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Lord Gruntfuttock

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Everything posted by Lord Gruntfuttock

  1. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Keep as stock as man. Sympathetic upgrades for driveability and period add-ons ok, but any more will ruin the vibe. Great score...
  2. Lord Gruntfuttock
    OK, found this (bottom of lifter) so pretty sure I’ll slide a new lumpy-stick in… Been reading up on cams, and my understanding is as follows: Lobe separation - under 108 degrees will have a rough idle, aim around 108-112. Duration and lift should operate in tandem (must balance one against the other). Duration - the longer the duration the higher the rpm power range, aim for around 220 (actual) for usable power. Long intake duration decreases cylinder pressure, and anything over 220 the intake vacuum starts to drop. Lift - match to heads, not much advantage over 0.550 regards airflow, aim for around 0.500. Overlap – helps scavenge exhaust gases, aim for less than 55 degrees for street engines. Gotta remember it’s a street car (ie do not over cam) - It will rarely be used at 6000rpm and I do not want to have to buy a high stall converter (the accountant is getting twitchy). So looking at cam specs, the following grinds look good: Comp Cams Xtreme Energy 218/220 Duration @ 0.050 493/500 Lift 110 Lobe separation 1300-5600rpm Lunati Voodoo 10350702 219/227 Duration @ 0.050 499/522 Lift 112 Lobe separation 1400-5800rpm Just started looking though. In other news, the roller rockers have arrived but have been intercepted by customs. Looks like I’m paying some gst now on things I have got in ok previously…
  3. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Bum. Self parking is pretty handy. On mine it's part of the main shaft sprocket (yet to be confirmed)...
  4. Lord Gruntfuttock
    ^^ Yeah was wondering how much was marketing cheese. To me the sound comes as a result of choosing a cam, not t'other way round. Now looking at all sorts of cam profiles to see if I can decipher the black magic...
  5. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Indeed it does. "Thumpr Camshafts are the hottest cams to hit the streets in more than a decade. Thats because they give you the big cam sound your looking for, with out the drawbacks. Applying a camshaft design originally created for sports car endurance racing, they incorporate early exhaust valve opening, long exhaust duration, and a generous amount of intake and exhaust overlap. Best of all, Thumprs will not negatively impact power output or streetability." Will check them out. Cheers...
  6. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Anyone got any cam suggestions? Motor spec in build thread. Don't want anything too outrageous...
  7. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Appears the lifters may have a bit of pitting, so prob time for a new cam (more $$$). Anyone got any suggestions? I'm sure cams have come a long way since this one was slid in... - Holley 600 vac sec carb - Edelbrock RPM air gap intake - Edelbrock Performer RPM heads (1.90 intake) - Hydraulic flat tappets - 0.30 over bore. Standard pistons - Pacemaker Tri-Y headers - C4 trans Bear in mind this is primarily a family cruiser. Don't want a cam that needs high-stall converter or anything, that only starts to breathe above 2000rpm. A cruiser with a bit of a rumpty tump idle that winds out occasionally is the goal...
  8. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Pulled water pump and looks pretty good (only a few yrs old and done bugger all work). Really just rust from sitting, a bit of a spruce up and it'll go back on... The cavity on lower left was full of green water however, don't think that should be there so maybe had a leak I couldn't see. A lick of paint and new gaskets should see it good for another few years... Will look at heater hose tubes too and knock in new ones if they look a bit scody...
  9. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Are you any better off with a 253 than the 202? I know 8s are cool and all, but so are tweaked 6s (triple carbs mMMmmm...) and the old 253 is a bit erm, average. No offence meant, guess I'm just remembering how I turned down a mint 186 4 spd HG coupe cos it was a 6. Would love it now... [Edit] sorry posted before I read you're selling. My point still stands though : )
  10. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Great build thread, cheers for the history. Proper old school. I'm also gonna scour junk shops for an old vise, just cos...
