Bistro

just had a look in me lil haynes manual, seirra 82-88, abd here follows: N1 1st: 3.65:1 2nd: 1.97:1 3rd: 1.37:1 4th: 1.00:1 5th: 0.82:1 reverse: 3.66:1

Off the top of my head so dont steal my car if it's wrong, but 5th is 0.89:1 and the other 4 are the same as escort type 2 boxes.

yea, you can buy them. im sure, just ring up the lolo people and theyll hook you up.....but mk5 cortina??? or you could be a man and make your own. im gonna do that one day.

old mazdas = 4x110

youd be pretty slutted if it heated up so much the lock nut got welded onto the stud. i suppose if you were carefull enuf and only did little zips at a time it wouldnt matter....be funny tho

yea, im going with clutch slip. my mate had it in his oldskool 320, would be ok most the time but he booted it down this straight one day and it governed and went now where lol. yea, he could change gear without using the clutch too, but it used to crunch like a bitch. the clutch and the gearbox were both buggered in that car, but you can have a fine gearbox and slipping clutch.

when you're in a mini, it seems quiker than it is. quick to 50, i dunno how fast to 100 in mine cos my speedo needle fell off but oh well. nippy cars, small, surprisingly roomy inside, cheap to fill up.

Minicranks in Wellington had some for sale with good tread 165/60s on them. $200. Cheap if you ask me. My mates mini thats getting slowly put together is getting widened steels, or hotties. and flares. However if you lower it anymore than an inch you will need to chop up the gards abit. i get rub when hard conering atm, and mine is mysteriously lowered at the front. Mini prices are on the rise, as are all other old schoolers.

Cheers guys but its all fixed now, well ... sorta. the airleak was from the inletmanifold stud being rethreaded by incorrect nut and wouldnt tightn up, therefore leak. got that fixed, but the choke cable was fraied in the middle and broke... so it doesnt like the cold starts lol... not that wellington is cold or anything. it still bogs down under 3000rpm, but i think its to do with some wangass aftermarket ignition box for cng or something. everyone whos seen it doesnt know what the hell it does. ill get a pic and see what everyone think it could be. also, if your in wellington and see a brown 1275gt with a white drivers door cruising round, just holla out. oh, and escorts sitll for sale

The largest you can go is a 2" section. and they need to be checked and certed for the car. crazy i know.

Usually diff oil isnt changed, it just gets topped up...

cheers guys, ill grab one of a mate an cheack that.

Short and brief: replaces mini manifold with extractors and ground off inlet manifold (mini owners will relate). anyways there is an unberable squealing noise comeing from what my mate and i think is the carb area. solutions? it also happened to his bemma when he put his webers on... also it doesnt pull from below 3000rpm, and doesnt idle, just cuts out. havnt really looked to far into it yet but will in the weekend and any of you fullas have any info, esp on that bloody noise will be big ups to you. chur chur.

sierras came out with 1600 pintos. the only escort with 1600 pintos were the mk2 Mexicos. Ive always had a soft spot for them.....Mexicos not the sierras

yea, sevs are "103hp (77kw) (Series 1), 114hp (85 kw) (Series 2 & 3)" however rx2s " 130hp (97kw)" and 3s "100hp (74.5kw) (10A), 130hp (97kw) (12A)" Yea, not that hard to get big power, 12a bridge is around 250hp.

Just wonderin, is this that gun metal grey one on reflex's?

I thought 12a's had 130-140hp, and 10a's had around 100??

How much money you got? ultimately thats what it comes down to. a pinto will be your cheapest. cheap parts, heaps of info about mods, not much cutting up. 4age, find rwd sump etc, you going to use a t50 box, good luck finding one. plus all the wiring, ecu for injection and stuff. unless you carb it? 12a, prices of rotarys and going sky high atm. ok power standard, great when ported but fuel could be an issue. gonna have to mount it on an angle to clear the steering rack. some cutting up for the box i think. sr/fj, ecu etc. wouldnt be a bad conversion tho. you just gotta weigh up the pros and cons of each conversion, will it be a daily, also dont forget upgraded brakes, suspension, feul system etc. good luck anyway

do you all ready have 2"blocks? what i would do is just get my leaves reset 2" and stick in a 1" block, and if there is any trouble with wof etc just whip out the 1" and put it back in.

yea, thats why i said "doesnt relise or doesn't care". but with the power of cars now-a-days, changing from a standy 1300 to a standy 1600 probably wont be noticed by your wof guy if he drives it either.

Only if you WOF guy doesnt relise its a 1600 or doesnt care. i think its 20% displacement increase and you needa cert. My old WOF guy is also a Cert guy. Or decomp head gasket perhaps.

Yea, this stuff aint half bad i tells ya! Nice tutorial too.

even if you did use the 1100 rods you're still gonna going to have to stroke the crank. ie, say the 1100 conrods are shorter, and you put them in, the cc rating will be the same. but if you stroked the crank then you would need new conrods anyway?? (im thinking of machinie the journals in the crank to give it strokage, then a conrod with a smaller big-end??. that or a whole new crang with a bigger stroke?? is someone able to confirm my theory before i confuse myself lol )

take the fuel line off the carb and turn it over. if fuel squirts out then the lines are ok and it could be the carb that is blocked. if you checked that the ignition is all hunky dory then just cleans the carb and itll be right as rain.

i think you're gonna find that htis is more than a simple job. the roof guttering is where the side panels and the roof and welded together. your gonna have to take the roof off, bend everything inwards and reweld it all. if thats what you're thinking of...