Doug Hill

Mk1 seems to work. Board is hinged, will flip up horizontal to give access to where I can hide my lollies from mimi-me. The lower horizontal board can be folded up behind the drawing board, but is very important for holding cups of tea. Figured out the fine adjustment knobs (angle indicator has a vernier scale) and the overall alignment. Will need a disasembly and good clean up. I will need to find suitable rulers, will probably just make some moubts and epoxy them to a 500 and 300mm clear ruler now I can hide in the spare room like a loner

Because I'm too cool for CAD and im sick of using the kitchen table. Drawing board project. Pretty much impossible to find any info on these NTI units, but I'll figure the fine adjustment out while I pull it to pieces and the ADHD on to a totally different project

I did with one of my Morris Minors And then I replaced the speedo with a spare so it worked again

You're meant to hammer the whole key in while the pulley is installed, I should have added that to the instructions

Our outdoor high voltage DC components are tin plated, or silver plated. So one of them will do the job Use a di-electric grease

Your key is now in the caple hands of NZpost, so you should see it around May 2nd 2026.

I'll have a look at work tomorrow, pretty confident I'll have a bit of 4mm in stock

You can make a new woodruff key yourself with a little bit of key stock. If you send me the width/length I may have a bit here I can send

Always made me giggle, our old 2005/6 E61 wagon was an IBS (Intelligent Bowel Syndrome) car and needed battery coding, plus sensors etc. My Camry Hybrid and Prius both do not require that. Go figure.

Popped the engine back in at some stupid hour last night. Nice to have the original back in the frame, the spare was from a later ugly era GT. Side note, I am desperate to get the new shed built

The spark plug cover? I'm missing one of those. Seem like hens dicks to find too

Slowly putting the GT125 back together. Built a 20t big bench top press to do the crank, all the cheaper presses I looked at were poxy piles of shit. And of course I didn't take pics once I finished it Ignition timing set. Just finishing off getting the right surface finish on the side covers, it's kinda half ass polished in all the pics and how the bike arrived. So keeping it that way. New old stock emblems coming for the covers. Cases all glass blasted and re-treated, pretty chuffed with how they look. Now on to the carbs, need to remember to order the intake gasket thingymabobs from somewhere, strange wee carbs the VM18s. The resin/phenolic spacer inside the bore is not listed in the Suzuki parts book, but it looks like you can get a newer and much sexier alternative nowadays. So my final hurdle is, some parts of the frame aren't super tidy but it is original paint. I'll have to see how the OCD vs originality battle goes once I put the engine in

We had a mk2 3.2 TT with a little exhaust and I always thought it sounded like a masturbating Wookie. Really lovely motor otherwise

Misalignment will wear splines like that. As will lack of appropriate lube. Check crank thrust too. Then measure the clutch stack height and try find some proper specs for the parts you're using If the stack height is wrong the diaphragm may be touching the disk (almost looks like it has kissed the springs) and this will then eat the clutch and thrust bearings in the engine

Lifan won't bolt in to a 6v CT but will for later 12v bikes, one of the mount holes is in a different spot. Buy a bit of choppychoppyweldyweldy sorts it You can run a 110cc upwards top end but also requires sweet custom mods (either turn the sleeve down or machine the cases to receive the barrel)

They work okay, sometimes they need resizing like any cheap rod. Most rods don't come balanced well enough anyway, I've had some reasonably spendy gear more than 0.1g out and that's only good enough for a low revving potato

1-1.6 depending on what you're replacing. I haven't come across anything 0.8 on any of the ones I've done at work (that I can remember) most stuff I've done on those is 1.2 I think

I'm paying 88+gst for 0.8mm cold rolled, or there abouts

Vauxhall C20 would kind of make sense.

And there we go, I figured it out. Left casing was washed and sprayed with MetalPrep (Phosphoric acid + Zinc Phosphate), poor man's alodine or zincate Right casing is glass bead blasted

So i rushed to farmlands and got some cipper sulfate because i lost my other bag. Did a control test on some zinc fasteners, scotchbrite then dilute copper sulfate, instant black. Gave each part a sneaky scotchbrite. Zero reaction essentially. GregT wins the cookie. Happy i confirmed it with a science though. So I guess I'm looking at conversion coatings for aluminum now. Can't say I've ever seen a paint finish that will replicate it

It wasn't painted, unless it's a tinted clear that replicates passivation. But it did not blast off like paint does on the engine casings They could be aluminum, and that's fine, it just changes the process to replicate the OEM surface finish.

Shows up less on camera, but there's a blue tinge. Just like clear passivate. Problem being, if it's all aluminum it will be difficult to achieve the factory finish

I thought so too, until I went to blast the cases and they appear to be clear/blue passivate, as was the cylinder head. I'll snap a pic inside casings to show. Barrels and most covers appear to be painted or polished aluminum. My later GT motors are all painted though. The other possibility is Zamac or whatever that classic zinc alloy was

Has anyone got any tips identifying zinc vs aluminum castings? Apart from a specific gravity test (hard on complex parts) the only reliable thing I can think of is dilute copper sulfate should turn zinc black and not react with aluminum? My GT125 cases and head were clear/blue passivated, so need to get the process right incase some is aluminum. I suspect the barrels and the stator/points cover are aluminum, they're a lighter colour in person. Pic of glass bead fapped parts