dmulally

I don't go to anybody else. I park down the street so he can't see me pulling up and hide.

Nothing really. All were good points and tbh I knew that it would get pinged on the smoke and it isn't as if smokey engines fix themselves. Old mate who did it was really helpful and he wasn't being a dick at all. Can't say the same for VTNZ. It's just that Certifier/LVV have a long list. VTNZ had a long list. Now when I think I'm finally done and dusted, I have yet another long list. Each list take around 12 months to complete and cost between 10-20k. I might just sell it as a project and put it down to tuition fees.

Big fat fail sadly. The big cloud upon start up was enough to ping it even though it does go away eventually. Not to mention the 50 other things that LVV and VTNZ passed that he has decided they shouldn't have. Looks like the eternal project remains what it is. Why oh why did I have to move when I already had a great wof guy... I really need a less stressful hobby than old cars.

Nah. It's only a little smoke and isn't using any oil noticeably. After years of it being a project I'm happy for it to just work. When it finally throws a leg out of bed it'll be a good excuse to put in a diesel truck engine like I've always wanted to do. I'm just sick of it being a project. Plus whilst I'm building a cabin it it better than a box trailer.

Ta. It's always a bit nervy going to a new wof place after leaving an area where the wof guy was really helpful. Pity it is a 3 hour journey back or I'd go back there. If anybody knows an old car WOF specialist in the South Wairarapa please shoot me a message.

I have had my chev V8 rebuilt and it smokes a little on startup. Stinks of burnt oil and is blueish. A quick rev and it goes away so my guess is that one of the rings might be shot seeing as I had all new valve stem seals put in. Haven't compression tested it yet however. Does anybody know what is needed for a wof in regards to smoke? I have just moved to a new area so haven't figured out who are the better ones with old cars yet.

I've helped complete an EV in Australia and looked into it seriously in NZ. Whilst there are a few turn key companies in NZ that will help you out, you're on a hiding to nothing trying to get anything remotely cost effective out of them for the DIYer. You can look at importing from AU or USA but then you'll get stung at the border for whatever they feel like charging you that day as well as no easy warranty option. I'm still looking at another EV conversion but doing it for a vintage tractor. I can keep the volts low and use older DC forklift technology. Plus having battery weight in a tractor is good for me. To do a car in NZ either you need to look at getting a written off leaf and get chopping, or for a bespoke option with decent power and range you'll be closer to 100k than 50k.

If you just want a home job go 2k basecoat. Comes off kind of plasticy but you can get away with two coats and can always buff it a few months later.

Does anyone know if this will work with an Altezza box? Edit: Ignore that. It'll be this.

Here is how the linkages work. Three rose joints and 7 gears including reverse. The speedo sender below is just taunting me at this point.

Honestly I think it is just new cables being a poor fit inside the liner. The original one was a lot easier to spin in my hand than any of the new ones. Cheers for the heads up though. Next task is to actually find one. I'll scooch under there a little later and put some pics back up here for ya of the linkages. It is all commer at the front and the difference in throwing distance is about 250mm. No kidding.

Like this? https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/toyota/electrics/listing/3222354539?bof=FLF9xzQ0

Honestly no idea. I'm willing to try anything though and would need a matching speedo.

Ok. Four cables and one mechanical sender from overseas later and I'm admitting defeat on the commer. I can't believe something as pathetic as a speedo cable has kept it off the road for months now. I'm going to change to electronic and be done with it. Looking at this little doozy: https://new.speedhut.com/accessories/sensors/speed-sensors/magnetic-htz-universal-speedometer-sensor/ Does anybody know what this would attach to and what would I put on the other end to trigger it? Drum brake backing plate pointing at wheel? Tailshaft? Don't want to throw anything out of balance etc.

Gday Ned, Do you guys source DIY EV parts?

Blimey. Sounds like he had an axe to grind. How refreshing.

If I hear anything different I'll let you know. Thanks. My long suffering wof guy is used to the crap I bring in and we have a really good relationship by now. I'm moving soon and he is the only person I'll miss in this shitty town.

One old and bold I spoke to with the same engine in another car made a little sump with a tap that bolted onto the bellhousing. It has an Something similar to the below which is pretty funny. I don't believe my engine even has a rear main seal. Just a slinger that is supposed to send oil back into the sump.

I'm about to put my Jag 340s through the first wof it has had in nearly a decade. Like a lot of the 3.4 engines it leaks out the rear. Does anybody know how oil leaks affect wofs? It isn't a steady stream but it does drip. When fixing the car up I did find a sponge shoved up there. I wonder how long that had been there for...

I set mine up as per instructions with a kit from the states and it only plays nicely some of the time. If I pull it out again though it will be to take to the scrappy. But I'm sure when I finally find that sweet spot and it works from then on I'll be happy. Just a bit of a pain as I'd love to be driving it but have no idea what it is going to do. And with the C20 truck diff it won't go over 45mph without revving it's nut off in third. A diff swap is far easier for me...until you want to tow

I just finally got my 66 C20 on the road after years of building it up. I cannot stress enough how painful this 700r4 box has been. Same one behind the V8's in VN-VP era commodores. It was incredibly expensive to rebuild and still isn't set up correctly. Worst thing is if you don't set it up properly it can and will cook it. I have the harmonic balancer off and am waiting for a new one to come in before I'll try to set the shift points one last time. It either won't find overdrive at all or will change 1,2,3 in about 20 meters. Overdrive sometimes works which means it is probably the TV cable. If that doesn't work I will rip it out (I've already had it passed for LVV so that will be fun) and put in a TH400 and change the entire diff for a taller ratio. Which will be fun as it is an 8 stud pcd. Don't do the th700. It is shit.

I travel long distances in my van. I used kilmat, el cheapo and dynamat. The best results I got were from heavy shagpile carpet in the empty deck area and over the doghouse I put some thick beach towels folded up. Being a commer, I can't put fitted carpet as I need to get into the engine bay frequently. Where did you get those wing mirrors? I love them.

Gearbox output. Where there is a shaft that goes to the electronic sender, mine just has a slot for a mechanical speedo. That has warped and is eating cables.

The stock one looks like it has two pins but I have no idea what they output. Thanks for that and I'll check them out. Speedhut may work but as the mechanical shaft is bespoke, that's what I'm trying to ditch. It is essentially a mechanical output shaft brazed onto the original shaft. This is interesting. But not what I need. It would be good for redundancy though as it has GPS input as well as VSS.

Bump. I have a 6 speed manual box from a Lexus is200 in my Commer van. It has a mechanical sender conversion and it has started eating cables. I'll get this shaft straightened out but I'm just wondering a couple of things. 1. Is the vehicle speed sensor the same as any other models out there? Searching for an IS200 brings up a lot of 300 and 400's. 2. Would it be possible to put the stock sender back in and wire it directly to a custom electronic speedo or does it need the ECU in the way? Thanks in advance.