vacuum tank if you want to get enough vac for the brake booster I just run a big master cylinder and use a hard foot I have 1/8" NPT fittings running into standard vac lines off each runner and the vac advance pulses at idle

we got told off in taupo for not wearing helmets

whenever, i vote whenever dave wants to

i would make sure that you got the right 30%, it would be unusual for a size reduction be related to diameter. It is more likely that it is 30% reduction in area. ie basically pi x r^2 x 0.7, so 64mm OD if using OD rather than ID which is true area and doesnt matter about wall thickness also, 76mm tube is correct, its 3inch OD. Pipe size is the weird one being a nominal bore so 3" is actually 88.9mm OD i really like your work on this though

solidworks has basic fea which I have used, I downloaded a copy of solidworks and the FEA worked a couple of releases ago, ansys is another story altogether. I heard people have spent their whole careers on it and havent learned half of it