  11. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Hopefully digging all the loose crap out of the block and fresh gaskets will cure the old girl of her hot flushes... I'll check the water pump and have the radiator flushed because of the loose crap in there, but these were replaced/checked a couple of years ago so should be fine. Rad is the 3 core job and in great nick. CHI heads look great, I just didn't know enough about them.
  12. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Had a better look at the old gaskets and I think I found a leak into the cylinder. This would explain the heating issue, losing coolant without any water showing in the oil (or vice versa). Just a trace of rust between the water passage and cylinder, think I expected to see something more obvious... And a look into the water passages at the rear of the cylinders from the top revealed this. Pretty much a natural trap for any crud circulating the heads that I couldn't get at from the frost plug holes... A $2 Supercheap magnet tool got most of it out, and I vacuumed the rest with a bit of tube stuck into a small car vac. Looks much betterer... So hopefully all is good with the block and I can move on with cleaning surfaces and putting bits back on soon...
  13. Lord Gruntfuttock
    And I pulled the heads the other night. Disappointingly there was no solid evidence of a gasket leak that may have been the reason for overheating. A couple of cylinders however did have dark exhaust valves, which may indicate a valve seating problem? Could be weak valve springs from sitting maybe? Anyway, will post pics later, it's valentines day so I should be able to get some quality shed-time...
  14. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Gah, been crook, but did get back into the alternator. Started with the rotor. The non drive-end bearing was stuck. Really stuck. Didn't want to lever against slip rings so had to cut it off with a dremel blade... And turned the slip rings smooth and gave it a clean up and coat of urethane... Then looked at the mangled stator. A winding had snapped off, 2 diode solder joints had come apart and one of the insulating spacers appeared to have melted, perhaps during a previous attempt at soldering on a diode... I unsoldered the windings from the diodes, and reattached the loose ones after testing them. Best way was to use a small lpg torch under the plate to get a nice pool of solder, and place a tinned diode on it. I held the wire with long-nose pliers to act as a heat sink to avoid koozing the internals... Then stripped the insulating coating from the stub of snapped winding... And attached a new lead by crimping on a small sleeve, plus solder. This was a bare bit of copper wire so added some heat shrink tubing, and tied it back in position before another coat of urethane... And machined up another spacer that I araldited in place on the cleaned up diode plates... And fitted the stator back in the non-drive end casing. All diodes test ok, no shorts and the winding resistances look right... And I'm pretty much stuck now until my brushes arrive. Still got to paint the fan and pulley but it's looking ok...
  15. Lord Gruntfuttock
    So I refitted the frost/drain plugs and filled the block with a radiator flush treatment to see if that made any difference. Left it in half an hr then drained it thru the sieve again, then popped plugs and hit it with the water blaster... Blasted every passage in as many directions as possible, and got quite a bit of gunk out. The white bits were stuff that accumulated in the old alloy intake manifold after it sat for years... Looked much better after that... I know they're not perfect and it should be properly cleaned, but I'm trying to just do the top end, and I have see far worse than these, so we'll see how it goes. Dried out passages with air and the crappy prelim stuff is done - should be ready to pull the heads off next... Just needed to order the wife and No 1 daughter to push the old girl away for the night... I did help by mowing the bit of shaggy lawn they had to push it over...
  16. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Flushed the engine block cooling passages today. Began by simply hosing through the heater manifold connection and catching any loose crap out each side's drain plug so I had an idea of what I was dealing with... (This pic reminds me of a bloke at work with kidney stones who had to piss thru a sieve for a month to catch the gravel)... Didn't look too bad, a few large bits of loose scale came out... Thought I'd knock the frost plugs out while they were easy to get at - glad I did... Yikes... And after another flush the loose bits were gone, but little bits of crap were still in there...
