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Posts posted by chasinthemirage
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55 minutes ago, 00quattro00 said:
You could turbo the 3b
How hard would that be? Worth turbocharging the 3B or better off just swapping the engine? I've never played with this sort of thing before. I'm really not looking for a project, just something that I can drive, maintain and enjoy but it'd be nice to have the option there if it does become too punishing.
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2 hours ago, kdotlowe said:
They're so rad. Been looking at purchasing one too but man the prices have skyrocketed recently.
Yeah spendy wee rigs eh. I test drove a 13BT one which was heaps quicker but a bit rougher and also a lot more expensive. This one was incredibly slow, literally like driving a small truck instead of a car but felt like it had heaps of torque. I don't see it struggling to get me anywhere I want to go as far as access to hunting blocks, maybe just a bit of a pain speed wise.
I didn't check behind the steering box but I might go back for another look, chassis and underbody looked good, bash plates and things hadn't been smashed like the last one I looked at. Sills had some surface rust but no dents, miles tidier than the last one. Quite keen but just a touch worried about how slow it is.
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Mwb with the fibreglass top I'm pretty sure. The rust is in the inside of the windscreen frame. Yeah the 13BT one I test drove was heaps faster but also a lot more spendy. This is it here
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Looking at buying an '89 BJ73 Land Cruiser. 5 speed manwell with a 3B. Only one small spot of rust I could find and seems to drive well. Yeah? Nah? Doesn't seem worth starting a thread.
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Hey dudes, I've had a read through this thread but am still a bit unclear on the best way for me to go about what I am trying to do. I'm in the process of shaping a comb raiser for the stock of my rifle to bring my line of sight up to where the new optic is mounted. I am currently using high density foam to shape a template, once this is finished what would you guys recommend as the next step? Do I need to go to the trouble of making a female mold from the template and then fibreglassing this or will a couple of coats of reinforced filler/bog over the foam be sufficient? It needs to be fairly sturdy as at some point its likely to get dropped but weight isn't too much of an issue and neither is the ability to make another as this is likely to be the only rifle of this type I build for awhile.
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16 hours ago, yetchh said:
Mine has bad habits on 14s..
What sort of bad habits? I put 14's on mine, definitely wouldn't go back to 13s.
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On 12/10/2018 at 06:15, d.p.n.s said:On 12/10/2018 at 06:33, kyteler said:
Sold as of a couple of weeks ago. Fella that bought it was planning on an RB25DET swap but it's been for sale on facebook a few times already so who knows.
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Have you got access to a forklift? I'd like to see some forklift flex pics plz
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I have one as well if you can't get Pete's one.
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Man oh man this is a sweet ute. A+
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Well done man, absolutely flying through it so far!
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Anyone heading to bike night on Thursday/keen for a beer somewhere?
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7 minutes ago, AALAWS said:
Didn't come up on carjam unfortunately
I just don't want to do all the work and then not be able to register it because of silly paperwork/proof of ownership yadda yadda........so you saying I don't need anything like that?
Doesn't appear on carjam at all or the info is hidden? I've got access to Motocheck at work if that's any use?
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So I no longer own this car, I told quite a few people at Hanmeet but in the interests of tidying up this thread I'll post it here too.
When I bought it I'd agreed to give the previous owner first option if I decided to sell up. I messaged him on facebook and and few days later he'd driven up from Timaru and away it went. It's the ideal outcome as far as I'm concerned, I've got some cash and one less thing to worry about and the car will be looked after by a genuine foamer who also happens to have the sister car to this Royale (identical spec and trim and one after another off the production line).
I have no idea what's next for me, maybe a Hilux, maybe some tickets back to Europe but it feels good to have got this car buttoned up and out of my hair. My sincerest apologies for no dose video.
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Does anyone have access to Toyota torque specs? 1KD-FTV in a Toyoace flywheel bolt torque setting? Can't get through to anyone in the local Toyota dealership.
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Add some yellow and orange stripes plz
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Oh man looks so good in that colour!
