Swampo

Very nice, are Stacked an import company? Also I recommend fitting some reflective stuff on to your wheels or something to make yourself a bit more noticeable, not for decoration but I know of someone who almost got t-boned in an AW11 because his one (midnight blue also) was hard to see by the other guy.

$800? Blimey, you know somebody who knows somebody? I think if that was listed on trade me it'd be gone fairly quickly. Good luck and it'll all be worth it in the end.

3 piece barrels? What are barrels? And because they are 3 piece the middles move independently right like "spinners" or SSR Longchamps? Will definitely check that page out cheers +35 offset is uncomfortable at rear in what way, Wannabe? Not lowered, stock suspension and stock gen1 14s lol

Good idea, will set the money aside. I suppose I will have to check regularly as something is bound to pop up Autostrada Modena are the closest ive seen to what I want in my PCD. If anyone knows of any similar 5 spokes made in 5x114.3, please let me know.

Sorry Azzurro, didn't mean taking illegally, (mondayitis!) I just meant like the internals. I.e. engine parts and suspension would be seized right?

Aloha guys just trying to figure out ways I can change the PCD of my car from 5x114.3 to 5x108? Why? Because I drive a car that shares the "poor man's Ferrari" moniker with the Fiat Coupe, and it shares "hairdresser" with many other cars too... I have an '91 Toyota MR2 (SW20) and after a long time of gazing at other cars and articles and such I've decided I want a "period correct" look which kind of goes after the poor man's Ferrari theme but without going too 90s JDM or 70s-80s i.e. Watanabes and Yayois. I think the car really doesn't do the JDM tuner look well and poor mans Ferrari is what I want to do, however I won't be fitting any crazy bodykits. Looks wise I just plan on colour matching my black rubber trim and fitting some sweet 5 spoke wheels with sticky rubber.. Note - perfect fitment has been suggested to me as: Front: 17x8 +35 offset and 215/40R17 Rear: 17x9 +35 offset and 245/35R17 - Wider tyres needed at rear because more weight is at rear and it maintains better traction. Staggered is the way to go for this particular car but some run normal 17x8 all over but personally due to my novice skill level I'd go with staggered. I originally wanted some HRE 505M's, but can't justify buying a set that will cost over 4x what I paid for my car - especially when said car is an NA daily driver and may see occasional track use. PICS: http://www.hrewheels.com/wheels/vintage-series/505m Would buy some of these: http://www.superformance.co.uk/348/wheels.html http://www.superformance.co.uk/308/wheels.html https://www.google.co.nz/search?q=volvo+940+70168&rlz=1C1CHJW_enNZ479NZ479&espv=2&biw=1570&bih=851&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAWoVChMIqZCJlc7oxgIVQeSmCh12QwAa Then there's the issue of getting offset and wheels in the right widths (9-10" rear is a problem) Do I go with spacers, possibly get the fenders flared or "pumped" professionally, wheel adapters, or just put up and go with some 5x114.3s? (I personally would go three spoke ADVAN as I like those more than the thin 5 spokes of today, chunkier ferrari-like 5 spokers have gone out of fashion IMO).

http://www.themotorhood.com/themotorhood/2015/4/23/lay-your-own-dynamat?rq=weekend%20workshop Apologies for delay, I had to figure out how to find their search function :/

would it be allgood taking parts from this decaying example?

very interesting will watch with keen interest. Not too interested in older european cars except Germans but do hope this goes well. Will be a beaut when it's fully done up.

Yeah that 24 year old rubber is buggered. One day I will upgrade to a K&N High flow filter or whatever.. money is an issue though but that will be rectified Cheers mate I sit my restricted in a couple of weeks, wouldn't mind cruising down to Hunua after that, heard there's plenty of twisties I'm always keen to give people a hand and receive help/advice, and attend more events in the future.

