piazzanoob

Hey mate 

Im not sure if you are aware of this or not but mounting the msd 6al boxs inside the vehicle can cause unwanted noises into the vehicle cabin 

in the sound of electrical noises. ive not experienced this noise myself but have been made well aware of it. but understand your logic in fitting it where it is 

nice work on what has been done so far anyhow

11 minutes ago, yoeddynz said:

Maybe I'm too old and not down with the kids on latest cool plate acronyms - I can't work out what you mean? 

DTF 

down to fuck 

thank me later 

 Best plate for a march 

On 07/04/2022 at 13:27, The Bronze said:

@piazzanoob what time did you show up? Queues or pretty smooth?

I turned up about 2 mins due of the movie starting at 8pm but waited for about 10 before it started 

watched American graffiti and drove straight in no security or anything. but wasn't many cars i was the only car in the back row other than the projector truck. but suspect this being the first one of the year 

Can confirm this is a great way to see a movie and good excuse to get your car out. 

Probably a good date idea.. But I don't have that much success 

For all you foamers 

while in the nelson region i highly recommend the nelson car museum in town. its actually really good. oh and the wanaka car museum is also great. did a bit of a looksie last year and was great.

On 23/12/2021 at 20:41, Flash said:

Thanks for the feedback @Raizer. Am I correct in assuming I shouldn't have to fit relays to run the h4 LEDs ?

I would be fitting a relay to the front lights that's for sure 

helps with light output and load on the system as the wiring on these old cars can be quite bad.

and definitely when upgrading the lights   

Have used Avon towing who are West akl based and would recommend. 

Use them for all customers vehicles at work easy to deal with and good operators. 

Wouldn't use super city myself. Had a issue where one of there operators was too lazy to connect winch and had a 100k plus roadrunner slide off the back and drop half a metre while he was sliding and tilting the deck. Tried to blame it on the shop he collected it from but his load his problem. Never trust an old car and its handbrake Lucky no damage but stopped using them since 

On 08/10/2021 at 10:28, oldrx7 said:

Has anyone had experience with belts and cert / compliance? 

I tried reading through the nzta guidance but got lost and couldn’t really find solid rules around 2 and 3 point belts.

What have they failed the belts on?
When I complied the galaxie I had to go through seatbelt stuff which cletus ended up doing paperwork for to keep the lap belts 

I'm currently trying to find the correct paperwork to fill out for a vehicle re registration purpose. 

Old owner de rego'd it and I purchased off him and want a paper trail that I bought it off him. To comply it again. 

I'm aware I can do a statutory of declaration but trying to find a vehicle specific one. But also old owner isn't local so can't just fill one out and get it signed etc 

Been to a local vtnz but they didn't have a clue and told me to ring nzta. 

And checked with a compliance officer and he is going to send me the file which is on nzta apparently. But who knows when

I've searched and can't find any documents on nzta. 

Anyone know what form? 

On 04/10/2021 at 07:45, locost_bryan said:

sounds like that would be good for lubing the channels on the windup windows too

Yup 100%

Would use dry glide myself as can get in a aerosol can to get in there and doesn't seem to dry out 

you could use rubber grease silicon spray or crc dry glide. 

22 minutes ago, AALAWS said:

Either they have changed the rules, or you struck it lucky? The VTNZ people I talked to said they have to see the car on their property so that's it for me.
 

VTNZ are very good at being useless sometimes 

talk to land transport about it and see where that goes 

5 hours ago, tomble said:

Great idea, does that brunox can you linked screw directly on to the SCA style gun?  

The blaster has his own trolley to move the car. 

Once it's back from him we don't really need to move it as a priority... it can sit there while we noodle around.  At some point it needs to go to the panelbeaters but I'm hoping they'll have a trolley too?

If not, worst case is we paint and deaden the underside and prioritise putting the suspension back on.  Which I guess shouldn't just be the existing shite if possible, if need be we could slap it back on as-is but I'd rather get it all spruced up first.  So this'd be the long route

 

 Ah dang it appears it probably wont due to the length of the bottle and size of lid. measured the brunox lid and its 63mm. but there might be a product similar to brunox that comes in a 1 litre that connects to the SCA gun but would have to do some research. and many cavity waxes and body underseal connect to the SCA style gun.

oh sweet. most standard panel beaters i would think wouldn't have a trolley but if the shop does resto type work then probably would.

otherwise was going to suggest that you buy a set of 4 castors and make some brackets and bolt them to the front and rear chassis rails so the car is easy to move around. As i was thinking moving your bare shell for transport wont be very easy. 

