johnny.race

I got some in. Here's how these ones actuate the handbrake mechanism ... 1st 2 pics of what they look like with pads fitted. These next 3 pics are taken with pads removed and the handbrake levers showing their movement. Basically each lever presses against the steel backing plate of each pad moving them against the rotor. Might talk to @Taistormsometime about how to go about the handbrake setting up if I can't figure something out myself. But yeah, this is how the Wilwood Powerlite handbrake setup essentially gets it done.

@Mark_Fleming thanks for the info above Mark, this is excellent insight to something I've always wondered about. Out of interest, for the 9", is that main adapter plate in the diagram (that bolts to the housing) ... is that holed' for multi fit (like does it do both early and late big bearing bolt patterns) or do they use specific plates for each application. No biggie - just wondering. Cheers.

Ahh! I just stalked your project build and see what you are on about. Very nice! Some questions, those are the same calipers being sold by Cardwells, yes? And what is the bracket made from? Is it steel? And the biggie - what is the rotor being used please. I am looking at using DBA637 which is the stock replacement for the rear of an fc s4/s5 but am seeking info for a suitable 4 stud alternative. I take it the spacer you're using is between the rotor and rim? Or is it between the axle flange and rotor? Very nice indeed! I've got some more questions about the handbrake cable set up but want to know the big picture stuff first. Ta man.

Cheers Clint @cletus I had an idea they would be looking something like your pic. I'm just scoping out the scene at the moment and collecting parts and idea's. I am having the hell time getting ahold of s4/s5 fc rears now. Strange that - they only stopped making them near 30 odd years, lol!

Cheers Mark. A pic would suffice matey, if you could. and yup - I am heading towards what you have going on. Ta.

Have just come back from the yard ... revised it from OEM 4 pot to OEM 2 pot off something - to work with the spot caliper. Just looking for options and insight.

Oh, I originally asked (and still are) if anyone had had any experience fitting Wilwood 4 pots (of the type that come with the integral handbrake) to a Hilux diff. Plus I also showed I was attempting to get to the same place using an OEM front caliper in conjunction with a mechanical spot caliper. Two efforts to reach an end state of vented rear disc/caliper setup on a Hilux diff that will pass cert.

Asked in another post if anyone had had anything to do with adapting Wilwood calipers onto a Hilux differential - nothing. Hmmm. I'm going to purchase a pair of the (currently out of stock) Cardwell ones Pt No 120 - 13517 and fit them onto a Hilux differential. Thats current intention anyway. I know nothing about Wilwoods. I've never mucked around with any aftermarket brake calipers previously. Realm of race cars and rich pricks I always thought. Priced a pair of OEM style rear calipers with the integral handbrake that fit onto OEM rear vented rotors, lately? Thus the reason I am looking at the aftermarket option. I learned what radial mount' meant yesterday also too, lol! Another direction to get to the same place I am looking at is this also ... OEM vented rotors, a mech' aftermarket spot caliper and a soon to be identified OEM 4 pot from off the front of something. Both efforts aimed at a WOF application. Anyway ...

Radial mount. Anyone know anything about this sorta setup, done it, seen it done, know where such an adaption can be purchased yada yada.

Drop a plumb bob off each sill lap/join at a spot perpendicular to/with the tip of the gearbox output shaft and note the total width. Divide it in half and mark the true center of the vehicle on the floor. Next, drop a plumb bob off the center of the gearbox output shaft to see where it lands and how it compares to true center. If if sits to one side of true center (and it will) note to what side it does and by how much. Measure the width of your OEM MoPar diff and determine if it has any pinion offset. Measure the distance from the end of your gearbox to the differential pinion and note it down. Draw it all out/up and get an appreciation for what drivetrain alignment MoPar engineered into your car. Measure the total width of your new diff and determine if it has any pinion offset. Determine the difference in length between the two axles and subtract this difference from the side of the diff you plan to have shortened. Determine what effect this has on the pinion placement within the new width, draw it up and compare to the original offering. This will give you a chance to check any change to drivetrain alignment you maybe introducing without realizing it. Just sayin.

I've been doing a few heads and reckon the best bang for dollar in terms of kit purchase are these from onlineautoparts. Don't go through TM - deal with them direct and save. Check out the matching trans pan drip trays - churr!

Haha, I noticed that too. No mention of a fabric in there.

Mate, I have (decent) hands on experience in narrowing housings and axles. Re heads ... yeah I suppose so but more from a rebuild of whatever Ford or Hilux head is in front of me. And then, its either a spool or an OEM offering of some sort. This said, upon looking at where that link lead to, the things that popped into my head were - its not out of the ordinary to see axle length (spline) sticking right through side gear and into the center in a open differential head so some trimming might be required and the price. Its priced to take a chunk out of the lower end of current offerings on the aftermarket. I wonder if it requires its own sidegears that have been surfaced or something. Anyway, chur.

@gingerninjaHey bro ... I see this is your first post. Usually (for any prick with a sense of decorum) new posters introduce themselves/tell fibs at our front door in 'Introduce yourself' - prior to heading to the shed and having at it. Just saying.