Fair enough mate, not jelly at all - I'm not too sure but I think those later 3s-ges were also found in Currens/Soarers/Celicas too? I'd love to have that engine though haha, I personally find it rude that today's family sedans and econoboxes can outperform older performance cars numbers wise. I think that is because I love muscle cars, and older cars! Hence a later Toyota engine would be great for mine. Did you have the model with the 14in rims and 1st gen suspension, later ones I think 1993+ had "safer" suspension. I've gone sideways whilst I was still learning my car, I used to own an 04 Suzuki Swift which I could get away with silly stuff in a FWD Can you run your new engine on 91? I only use 95, and on 91 from previous owner it had a lot of knocking/detonation in lower RPMS. I think increases in technology means that newer engines with higher compression ratios can sufficiently use 91 with no knocking. BTW - my fuel economy is around 7.2 - 7.7L/100km. I'd say I do 60% town driving and 40% motorway. Nice control of that snap oversteer haha

Sorry guys, here's pics of my SW20 MR2's air intake (3SGE) http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/jlmather/media/THE%202/IMG_08351_zpsl0pt6qkr.jpg.html?o=7 http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/jlmather/media/THE%202/IMG_08341_zpsbktegjij.jpg.html?o=9 http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/jlmather/media/THE%202/IMG_08331_zpsenumkczn.jpg.html?o=10 The part where it connects with the air box was the bit where I was having trouble. It was near impossible to move the air box away from the hose then to push the hose backwards in the engine's direction so to slip it back on again. Also, the hose can't be moved round willy nilly as it has a connection to something else which I didn't remove, and a thin vacuum(?) hose from the oil distributor(?) restricts the hose's movement. I got around this by using two jugfuls of boiling water on the hose - though I'd probably use a heatgun if I had one, which got it pretty supple (cheers Dave for the hint). Then fixed top of air box to hose, then attached other end of hose to engine and tightened up all fittings and put sensor thing back in. My air box goes on top of the filter (which sits on bottom half of box) as air is sucked up through the left side vents. I could only secure it down on 2/4 of clamps though so will have to monitor that it isn't flying up or wonky. May have to drill a small hole to fit cable tie in place of clamp maybe which are buggered. I really thought about the unfiltered crap flying in to my engine as I drove round with the hose not properly attached. I really want my engine to last as it is my daily driver and the main reason why I cleaned the filter is because I want to try regaining some lost hp on the cheap lol. Also because the hose blocking half of the intake similar to how a butterfly valve would look it'd restrict air flow somewhat. FYI if any other SW20 owners are reading you have to remove the small panel above the box which has two screws and a ground cable there. Remove carefully otherwise you'll scratch your glass.

The motorhood did an article on this earlier this year. A really good DIY guide.

Hey mate, I'm new here, first time reading a project and only chose it because it has 3sge in the title which my 91 MR2 has - second gen though. I assume your car originally had a 4age, and that your 3sge is a 5th gen out of an Altezza? Why did you go with the beams over say the Caldina 3sgte? I'm not asking disrespectfully just when my 2nd gen 3sge dies I'll probably upgrade to the Caldina's 3sgte. Re the dirt in your guards I'd give it a good waterblasting and then dry with a rag later. I'm a part of the mr2 forum, some of the AW11 owners I believe have removed panels or sections with removal of a bolt to dump out all that nasty dirt. Any sections could be filled with filler too.

Hey guys, first time for me doing anything to my engine earlier this week, just wanted to clean my air filter and get some cheap small hp gains and also some experience.. Was just wondering if the hose is only on the top half of the air box but I couldn't get it on the bottom of the air box connector, is that necessarily a bad thing? It's half on, with the bottom of the hose pushed upwards partially blocking the air box connector. All the connections have been tightened though. So it's sweet on the engine side, tight on the air box side but half-connected. I also used engine oil lol to loosen it up because I don't have any other lubricant, pretty sure that using engine oil can damage the rubber I think? But anyway, I went in thinking it would be easy, that the rubber would be gentle and easy to work with but it was anything but. New hoses could be a possibility, however I don't have the moolah for a new air intake kit right now.