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/mopp-1203-quick-tech-body-casters

https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/215086-please-share-your-body-dolly-designs/#comments

some ideas for you. 

that way moving the shell around is easy for transport and the panel and paint shops and for you of course.

Also feel free to PM me if you need any advise or help with something. or just ask around on the many topics on the forum and someone will help you.  

woah wasn't expecting it to be stripped this far but good work!

Im glad you had a great experience getting the sound deadening off as i did it just with a sharp chisel. mine was time consuming and sucked. 

also definitely try and clean the car prior to blasting some good degreaser and a water blaster would be the go. 

also providing the car doesn't have any rust in major structural areas. and wont need any metal work in those areas before the car gets sent for blasting spray all in the cavities of the shell with a product called brunox. you can buy it in a spray can or 1 litre container. which you can also thin out if need be. will prevent the vehicle rusting from inside out 

https://www.pacer.co.nz/product-group/1562-brunox-epoxy-rust-killer/category/301-brunox

And buy a underseal gun to spray it through all the holes through the chassis rails sills and pillars like something like these. but you will need a hose with a nozzle to get all in there 

 https://www.supercheapauto.co.nz/p/sca-sca-body-deadener-spray-gun/576116.html

 http://www.prolan.co.nz/product_details/d/1/c/57/p/80 i got one of these but somehow paid a whole less than just looking online and it came with the hose too as its normally and extra item. but this may have been an error from the panel supplies i got it from.

because doing this after it being blasted is likely to glue all the sandblasting garnet in there. as it gets literally everywhere which could cause more rust if moisture gets in. then after the car has been painted spray some cavity wax in the same places prior to full reassembly.   

also what's your plan now for moving the shell now there is no drivetrain? 

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/trucks/other/listing/3270831056?bof=a4TWmn4n

35 minutes ago, jackeo21 said:

As per project thread I made this fan shroud today.

What is the general consensus on fans? My other cars use solid mounted fans, of the flexi plastic spec and steel spec. They do the trick but eventually get nice and hot if they sit and idle too long (as to probably be expected for old cars).

I notice many turn to electric these days but for the sake of an "original period look" I think I'd like to hang on to my steel bladed wind maker.

 

A good mechanical fan is a much better option over electric. Im not sure on difference for cooling between clutch and no clutch. but size of fan and blade angle and how many blades is the key. some of the plastic style fans work well. as to traffic many old cast v8's get hot while idling and that's where a good push style fan can help. 

And many go to electric for the look and that mechanical fan's can take up horsepower. but same deal with electric is fan design and having a shroud. a good cfm and quality fan isn't the cheapest option either. but other things like alternator output needs to be checked before fitting good fans. 

your mopar's probably only got a 60amp alternator as normal for the era. so if fitting a good electric fan setup that would need an upgrade also.    

@MopedNZ

Are all CVT / Twist And Gos and the 125cc limit have any exemptions? not expecting a scooter or bike that have all of the above to be allowed entry or anything  

like a old trutest type thing? as pretty much all of them are CVT

mopars of this era had two different size radiators. not sure if its between a big block and small block v8 or a 6cyl and v8 car. but should have a 3 core rad if its a big block. 

A common mod is to trim the front radiator panel to fit the bigger mopar radiator which your car may need. if you decide you need a replacement radiator a good quality ali radiator can be bought from  http://www.aussiedesertcooler.com.au/index.html they build good ones but price does also reflect that. they also can put the Chrysler emblem on the top tank too. 

work has used them on plenty of cars when the budget allows 

also good to see the progress  

@Flash i bought a eastwood one to do the sills in the galaxie. i had trouble getting the supplied rods and the tool to hold enough to pull the metal. i ended up making one that worked better out of threaded rod and panel steel. worked well 

i would think the eastwood one would be better on thinner steel and not yank cars and more flat panels. 

on page 3 of my galaxie build there is a photo of the two pullers used