kyteler

ArmorAll does not and will not restore exterior vinyl or bumper plastic for an extended period of time, sure it's fine (and when I say fine I mean.. mediocre) for shit INSIDE the car because that's not subjected to the weather.. but it very quickly wears off louvres, bumpers, tyres & vinyl roof tops. I found out about Arco through an aussie guy who found out about it through an auto upholstery guy who restores and refinishes classic cars so he knows what he's talking about. Besides Si said he's tried a few products one would assume Armorall would be the first one to try, my guess is that he was looking for something a little less known that may work well.. hence why I did some digging and found Arco.

Im not in auckland but shizzl is and his is a Pinto 2L by the looks. If i remember correctly you need; Engine Mounts Oil Pan Oil Pickup Sierra 5speed (not necessarily you coud grab the 4spd from the Cortina you took the Pinto from) uhmm... some other things. http://www.spannerfodder.com/ has all the info on their somewhere and if not the guys are really helpful as well.

Hey dude, the articles out of a 1978 Australian wheels magazine.

Apparently there's some stuff called "Arco" I tried to do a bit of research on it and it seems to come in a few types (Vinyl/Leather Cleaner and All purpose Cleaner) You'd probably want the All purpose. My guess is it's a Commercial/Industrial Cleaner as Apparently you can only get it at Auto Upholsterers etc. So it might be worth trying to find some of that. And I'd have to agree.. bin the vinyl roof

hey dude, Capri 2.8i vented discs are a popular conversion but if you want to go really hard out on it, BMW E30 discs with Volvo Calipers are also another option people take, all the best info for escorts is on http://www.spannerfodder.com I've got some pics from when I was researching things when I still had my 2door.. but that's gone now.. if you give me your email I'll send you the pics if you like. Including pics of a magazine article on a turbo'd 'scort that you may find interesting.

Give Sportline and email. http://www.sport-line.it/uk/main_uk.html Their contact address will be on there somewhere. Failing that Autotechnica might make one. Repco also babbled shit to me about boss kits when I wanted one for my VK, I found one eventually, it was a Sportline one, which is the same PCD as MOMO. Failing that, keep an eye on trademe I guess.

If it's an L20ET it's not _THAT_ much of an Oldschool Skyline C210 or R30 JDM came with an L20ET Factory and because of this it was a popular conversion for the C110, anyway.. that doesnt help you. If the injectors are squirting with the battery connected I would say it's either the computer or the fuel pump is playing silly buggers. But I dont know for sure, finding another efi cpu. for an L20ET may prove hard.. I've got one here for an L20E, it might be enough to test whether it's the comp that's the problem.. but I'm in Invers, so that doesnt really help you. Go to a wreckers and steal a comp from an old turbo'd Laurel or of course, another Skyline but they'll be more rare than a Laurel, there's an old turbo'd Laurel in a wreckers near me that I was going to grab all the turbo gear from.. but again.. no use to you as I'm in Invercargill. I'd check earth wires and power connections to the fuel pump and cpu. My brother's old ZX kept making the battery fun flat because something wasnt shutting off and the fuel pump kept running took it to the auto-electrician he fixed it up. Can't remember how much it cost.. but if the car is in decent shape and the price is low enough to add the price of an auto electricians bill onto it.. I'd get it, just haggle them down because you have to get it fixed ring an auto-electrician tell him what's happening and ask for a rough basic nasty quote on fixing it then tell the person who's selling the car how much it is.

I ripped this off another forum for you , just call me information theif. I also removed a few unneccesary bits. 1. Take wheel off. 2. Clean with degreaser, back and front. 3. Wash wheel with hot soapy water using a non-scratching stiff bristle brush. 4. Thoroughly dry. 5. Start sanding with 80 grit to get the curb rash off of wheel (if there). 6. Sand with 100, 180, 220, 400, 600, 1000, and finally 1500. (do as much wet sanding as possible) 7. Then I was thinking of getting a good polishing kit. Use the wheels of the polishing kit with the right abrasives with my electric drill. 8. Now I will use a dremel with a polishing cone to get where the drill with the wheel could not. 9. Wash thoroughly again with hot soapy water and scrub with plastic non-scrating brush. 10. Dry with cotten cloth. 11. Mount and look in awe of my now seen reflection in the wheel 12. repeat three more times. errrr. If you swap step 7 & 8 for using Autosol as directed on tube you should be all good and not really need to worry about step 9 or 10 as they're catered for in the Autosol instructions. Another person added this; "I use basically the same procedures outlined except instead of the finer sandpapers I use 00 and 0000 steel wool. I use a buffing pad on my bench grinder for the main polishing and the drill and dremel for the harder to reach areas" An extra note to add. The guy that added the steel wool comment has uber-fucken-mirror-like polished rims, so he knows his stuff. The first steps written were also a question by the guy who posted it.. most people agreed that it was the usual method. Good luck Obi-wan, be sure to take some before and after shots

Why do you want lower profile? if you fuck with it too much your speedo will be out of whack, chances are it already is a little wrong.

I would recommend Autosol for polishing as well.. it's about $8 a tube. What size rims and tyres did you get?

Rules of an old car; 1. Check the Fuses. Failing that, 2. Check your ground/earth wires, disconnect clean and reconnect. 90% of time something electrical not working on an old car is just the connection somewhere, corrosion etc. if you have cleaned your engine bay connections since you've had the car I'd recommend doing it.

I'd check your wiring and shit first, if you've got a test lamp or gauge jam it in the spade connectors and make sure you're actually getting power to the horn because it would suck to get another one only to find out it wasn't the horn in the first place. But yeah, goto a wreckers, they'll probably give you one off something else but it doesn't really matter, it's a horn, nice wrecker might even give you it for nothing. No idea on cost though sorry dude.

OK, it's rougly about 850mm long from outer fan edge to transmission end of block. That's adding a couple more cms to make sure And about 600mm tall from bottom of sump to the highest peak of rocker cover and about 700mm including the intake manifold tubing etc.

Yeah the external block measurement should be the same, measure it up. My brother's 32 is an RB20 as well.

Oh dude, my brother just left in his 32 Where do you want the measurements taken from? I'll get them the next time he's round which will probably be tonight or tomorrow. That is if noone else gets them first.

dude, there is no "old fuel" anymore... 91 unleaded used to be the "new fuel" then they phased out all the leaded fuel, and 96 was the gay ass replacement for the leaded fuel, even though the modern unleaded fuel creates more toxins and pollutants and is worse for the planet than the old stuff damn government morons.

You should be running on 96 already and using valvemaster or equivalent. I wouldn't bother changing oil, if you get your rings done there's no need to change to a thicker oil, you should be running like 20W50 or around that area.

Get a gromet or plug from hammer hardware or some shit. Punch a Pin-hole sized hole in the centre of the plug and feed the wire through, you want it to be hard to push through so that it creates a nice seal for extra assurance I'd put a bit of silicone on and around the hole as well.

If your boots leaking it may just be the boot rubber seal, seeing as it IS leaking, take off the rubber seal around the boot and see if there's rust on the metal fold that the seal sits on, if there is... stink ass, get it fixed now. Also, if the join for your boot seal is at the top of the boot instead of near the latch, then whip it off and put it back on with the join (where the two end bits meet it probably isnt physically joined) at the latch.

Dude, my escort never leaked... are you sure your heater hoses and shit are on properly? otherwise there may be a junked up drainage hole and thusly the overflow is getting in.

Judging by the ass end of that carb that you can see poking out from under the filter, it looks to be a Holley. For the person that was wondering. Fuck'd if I could tell you what series though.