johnny.race

15 hours ago, Spencer said:

Ring cartune and pretend to be interested customer.

Yeah I did, well I sent them an email as I got the impression from their YT clips that they were flatout so didn't want to take their time up. Asked for ball park $ for a drive in drive out deal for driving in a 2.8 LN106 then driving out with a ls1 under the bonnet. They said around the 30k mark and that they were not taking on any new work due to current and booked work load. They also said they don't offer a kit to slip the GM engine into a lux - only a UZ. My personal preference is the LS over the UZ so ... I have since started looking at the Aussie sites for costs for the gearbox adapters and engine install kits. I've spent enough time under and around cars to accept that sometimes its better to bite the bullet and buy a kit than fuck around trying to reinvent something that's already been done a heap of times. Still deciding on box type too. Auto or manual. Like the idea of a slusher though. So yeah ... 

Hmmm, I've been watching some clips from Cartune NZ and they all seem to be lifted. 

Everything I have read on this topic involves the inclusion of a body lift. Does anyone have first hand info on why you need to lift the body? What part (or parts) don't fit or foul due to the body being left in the OEM body position in relation to the chassis. Cheers.

What is the Toyota version to Nissan's sr20? Do they go as well as an sr20?   

Out of interest, when these things are drag raced (reasonably) seriously - say into the nines or tens ... what sort of auto trans is used behind the barra?

Ahh for the days of a timing light and screw driver.

@chris rYour package has been uplifted and placed into secure lockup. Those two BB Chryslers in the background of the pic want to know wtf a scoota mota is doing in their shed. Yo to the power and reach of the oldschool freight service

. 

@chris r, have you got this sorted? Is it ok where it is currently or do you need to get it moved/shifted. I can provide a place/store it until you sort out freight if needs be. Just saying.

On 11/08/2020 at 15:32, Mark_Fleming said:

SR1600 - I really like those calipers with the integrated handbrake mechanism....any chance you can dissect one and show us the lever mechanisms? I take it there is some form of "paddle" between the piston and the pad to pull them together when in operation?

I got some in. Here's how these ones actuate the handbrake mechanism ...

1st 2 pics of what they look like with pads fitted.

These next 3 pics are taken with pads removed and the handbrake levers showing their movement. Basically each lever presses against the steel backing plate of each pad moving them against the rotor. 

Might talk to @Taistormsometime about how to go about the handbrake setting up if I can't figure something out myself. But yeah, this is how the Wilwood Powerlite handbrake setup essentially gets it done.

Hehe, what a funny old world ... most of us would kill for extra shed space where as some people just give it away.

@Mark_Fleming thanks for the info above Mark, this is excellent insight to something I've always wondered about. Out of interest, for the 9", is that main adapter plate in the diagram (that bolts to the housing) ... is that holed' for multi fit (like does it do both early and late big bearing bolt patterns) or do they use specific plates for each application. No biggie - just wondering. Cheers.

Ahh! I just stalked your project build and see what you are on about. Very nice! Some questions, those are the same calipers being sold by Cardwells, yes? And what is the bracket made from? Is it steel? And the biggie - what is the rotor being used please. I am looking at using DBA637 which is the stock replacement for the rear of an fc s4/s5 but am seeking info for a suitable 4 stud alternative.

I take it the spacer you're using is between the rotor and rim? Or is it between the axle flange and rotor?

Very nice indeed! I've got some more questions about the handbrake cable set up but want to know the big picture stuff first. Ta man. 

Cheers Clint @cletus I had an idea they would be looking something like your pic. I'm just scoping out the scene at the moment and collecting parts and idea's. I am having the hell time getting ahold of s4/s5 fc rears now. Strange that - they only stopped making them near 30 odd years, lol!

1 hour ago, Mark_Fleming said:

I have the same spot caliper setup from wilwood on a 9-inch.....the puck (brake pad) really is only for handbrake purposes.....I take it that's all you intend as well? If you need a bracket for that floating caliper PM me and I can lend you the Wilwood one for comparative purposes

Cheers Mark. A pic would suffice matey, if you could. and yup - I am heading towards what you have going on. Ta.

Have just come back from the yard ... revised it from OEM 4 pot to OEM 2 pot off something - to work with the spot caliper.  Just looking for options and insight. 

