datsunboy

about 1-2mm thick....I got it from "Spray Store"... yeah, my 2 x 12" pioneer subs were rattling the boot lid like mad....lol

I used the bostik tiles on the floor and in the boot of my 1600.....made a huge difference in the sound. it all adds up to be a lot of extra wieght tho....my boot lid only just stays open now....cause it's so heavy from the sound deadning. It should be fine for the inside of your firewall.

It should be alright for just driving around nicely.... but if you want to be doing hard launches and burn outs all the time...get A R180

you aint going to fit a 120Y diff into a 1600 without a LOT of work ( and it would all be downgrading from your stock diff! ) 120Y's have solid axle suspension in the rear...1600's have IRS! A subby R160 LSD will pretty much BOLT into your 1600, be a bit stronger, and it's an LSD disadvantages? only one I can think of ( assuming you don't have too much power for the diff ) is that I think you can only get them in a 3.7 ratio...which isn't that great.....but oh well.

1600's are getting hard to find...... most 1600's don't have the number stamped on the firewall, ( but I have seen some ), so just get the little plate from the strut tower from another 510, and get it's plates......then smooth some bog over the number in the firewall

dunno what they stand for....but... all of those are webbers. DCOE is a sidedraft twin choke carb IDA is a downdraft twin choke carb IDA is a downdraft twin choke carb ICH - havn't heard of them bofore? DCOE......hmmm Dual Choke O.. E...? maybe?

I know that all Nissans/Datsuns are easy to swap things over... I mean how great is it that a SR20DET ALMOST BOLTS into a Datsun 1600?!!! anyway....If other manufacture's didn't make it so you could make a auto into a manual quickly and easy, then they should be burned down! It should be very easy, and things from the manual car should pretty much just bolt accross ( some cutting and drilling WILL be needed though ) If you do the swap nice and tidy, and it doesn't say Auto anywhere on the car or rego....then no wof man will ever know the difference let alone a cop. So do it clean, and you won't have to cert it. you prob don't have to anyway....but I'm not sure

SU's SU's have a needle that is attatched to a piston that moves up and down. the needle is tapered, therefore you get a different amount of fuel for the different heights of the piston. the accelerator pedal does NOT move the piston, it opens a buterfly, as per normal, that results in a change in potential air flow. the dome on top has a hole going through to the other side of the piston. so..... the air that has gone past the piston will be at a lower pressure than the air on the other side. the lower pressure air fills the top dome, and therefore the piston will lift up, similar principal to a wing ( lower pressure on the top of something than the bottom will make it want to lift up ) then, the higher the piston goes, the more fuel you get...also the more air that can go past. The good thing about them is that they will automatically enrich the mixture when the engine has changing load conditions, as the piston can move up or down without influence of the acc pedal. therefore you have a carb that can get quite close to giving you the optimal air/fuel ratio in almost any condition. a standard carb has a jet that is a set size. this size has to compensate so that it can operate well in all conditions, so it's not the best. hope some of that made sense to you....lol...I'm not the best at explaining things! Manual gearbox upgrade if you do all the work yourself...it should not cost you much at all. you will need to ( assuming your car manufacturer was kind enough to bring your car out in manual and auto with the same engine ) put in the new g/box possibly new gearbox x-member possibly driveshafts mods a clutch pedal clutch master and slave system and lines a flywheel, clutch e.t.c cut a hole in the tunell for the gearstick and of course hydraulic fluid and thats about it...( I hope...lol ) the cost of all these bits will vary greatly depending on how popular the engine you are trying to convert is. eg a Datsun L16 auto - L16 manual would prob cost about $200 inc all parts ( not new parts tho ) ( because L-series parts ( standard datsun engine in a lot of models ) are everywhere and a lot of people are upgrading to later model engines ) whereas my CA18DET auto - CA18DET manual is going to cost a lot more. the gearbox alone is going to cost me about $400-500! ( I'm still looking for one....HINT HINT ) reason for higher costs is obviously because more people want this engine/g-box....and there were a lot of auto Silvias made. still shouldn't cost $1500 tho maybe if you paid someone else to do it for you. [/b]

dunno bout anyone else....but I have never been to any meets, but have met up with a couple of fellow datto owners

DO NOT dent/hack up the strut! I think spacers are illegal....but not sure...if they are proper spacers that bolt to the hub, then maybe....but 15mm is a fair bit. go ask a warrent man.

DO NOT dent/hack up the strut! I think spacers are illegal....but not sure...if they are proper spacers that bolt to the hub, then maybe....but 15mm is a fair bit. go ask a warrent man.

a lot of the datsun guys run a dizzy from a later model version of the same engine......but in the states they don't have as many of them, so a lot of them run a aftermarket kit from a company called " Petronix " ( look it up in a search engine or something ). I am pretty sure that they sell a kit for most old cars to convert to electronic IGN. the kit fits inside your existing distributor, and replaces the points with a wheel with slits cut in it, and a light sensor thingie to trip the transistor unit.

Webers/Delorto's/Mikuni's/Solex's all fit on the same manifold...and are all very similar carbs. Sorry...I'm a datto freak....lol....I don't even know how many cc's a 4k is. But datto guys use 40 or 44mm Mikuni's ( or any of the others...Mikuni and Solex are the same brand ) on modified L20B's ( 2.0litres ) you can still buy rebuilt kits for webers and delorto's.....not sure bought the others tho

I quite often see manifolds with or without carbs to fit 4K's on the net ( trademe.co.nz ) webers and delortos are pretty much the same.....just as good as each other.....depends on mods e.t.c to the engine on what size carbs you'd want

what sorta car is that? by the looks of things...you could fit a fairly large engine in there mmmm....quad cam V8

I'd say it'd be a short somewhere....or the ECU is buggered. my mate has a whole L20ET here ( in bits tho ) pretty sure he'd be happy to sell the ECU and loom if you needed them In christchurch....but I just got a whole engine sent here from Tauranga for $82.....so an ECU won't cost bugger all

my mate bought a DX that had a 2TGUE in it last year. somone had worked the engine....a lot! it had some cams in it, that made it so it had fuck all power below 5000rpm....but as soon as you hit 5k....it went HARD! we used to change at 8000rpm! definately the quickest 1600 I've ever driven. sounded awesome too