shizzl

sweet bro, come say hi

ppfft study.....

if you stinkers arent up to much and just kicking the biscuit, fill up the ride and head over the hills to greymouth. opening meeting at greenstone park speedway on saturday, and the greymouth street races on sunday.. epic weekend with good weather.. come watch my car hit something

i disagree with that staement, some people just want to know if theres a shit load of work to do it, or if its a walk in the park.. sure you do need to be mechanically minded so you dont cut something thats super important like the flux capacitor cables etc. i would atleast get the brakes recoed.. factory brakes should be adequate enough to pull you up from any legal speed within the given distances.. if not then they should never have been made. i agree that its a good idea to fit some new vented discs atleast and quality pads. put some quality shoes in the rear..done. maybe look at upping the power of the system too...booster/master etc good luck..

its a mitsy, they come standard with reduced power... to me it does sound like a vac leak

thats a throttle position sensor (TPS). doubtful that it would be faulty anyway..

i used pc fans on a rx oil cooler...worked mint.. hair dryer idea is the bomb....never thought of that before..

just check all the vac lines first.. and theres shit loads of mechanics in chch..lots in the yellow pages..

its the cranks that are different.. ones a 6 bolt the others 8 bolt.. cant remember if its the manual 6 and auto 8.or other way round.. but you can buy new flywheels to suit the auto cranks.. HRP - steve hampton in hamilton make them, not cheap but good quality and factory spec. pretty sure its the same across the board for them, which i think is a stupid idea..

check all your earths... also check the coil pack grounding, these quite often come loose and cause problems..

will you be running a single twin throat webber or twins...? and obviously extractors... just dont make your exhaust too big.. if i were in your position i would: get it put together with extractors and weber. get the dizzy upgraded to an electronic put it on a rolling road dyno.. start on the fuel you wish to use and a plug set. they can set it up from there check out the NGK sparkplug site for some good info on choosing plugs by temp range etc..

can you freight it???? guys here have paid $50- $60 for 20l..

because its not tuned for 91...if you had it tuned to run on that, then there you go.. comes down to engine condition aswell..compression, spark etc... you might aswell just blow all ya gas money on avgas

valvoline or mooreys? i dont know of anyone who would rebuild a head using OS valves, they normally replace with the newer spec gear to run unleaded without an additive

if its got new valves in it you can run 91 without damaging the seats.. you probably wont get much gain from running 96 or 98 to be honest.. unless you get it dyno tuned to get the max out of it.. dont expect to rock up to a pump, fill it up and get instant horsepower, it just doesnt happen.. also run the correct plugs for the fuel your gonna run.. most of us speedway guys still run 96 pump gas compared to some that run avgas at $2 something a litre... but i love the smell of it so i may run that one day

nice camel toe that side one of a LZ(landing zone) is sick...

mucking fint bro....

first time out on the track..went about 5-6 laps then it cut out and lost all spark.. im picking the module has had it... lucky i have a spare

rally/circuit racing boys have been doing 4 links and coils for years... aswell as putting little v8s in them... www.google.com should have some uk links there

thats what i was thinking... so should be ok for low boost ae? towed the stockcar this morning on the trailer, got to 90kph downhill... along the straights maybe 80kph...so yes it needs more oooompph

any of you tech onto it guys work out if this can handle a bit of boost? say 6-10psi? Displacement, cc 2605 Engine model G6 Max.power (Net), kw(PS)/rpm 120 ps (88.26 kw) / 4500 rpm Max.torque(Net), N*m(kg*m)/rpm 20.6 kg*m (202.02 N*m) / 3500 rpm Power density 14.67 Engine type Water cooling serial 4 cylinder OHC12 valve Engine information Fuel system EGI (electronic gasoline injection) Turbocharger No Fuel type Unleaded regular gasoline LEV system (Low emission vehicle) No Compression ratio 8.4 Bore, mm 92 Stroke, mm 98 Final gear ratio Fuel consumption at 10-15 modes, l/100km 13.8 Fuel consumption at 60 km/h, l/100km

yeah,greymouth..cheers.. oh the numbers are just taped on till i splash some paint over the gel coat.... bloody stoked its done and running..

Done!!