  17. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Then while I had space in the shed, I thought I'd mount the engine on a stand and tackle the stuck drain plugs... First one was textbook, welded on a large nut, and the heat and something to grip let me twist it out no bother. Fuck I'm good (I thought)... The other one however was a right crunt. Welded nut after nut onto it, and the metal of the plug kept fracturing as I tried to take it out... Tried upping the current for more penetration but it seemed the plug metal was pretty brittle... When there was fuck-all to weld to I ended up grinding it flat and punching it to try to drill it out... Drilled it through (fuckin hard stuff, whatever it was) and upped the drill size till I could try an ezy-out. I've had mixed results with these, so hit it with more heat to try to avoid snapping the hardened tool... But still no go. Ended up drilling it right out and tapping it inwards with a centre punch to crack the thread... and finally got the fucker... So here's me at the puter now having a well deserved dram... and yes, that bottle's empty so just cracked an Ardmore single malt...
  18. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Decided to do a bit straight after work as it was warm and windy, so good chance to wheel things outside and get the water blaster out... Amazing how easy it is to knock the grease off with a decent blaster... Surprised how good things were under there, pleased I made the effort while the guts were out of the way...
  19. Lord Gruntfuttock
    I NEED ONE... Well done
  20. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Won't have time to do much this weekend, wife's B/day plus taking the kids out to the crib to learn how to play in the surf, but had a look last night at why I couldn't undo the drain plugs - I've seen some rounded off heads in my time, but this is especially circular. Looks like a weld-a-nut-on job...
  21. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Found this diagram in my 1000 page pdf parts manual that may help with the Alt. And I dropped into the local auto sparky at lunchtime to see what they had. Showed him a brush and he immediately knew it was from an old Email (kudos), then said I'd be lucky to find any parts for it (crap). 20 odd years ago they had umpteen bits for them but they're pretty much a museum piece now. The good news is they did have the old metal can diodes on the shelf, plus suitable bearings, so I grabbed them while he looked for any brushes that may fit - but nothing was even close. These could be a problem, they measure around 9 x 5mm and he couldn't find anything suitable in their database either. Bit of a bugger I broke one getting things apart really... Rather than buy some parts and potentially get stuck without brushes he suggested a new Bosch 70A replacement, but at $300+ I said no thanks. I'd rather persevere with the original as I'm bloody-minded (I've started so I'll finish) - not to mention cheap. So I'll give it a go, I repaired this umpteen years ago and it is sound, and should go again all right, it's not like the old tape deck will draw enough current to stretch it. I bought the bits he had, then had a scout around on th' web. Eureka, 20 of these things ex Hong Kong delivered for around $10... So should have enough to get the old girl making volts again. Debateable whether I'd be better off just buying a new one, but it's not about that, eh...
  22. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Shit that's a stash...
  23. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Fark it's hot, mid 30's in Invers, not quite used to that... Anyway, got home and thought I'd better do a bit rather than sit under the aircon drinking beer, so wheeled the old tranny out for a cleanup. interested to see what it looks like under 40-odd years of grime... Plugged all holes with either rags/tape or fittings blocked with RTV... And wheeled it round behind the shed to my chemical hazard area (where no plants will ever grow again) and scrubbed it with petrol, a scrubbing brush, rags and a toothbrush, and it came out looking purrty... I know it makes no difference to how something operates but I like a clean piece of machinery. Love cleaning up some old piece of grot and bolting it back looking good...
  24. Lord Gruntfuttock
    Stinking hot in the shed and I couldn't be bothered doing anything too hard, so I looked at the Alternator (Factory Email job). it worked fine but there was a slight knock and I just wanted to tidy it up a bit. First step was to mark the cases with a punch so it went back together the same way... I had visions of opening it up, replacing bearings, cleaning the slip rings and putting it back together all painted/shiny and good for another decade, but these things don't come apart very easy... The pulley nut was pretty well stuck, and without a rattle gun I just persevered with tapping a spanner with the fins wedged against a block of wood till it came loose (will have to straighten a couple of fins). A bigger problem was the rear bearing wouldn't let go, so I had to remove the diode plates with the rotor in place, bent things to buggery and dislodged a couple of diodes in the process... And once that was out I could remove the stator... So finally in bits and a few repair jobs required rather than maintenance - but nothing terminal, and at least I can clean up the component parts now...
  25. Lord Gruntfuttock
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