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bmxnz11

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Everything posted by bmxnz11

  1. Cleaned up some engine parts, brake booster, battery tray, rejetted the idle jets, new gasket for the oil pump, removed and cleaned up the swaybar mounts. I assembled and put the new waterpump on the engine but forgot to put the alternator tensioner on! Removed the assembly and in doing so I had to destroy the new gasket. Happy to know the vnt copper gasket spray works very well. All put back together and assembled the rest of the motor for a start up. Unfortunately it wouldn't catch on any cylinders and a couple of back fires through the carbs. The only thing that has changed is I've leaned out the pilot jets from a 35 to a 32 and adjusted the fuel screws. Will check these and any potential vaccum leaks tomorrow. Have since cleaned up a few more cables. Good old British workmanship. Bonnet stay/post should have been centered.
  2. Bike carbs having been running ok. Have just been fiddling with them with a length of hose and a color tune. They make a glorious noise when opened up Was searching for ages for a particular rev counter. I wasnt keen on mounting it on the pillar, steering column or bonnet. Had always wanted to put one in place of the drivers air vent, which is out of the way and looks subtle. I finally found one at a swap meet and it slotted straight in. Just made a bracket on the back and mounted the original vent below (picture was before I mounted it). For some reason it reads 500rpm too low? I've double checked it's set to the 4cyl. Cant complain for $10. Bonus 'escort' brand. I pulled the rear leaf springs and air shocks to use on my other van, and replaced them with standard parts plus a couple of 2inch blocks. Cheers @Beaver for the u bolts, matches the shocks! Drove it through summer. Had no problems hauling bikes, hauling parts and a couple of camping trips including the maiden wagnats trip. The van ran fine, really needs an extra gear though. Had an awesome time, definitely keen for that one again. Went to start the van the other day and noticed a rather large puddle of coolant on the ground which ended up in this. Ive taken the opportunity to take more out than necessary to clean up the engine bay and change a few gaskets. I've adjusted the tappets and ordered a new water pump, which I'll install after repairing a small leak in the radiator. I've noticed its started getting a bit fumey out the oil cap once its warmed up. The only thing I have changed is the venting. The pvc valve now goes into a small filter, instead of back into the manifold. Would this be a factor? Compression checked a few months ago which was 160-180 across all four. It also has the magic '37' stamp which I believe is a gt head.
  3. Looks really good. What was the structure/folded edge like behind the guard?
  4. I'll go straight from work. Since Terry's out, anyone else able to give me a ride to the CBD after?
  5. I'll head straight from work if anyone is able to give me a ride to the train station/cbd afterwards?
  6. Finally getting back into this after a few months away. Have decided to paint the outside in two sections which hopefully makes it a bit more manageable. The obvious way was to section off the roof. The other reason for doing it this way is to ensure there is plenty of paint in the gutters which are prone to rust. By sectioning it off, it gets painted when the roof is done, and again when the sides get done. This ensures maximum paint without making a mess. Have been sanding for the last couple weeks. My weak little office arms really struggled with painting the roof today but I'm pretty happy with the outcome.
  7. Are you flaring the rear quarters as well?
  8. Anyone able to take up a couple of wheels and tyres to wagnats for bistro? Theres a set of four but I doubt I'll have room to take them all. Can bring them tonight.
  9. Theres a sweet mtb park in wainui on the way to the camp ground which I'd recommend. Also, have you sorted a shelter?
  10. I went to the Orongorongo river last time but that's a 10km walk return. Could possibly lay in the stream which runs right beside camp.
  11. With this nice weather, it would be rude not to. I've really enjoyed otaki the last couple years. Decent drive out to the middle of no where.
  12. Got this a wof in august. Needed to replace a few things like steering rack, engine mounts and a brake cylinder. Kind of put it on the back burner while working on the orange van and house. I played around with the jets in the bike carbs and felt I got them a bit better. Still seems to run rich at idle, pilot/fuel screw screwed in quite far, and doesn't have the pick up at mid range when I put the foot down. Yet to investigate too much. Have started to make an air filter housing for the carbs. Using a cut down filter from a Hyundai pony? It was cheap at a swap meet so I built the housing around that. Carved up a wooden template and used the press to make the initial swage in the lid. Folded and cleaned up the edges before pressing and drilling holes for the thread studs to hold it all together. Will probably just clearcoat it. Next step is to actually tune the carbs better.
  13. Have sprayed a few more items. Battery tray, all door jams, bonnet and had redone the engine bay 'bubble' because it was easier to do the whole thing then to fix a couple of runs. Couple of areas had to be touched up as I didnt wait long enough between coats and had solvent boil. Aligned the rear doors for final assembly before paint. Will put some seam sealer around the hinges to lock out any water. Put in the new door pins on the drivers door and sealed in the drivers guard. The sealer is a soft material that will provide protection from the wheel well but wont 'glue' the guard on permanently. Originally the guards are welded on but I've decided to reattach it with sealant and bolts. Will align the passenger door with new pins then I can start prepping the body for paint. Also made up a new base plate for the subframe and welded that on.
  14. Changed the pilot jets in the carbs from 38 to 35 and played with the fuel mixture. Remove an air hose I had blocked and This time on start up, the choke increased rpm and didnt kill the motor. Heading in the right direction. Went for a drive and it struggled under load at mid range and had the odd backfire through the carb. Idles fine so I'm picking it's time to play with the slides.
  15. Wired in an electric bike fuel pump which fixed the over fueling issues. Tuned them with a vaccum gauge but had trouble so resorted to a hose to my ear. Threw a colortune at it and it was running rich all through the range. Wound in the pilot jet all the way and it was still rich at idle. Have ordered some jets from aliexpress and will play with them. Have driven it around the block a few times and it certainly comes on song. I had to horey up a return spring, ended up using an old matchbox chassis. Have yet to rectify this.
  16. Ended up going with signal orange 79. It's an original color for an escort, but not this van. Sampled a blue and a different signal 77 orange but settled on this. Have been spraying it in sections. Engine bay, interior and inside of the doors. Still a while to go before I can spray the outside but its certainly progress!
  17. I'll come check these ribs out. Will have to leave about 8.30 but shouldn't be a problem.
  18. I've done both floors and sills in my mk2 vans and did them a little differently each time. But each time I built them from the inside out. Ie, built the floor and inner sill so it sits flush against the original sections and outer sill. Cut out the outer sill and pillar, and repair them. Lapped and plug welded were the factory joins were, and butt welded the other. Another suggestion would be to cut your floor out even further towards the gearbox tunnel. Slice the floor where it runs along the middle of the chassis so half the original floor is covering the chassis and the other half needs new metal. This is a very strong area to weld because it will also be plug welded to the chassis and it means your join going north south wont be seen from underneath due to the chassis being in the way. Keeps WOF man happy. Keeping it in factory placement and less joins, I would also suggest cutting out more of the floor going towards the firewall. The floor overlaps the floor slightly and is plug welded. Take that out and replace. You will only need to lap and plug weld this section of the floor on. Again, it saves making another join. If you did it this way, you will only have the one join showing going from the sill to the gbox tunnel Hopefully the above makes sense. The photo below will show you what I mean.
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