1 hour ago, Mark_Fleming said:

johnny.race - excuse my confusion.....what is your question regarding the wilwood 4 pot and auxiliary handbrake calipers?

Oh, I originally asked (and still are) if anyone had had any experience fitting Wilwood 4 pots (of the type that come with the integral handbrake) to a Hilux diff. Plus I also showed I was attempting to get to the same place using an OEM front caliper in conjunction with a mechanical spot caliper. Two efforts to reach an end state of vented rear disc/caliper setup on a Hilux diff that will pass cert. 

Asked in another post if anyone had had anything to do with adapting Wilwood calipers onto a Hilux differential - nothing. Hmmm. I'm going to purchase a pair of the (currently out of stock) Cardwell ones Pt No 120 - 13517 and fit them onto a Hilux differential. Thats current intention anyway. I know nothing about Wilwoods. I've never mucked around with any aftermarket brake calipers previously. Realm of race cars and rich pricks I always thought. Priced a pair of OEM style rear calipers with the integral handbrake that fit onto OEM rear vented rotors, lately? Thus the reason I am looking at the aftermarket option. I learned what radial mount' meant yesterday also too, lol!

Another direction to get to the same place I am looking at is this also ...

OEM vented rotors, a mech' aftermarket spot caliper and a soon to be identified OEM 4 pot from off the front of something. Both efforts aimed at a WOF application. Anyway ...

Radial mount. Anyone know anything about this sorta setup, done it, seen it done, know where such an adaption can be purchased yada yada.

Drop a plumb bob off each sill lap/join at a spot perpendicular to/with the tip of the gearbox output shaft and note the total width. Divide it in half and mark the true center of the vehicle on the floor. Next, drop a plumb bob off the center of the gearbox output shaft to see where it lands and how it compares to true center. If if sits to one side of true center (and it will) note to what side it does and by how much.

Measure the width of your OEM MoPar diff and determine if it has any pinion offset. Measure the distance from the end of your gearbox to the differential pinion and note it down. Draw it all out/up and get an appreciation for what drivetrain alignment MoPar engineered into your car.

Measure the total width of your new diff and determine if it has any pinion offset. Determine the difference in length between the two axles and subtract this difference from the side of the diff you plan to have shortened. Determine what effect this has on the pinion placement within the new width, draw it up and compare to the original offering.

This will give you a chance to check any change to drivetrain alignment you maybe introducing without realizing it. Just sayin.

I've had a few of those ute diffs come through here. From memory 3.27:1 was the ratio ... a little bit different than the normal 3.23:1 that are around. 

10 hours ago, Positive Ape said:

yeah, quotes from $700 to $1500 to fix diff. Depending on what bearings are stuffed. $1500 includes wheel bearings as well.

Is it worth swapping in a used rear axle you reckon?

Grab ahold of the driveshaft and see if its possible to induce any fore and aft movement. If it whines and you can get some back and front movement out of the pinion - get another diff. There is a good chance its worn 2 different wear patterns (lol!) on the ring. You'll never get it right after that. 

2 hours ago, 00quattro00 said:

Just picked them up. Came to $250 incl gst.

Full perimeter weld - nice. Were the centers moved inwards to give more dish to the outside? Mate, where he welded ... originally was the rim center scalloped with intermittent welding like in that last pic I posted  - and he has lopped all of that off and fully welded instead? Can you remember? Near all the OEM ones I have seen are scalloped to some degree. The ones that I have seen that look like yours are how the aftermarket provides them. Always interested in this sorta stuff. Cheers.

This is an example of what I have seen of how an OEM secures the center of a rim to the outer wheel hoop - press fit and spot welded. They are fucking big spot welds too.

This is typical on a steel rim - reduced diameter where the center is attached and then the diameter is increased quite close to it leaving little wriggle room for moving the center any appreciable distance.

This is a shot of the same rim from the front. From what i have seen, this is typical design/construction of most front wheel drive rims I've looked at. 

This is an older rim from off a rear wheel drive application and features the center secured to the outer by friction and weld. Notice there might be a more room for moving the center a little bit, but most rims you see today are not like this from what I've seen. 

I've been doing a few heads and reckon the best bang for dollar in terms of kit purchase are these from onlineautoparts. Don't go through TM - deal with them direct and save. Check out the matching trans pan drip trays - churr!

Haha, I noticed that too. No mention of a fabric in there.