Simon Burneys 40' Ford Coupe. The car was an animal and its owner was loose as. Before this reincarnation (and its still like this 30 odd years later) this coupe was a red oxide primer patchy looking ruffy. It ran a 402 BB Cheb and 4 Speed. Simon always rode it hard. I'll go out on a limb here but I'm remembering it was one of the first cars to front up with a narrowed bum all tucked under with a link suspension. I remember the hand formed alum bucket seats - unheard of for the time. Most cars of the era (and especially ones that were still tooling around on the street like this one did or did previously when in primer) wore their big tires sticking out and featured jacked up arses. Damn, I loved this jacked up look. The quintessential street racer. But yeah .... Simon Burneys manual BB pre-war coupe. Sowed the seed for wanting something similar of my own one day.

Farrrkk!!!!!!!! Ray Channing (RIP bro) in Rampage!!! 289 and a 4 Speed. Excessive RPM and brutal shifting technique. Loved it. Thankyou Nels.

The only factory 9" disc brakes I've seen are those ones that came on the Lincoln Versailles. Were the ones that you fitted that sort or something else, out of interest.

I believe that's one of those urban myths handed down, thrown about, passed on by hearsay, not from actual ownership. My 5c worth anyway. I've had/got the odd pair and some have suffered from sitting for long times out in the elements like anything would. Most of them still had function though. These are getting near 40yrs old now if you are talking BW. Go through them and keep them on a toy that lives in a shed and you'll have no problems. Fucked seals, old moisture laden DOT3 sitting in them and lack of use are what I reckon have given them a bad rep.

From my experience fucking around with fitting different axles/disc brake combinations with Falcon based BW's, the seal height/thickness matters. The seals used in the Ford BW's come in 3 different thicknesses from what I have seen. Two of them are quite close to look at where as the 3rd one is noticeably thicker. Its a trap for players though, but you can tell if what you have fitted is the correct one by pushing and pulling on the axle flange in order to see if there is any backlash evident after its fitted. On a BW there should not be any due to it running tapered bearings. As well as providing a seal for the housing - they provide bearing pre-load. Same deal as a Set20 on a big bearing 9". Just saying.

So the brake offset/backspace is the same on both diffs? Plus the backing plate bolt pattern on the Salisbury and BW are the same also?

Old thread I know, but here is an observation I've been able to make. I said I had a quartet of those black ones pictured above, thought they looked pretty beefy and had no complaints with them. They look near enuff the same as what @JoKer and @nzed were using but I can now say with confidence - they ain't. I just purchased a pair of those $91 ones and as I was unpacking them they felt light and not at all like the 4 that were sitting in the shed. These ones look the same at a glance but when put to a tape measure and verniers - are lighter all round. They are pressed from 2.5mm plate as opposed to the earlier ones 3mm and the supporting rod is skinnier on these new ones. I can now see how @nzed fucked his one. Before i put these into service i am going to blaze some reinforcing onto them so that mishap does not happen to me. Just saying.

It depends on a few things and funnily enuff, it can boil down to what drill size you have available. The NICE range of wheel studs available through most places like RipCo and Super Cheap etc will cover anything you want to do. There is an online catalog for NICE. This said, I've reused the OEM wheel studs heaps of times when they have measured up as being suitable. When using aftermarket ones, make sure you check the specs for length and diameter of the splined portion. Make sure you know your existing axle flange thickness. Make sure its all compatible. Thickness of the hat and type of lug nut plays a part also - in terms of length. Then there is the interference fit you'll need to figure out. Take your time with this stuff because its easy to fuck it all up and waste the axle. and your time in it.

Yeah, that's a thought. Will think on it/do something when I am working on it/finishing it all off next. I pulled the electric motor off in order carry out some isolation works but got waylaid. I want to isolate it (electrically) from the rest of the structure and welder. I am not sure why except to say its an AC unit and I don't want the welder to earth thru it or fuck it in any way ... and turn everything electrically hot (if that's possible) I am not a electrician so don't know the intricacies of it all but just going to isolate the fucking thing so its not an issue. I am going to earth directly to the rim I think. It only does one revolution so don't need a fancy swivel or anything. Will see. Cheers.

I use the retaining ring to press the bearing on. Doing it like this means all the force of the ring is concentrated on the part of the bearing you want to be pushing on. The bearing and the ring seat together. There is not hammer or torch in sight when fitting bearings and the operation seems smooth as fuck. A decent press and appropriate jig helps though. Read the fine print in the blurb TIMKEN enclose with each of their bearing sets .... don't use heat it says the last time I read it. Re using heat - I'm guessing the same school that taught you to use heat on the shrink ring also taught you to use heat on the end of an axle before you went at it with a piece of HSS. Its all oldschool thinking I reckon. You can tell when a ring has been put on using heat ... on a Hilux axle the rubber seal is all blistered/fucked looking and the BW's and 9 Inches sometimes have a blue hue going on. All that said though, I have never heard of any axle mishap occurring due specifically to what method was used to fit the retainer ring, but fuck hammering bearings.

Yep. He's holding the big end in a divider by the brake register. He's doing light cuts because he's got no support behind the axle and the color of his chips say so. He'll be ever so careful when he's doing his test fits with a side gear with the tailstock removed ... all that axle sticking out unsupported. He'll chock it up using that big hunk of iron sitting in the middle there. Its almost if i am there, aye?! Lol! I love seeing the different setups and are reasonably versed in the challenges of the task in hand. He won't be turning down the bearing journal OD if that core is from an AU. They are the same size as Valiant used already/in stock form. He maybe attempting to alter the brake offset distance? Thinning the inside hub shoulder down? Ummm ... the brake register hub diameter would be bigger on the Ford too? Good stuff. Keep us posted.