GreenTC

I won't be heading down to the Wairarapa due to work commitments on Saturday and Sunday. But I am taking the 2500 to Napier via the Gentle Annie road on Thursday. May tag along with you blokes and turn off half way there if you're heading the dessert road route.

Awfully sorry to disappoint. But I'll be working for the man that day. Cheers, The bloke with the shit door lock knobs.

I am unfortunately suffering from a severe lack of motivation. I cant seem to get the bloody ratcheting starter to work on the NC50.

I'm keen. Will bring the NC50 if running at that stage. If not I will have to ride modern.

Triumps tend to do their own steaming. Money saved $$$, profit.

New battery has arrived for a grand total of $32. Battery Bill in Papatoetoe sorted me out. Now to replace all of the blown bulbs and see what happens. Also the drive case has sprung a big oil leak, but nothing a bit of RTV won't fix.

The bike came with another set of handlebars that don't have the inbuilt indicator mounts. So I'll swap to those and get rid of the front indicators. I have never had the rear indicators and I can't be arsed sourcing or fitting any. And with none at all it's more convincing to the cops that it's OE spec. Not that the exhaust is legal anyway.

Started off with a battery test. I'll get a replacement under way as well as new bulbs all round. Does anyone know if not running rear indicators will break the circuit? Or can I run whatever lights I want and just leave the other wires unplugged with no problems? Sorry for the noob questions, I'm electronically ignorant.

Ahhh, I didnt realise the lighting circuit was AC. I'm not a sparkies arsehole. I'll probably find a way to mount the stock tail light then. The original bracket is pretty well rooted.

Hi Guys, Rather than hijacking a thread I thought I'd post up here. It all started when I saw this for sale on Facebook whilst drunk: The price was $400. Live plates, 70cc kit, running and driving, rooted lights long exhaust. A mate and I had to have it. We split it $200 each and picked it up. First mod was to put a pod filter on the carb as it was using a bit of Chux cloth and a cable tie for filtration. Unfortunately every bulb in the thing is blown, I've been told by the OSGC's that I should check the battery and grounds first and then replace all the bulbs and see what happens. Wiring and electrics are not my strong suit, but the plan is to get at least the headlight and tail light working. I'm thinking about running just the headlight and a single LED tail light/brake light (Hella or simmilar). I know the Hella lamps are supposed to work on 9 - 33 volts, are there any similar ones that run on 6 volt power? After that all it should need is a number plate bracket and I'll be 2 stroking around in no time.

Triumph Lads to the rescue. I'd appreciate the details of your contact Neal, as well as that link if you can find it Connor.

Going to have to do engine mounts on the TC before its next WOF. Have you guys heard good/bad/otherwise about the rimmers ones?

Found a little bit of rust under the air intake for the heater. Had a fun little 6am Dremmel session. Neighbours love me.

Fair bit of TC action in Te Awamutu today. I quite liked the look of the below yellow sedan which was being driven by a couple of older guys. Also saw this 2500S being towed north past Hampton Downs, looks like it might be a good project for some lucky bastard!

The Hayabusa engine will have a frame around it, as well as some wheels, electronics and all the shit to make it work as a motorcycle. I was a motorcyclist before I was a Trump fiddler unfortunately. As much as I'd love a FREE rusty trump body shell on the front lawn, I'd probably be killed. I've got nowhere to put one or work on it yet. As far as the wood goes, that was a good condition dash that came out of a 75 2500 at pick a part, I just rubbed some Neopol on it. Have a go at doing some veneer, and then let me know how it goes.

Not thinking of making one until maybe next year. Currently all monies are being diverted into a Hayabusa fund.

Does anyone know of any threads where people have made a trailer out of a 2500/2000? I've seen a stag one, but can't find any for the 2500.

Wish my fuel pump didn't give up and I could've made it to Rotorua for a geez.

To anyone that guessed the fuel pump was at fault, you win. It was working intermittently due to one of the valves playing up. When I tested it, it was working. Probably why I missed it. Now it's been fixed she's running mint now.

Swapped the coil out this afternoon, it now starts but runs like absolute shit. Whole engine shakes and the engine is quite hesitant. It dies if I don't give it gas. The coil I put in today was an old one, I've ordered a new one for the sake of ruling it out as a possible cause. I don't think the timing could be out as I haven't touched it. I'll check valve clearances over the weekend as well, mainly because it's about time for them to be done.

In today's episode of office boy plays with old shit and fails I replace some bits and nothing happens. I managed to swap the HT Leads, Condenser, Rotor and Points. None of that helped me though. Still won't start. So I did what Blizzo reckoned and which the top off the carbs, I was greeted with this That blury yellow stuff is fuel, running a bit rich haha.

Cheers for all of the quality suggestions. However I removed the fuel line into the carbs and shes pumping a decent amount of fuel through. I dont think the line is blocked either as when I removed the inline filter there was good clean flow. My next guess is possibly the condenser. I've heart a faulty condenser can cause similar issues to what I'm having. I've ordered HT Leads, condenser, Dizzy Cap, and will see if that helps it. If not fuel pump diaphragm will be next. I've also gapped and slapped some plugs in it. Neal, how difficult is the diaphragm swap? If neither of the above options help the carbs will be getting looked at.

Was hoping to head down to Rotorua today but the TC wasn't having it. The car was intermittently hugely down on power. It would either pick back up or run roughly and die. It got to the point I couldn't restart the car and had to have it towed home. I believe the issue may be fuel related. To people who are familiar with these, is it usual for the fuel level in the sight bowl to fluctuate between 30% and 100% full? I thought possibly the inline filter was blocking the flow, but after replacing it I cut it open and it looked pretty good. Not bad enough to hinder flow I think. I've grabbed a set of plugs and I'll order a set of leads to take them out of the possibilities. If anyone has any suggestions as to why it might be intermittently down on power I'm all ears.

This is also me.

Fuck, look at the shine. Looking good.