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Monday night I got the horn working, fitted the factory turbo heat shield and went for a blat around the block. The car was idling perfectly with the injector wire re-crimped and clicked back in but was cutting out once it hit boost. The gauges in these things aren't known for being particularly accurate so despite it having a quarter of a tank on the gauge I decided to put some fresh fuel in it before I started looking for issues that may not have actually been there. Last night I adjusted the parking brake, rebled the master cylinder and wheel brakes and treated it to 15L of 98 octane.
After letting it warm up for a few minutes I took it for a couple quiet laps around the block to check the brakes and get some heat into the rest of the driveline before giving it a bit of jandal. I took it easy as it's the first time it's been driven properly in a year but the brakes feel good and it pulls cleanly through the rev range. There's still a few things left to sort but it felt damn good to finally hear that wee T3 spool!
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As far as I know it's just running the stock 30E fuel pump.
Got it sorted, I'm an idiot. Never occurred to me to check the terminals in the injector plug! One of them had pulled out of the plug and was sitting inside the insulating boot. Will need a new plug at some stage but it's running sweet now!
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@chris r I'll give it a tap and cross my fingers. Unfortunately the rail sits between the two halves of the inlet manifold. I'm going to remove the throttle body and try to squeeze the rail past but I think I'll end up having to drain the coolant and take the top half of the manifold off to get it out.
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Righto, so to follow on from the above post I'd like to get the opinion of someone with some more EFI experience than myself. The whole time I've owned this car its run rough (it wasn't running rough when I test drove it before purchase).
It starts and idles but blows quite a lot of blue/black smoke upon startup and has a constant lump in the idle. The one time that I drove it it wouldn't accelerate past about 3500rpm. I have borrowed parts from my other VL in an effort to isolate the fault. One part at a time I have substituted the following: AFM, CAS, distributor rotor, distributor cap, ignition leads. I have also swapped the spark plugs between cylinders without any change. Removing the ignition leads one by one with the car idling showed that the miss is in cylinder number 4 as the engine note doesn't change with this plug disconnected. The miss has remained constant in number 4 cylinder despite swapping the parts. I have also compression tested the engine and found that all six cylinders were within 10psi of each other so I don't think it's a valve issue.
One thing I noticed when swapping plugs around was that the number 4 plug was very wet while the other 5 were black and sooty (it hasn't had a good run up to temperature in god knows how long so I'm not worried about the soot). With the car idling I removed the injector plug from number 4 without any change in the idling engine note. I then removed number 1 as its easiest to get to and there was a definite change in the engine note. (Both the removal of the ignition lead and injector plug were done very briefly as I didn't want to risk causing any further issues).
This has got me thinking that the number 4 injector is stuck open or leaking and constantly delivering fuel which is causing the miss. What do you fellas reckon? Is there anything else that I should be checking or trying before I commit to removing the inlet manifold so that I can once again take the rail and injectors out? I'm not entirely sure I've gone about this diagnosis in the most straight forward way but hopefully I've explained it well enough. Any advice would be greatly appreciated as I'd quite like to drive the thing without worrying about stuffing it!
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@DodgySam I think the issues that I'm having are due to over fueling rather than starvation. I checked over a few more things over the weekend, it has compression and spark but the number 4 spark plug is constantly saturated with fuel. I don't think it can really be anything else so I'll pull the rail off again and get the injectors flow tested and cleaned and hopefully that will solve the rough running issue I've been having.
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@Mof No way! I'm still yet to see one of the BT1's around, there's apparently one in Lincoln somewhere and there's a couple of them down in Timaru as well. So much pine!
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@kws I pined these things for years before finally buying one. I was always put off buy the unique mixture of Holden bogans and RB flatpeakers but they've been great cars.
I swapped the rotor too but the fault didn't go away until I started it using the new battery from my other VL. I've got a new one in the back of the car currently so I'll fit that tonight and see how it goes before I worry about anything else.
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Tech Spam thread - because 1/4" BSP gets 5 hand spans to the jiggawatt
in Tech Talk
Posted
I'm sure that plenty of swaps have been done before but the levels of cbf are high. Been trying to cut complications out of my life recently so the less projects to worry about the better at this stage*. I drive like a nana 99% of the time these days so will just roll as is I think. May be slow but haven't found too much that seems to go wrong with them.
*Googles 1HD swap