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Haha, yeah. I forgot to add the water gauge. I've actually got a decent working autogauge one at home that isn't older style that I might put in for now. Gonna measure up the radiator before I hit Pick-a-Part this weekend and see if anything modern and awesome will fit. 13x8, would be awesome... the rear doesn't even have 8" of wheel well I don't think!

I would imagine that the engine mounts are the same as the Chevette, but I would be not so sure about the gearbox fitting in the tunnel, and also the location of the gear stick. Plus, that would require a cert (cough) and I doubt anyone would notice the difference with the 1256. It's so terrible that I want to do it.

Unfortunately the only people that seem to know anything are "purists" who tell me that slamming it will reduce the value. Pffft, this ain't an investment - its a hobby and soon to be gangster ride. Brad, it's either got 1256 or stay 1057, and I'm sure the latter is even shitter than the prior. I'm not going to do anything that will involve engine mounts, sumps, x-members - mainly because I want to keep this on the cheap. Magnum, my guess is that it's BG discs and calipers as they are 4x100 and Tony was speaking of using Chevette wheels.

As those of you who were at nats 2012 would have seen (or been part of), I have a new Viva. First of all, thanks to all of you involved with getting it from Wellington to Taupo. It got back to Auckland fine! This thing is a 1057cc beast, leaf sprung rear and front (transverse) with 12" wheels and drum brakes all round. Pics from TM: Plans: slam on widened steels with hubcaps, 1256 Chevette engine (cue ROFLs). I have already talked to Tony Lynch who says he can use 323 discs and calipers with Chevette hubs to put disc brakes on the front. This will change the stud pattern from 4x4" to 4x100 - he'll also change the rear pattern to suit. I'll run Chevette steelies - once they are on there I'll figure out how much I can widen them. Ideally I'd like to go 13x7 with 155/65s, but 13x6 might be more feasible. Rear leaves will be packed up (to stiffen) and reset to a give 2" (or more depending on how the wheels look) drop. The front, I guess I can do the same. However there is an option to use coil overs if I box section the lower arms and strengthen the mounting at the top and bottom. If I do this I'll probably leave in just one leaf to act as some sort of torsion between the arms. Engine - the 1256 has to be better than the 1057. Going to try find some headers and a cam, and chuck on a better carb. Looks like people use 40DCOEs but will have to find a manifold. Might be able to use a 40DGAV and make something up, or dual SUs, or dual bike carbs. Shave the head and clean up the ports, and that should do. Discuss! viewtopic.php?f=18&t=33251

viewtopic.php?f=17&t=33252 Discuss!

Yeah, this kind of thread is not really good. Promoting garages as "easy" WOF places is not good for their public image. If you've named a place, go back and remove it thanks.

I've got an oil cooler as well (under the front guard). This conversation is about mounting it like this:

Simon is right. If the external cooler is for looks (and don't be worried about admitting that as there are even guys here who like tyre stretch and excessive negative camber) then you are WAY better to not have it plumbed into your oil circuit. If the plumbed-in cooler catches a stone and is holed the best you can hope for is a tow home.... the worst is a seized engine and then a tow home. Worst is that you dump all the oil under your tires and careen to your death!

Massive CONGRATS guys! Great job on an amazing line up and another award? You shouldn't have!! Supers effort - OS is really stepping up the game this year To Sparkle and the rest of you - cheers for all of the effort you put into making this happen, great great great job!

Cam and I have finally got on to painting the inside of the boot of my car. We've laid down one coat of 1K CF etch primer, but can't continue tonight because it's too damn dark and the light in my garage is pitiful. We're ready to lay down the first coat of paint - it's 2pack Autothane - but are worried about the length of time between primer and paint. The instruction sheet said 25 mins, but it looks like it might be more like 25 hours as we've both gotta work tomorrow. Are we going to be safe painting straight on top of the etch after work tomorrow? Should we sand it first? Or lay down another coat just to be safe? (I'm hoping the first will be fine). Need to know asap as we've gotta get this paint on tomorrow and if I have to get up and do it at 6am I may just do it. Cheers!

Good to know brad. I'm going to need to replace the three on my ladder bar pretty soon I think.

yes should be attached with 4 rivets to a part of the body/chassis that cant be removed. /blind

I don't know anything about 4AGE alternators but the last time this happened to me was due to a faulty regulator (mine's external). It was still working fine but wasn't being told to turn off the light.

Does the cert plate have to be riveted on? Most I see are.

There wont be much difference between tenting and cabin accommodation costs (gotta cover the costs here) so best bet is to grab a cabin instead of sleeping in your car.

Mean! Thanks!

here, in the wof book note 6 page 11-1-2 http://www.nzta.govt.nz/resources/virm- ... t-v4a3.pdf it says it has to exit behind the passenger compartment which is slightly different to the lvv standard - 2.1(5) http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards ... ssions.pdf so if you ran it out the side infront of the rear wheel you should be right One of them mentioned not being allowed to run it out the left side of your car... is this correct?

Hey Cletus, where would I find the document you mentioned concerning dumping the wastegate out the side of the car? Cheers

Hrm... might try this on the weekend. Although my local BOC doesn't sell slabs of dry ice I don't think - we've only ever bought it in pellets.

Yup, I think that will be the goer. When the car is back and running I'll get it all measured up. I'm hoping the calipers are a possibility in returning my steering lock to normal.

I need to grab them and see how they look next to the VT calipers. One of the main reasons I want to change is that the current setup has made me need to reduce the steering lock as the calipers hit the lower arms.

It's a thinner rotor though, so unless I'm not thinking about this correctly, it would make it worse.

Interesting debate. I had a chat with Tony Lynch about it and his recommendation was not to risk it, but said that I could come up and see him and he could sort something out. Reckons he could source appropriate discs for under $100!

I think I'll measure it up like Sheepers said and see how it looks. Will make a decision based on that.