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Posts posted by a.craw4d
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Any engineering shop with a lathe big enough to spin the wheel could do this.
I did 2 wheels recently and only took 1/2 an hour, $50 for the customer.
Chucked the wheels in a 4jaw chuck with a big live center against them and just used a parting off tool.
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5 minutes ago, Indiana_Jones said:
Love the old army stuff, would love to get a Daimler dingo or ferret one day.
Is one of those the small 4 wheeled tank type thing?
Old boss has one of those too. Was road registered and would commute to work in it sometimes.
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17 minutes ago, nzstato said:
It is a pretty cool truck, even I’m partly interested. It’s in Mosgiel, the old boy wants the lot to go to an enthusiast. Reach out if interested
My old boss has a couple of those gmc's including a 6x6. Also has a few of the CMP's? He called them puddle jumpers.
Not a place mid way between Mosgiel and Outram by chance?
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I can weld that no problems.
Done heaps of shitty oil filled cast alloy stuff and it's fairly easy too. Probably be couple hours max in it.
Good surface clean.
Grind a big vee weld prep, go nuts here. You need a bit of room to get the tig torch to the bottom of the vee. Leave only 1-2 mm wall thickness at the bottom of the vee with the original break so it lines up perfectly. File the ground surfaces so it's clean, a grinder tends to rub and fold alloy over itself trapping crap in there.
Good preheat to draw the shit out and final clean.
With the tig tack it together. Here's where you need to take your time. Set the tig to a bit more cleaning than penetration. Strike the arc and puddle the torch around a big area. (Don't add filler yet. Castings are full of air bubbles and you don't want to try add filler wire on top of a bubble).
Keep moving the torch around until the bubbles come to the top and the surface becomes smooth and shiny. Now you can add filler.
Once all tacked in place, clean up any more oil that's come out. Then use the above technique to clean and weld the rest of the join.
If crap keeps getting drawn through when trying to get a clean smooth surface then dial in a bit more cleaning on the balance control. Don't be tempted to chuck filler in there to cover it up, it goes pear shaped.
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The above bike just got tuned on the dyno on Friday.
Stock pipe, 116hp.
My pipe, 153hp.
The power curve was constant up to about 245kph.
Was not expecting that much increase.
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Exhaust system finished.
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^^^ seen that today too.
There was a XB shape falcon coupe in the tire shop behind BNT as well.
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3 hours ago, zep said:
That's not my car, just an example. I have black seats/carpet/headliner. Door cards also likely to be black with some kind of accent.
What color is the car?
Have the accent match or compliment the exterior color.
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Think a cheap twist and go with your feet down would be the safest option. Can just bail if it starts getting away.
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I was going to say you can cold roll leaf springs.
Separate them all and chuck em back and forth through some rollers.
Have lowered a set with that technique with good results.
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@Willdat? remove springs and post pics please.
Cheers.
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On 11/03/2022 at 20:16, yoeddynz said:
Makes the engine bay look tidier without the hard work of delooming. Could've painted the overflow bottle too though.
And the routing of the accelerator cable annoys the shit out of me.
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On 07/03/2022 at 22:04, rusty360 said:
I'm still amazed how true you guys get those old wheels to machine them! How much do you normally machine off?
They just go in a big 3 jaw chuck. The older wheels are a lot more rigid than all the newer crap. Never seen a cracked hotwire.
Edit.
Might take up to 0.3mm off the face. Sometimes 1mm off the outer lip where the worst curbing is.
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The cast surface isn't usually too bad, a quick sand will easily level it out.
Painted rims come into work quite often that look and feel really bad but sometimes it's just the paint that's chipped with little to no damage to the alloy underneath.
Got any pics of the wheels in question?
I like a machined finish but that's because I'm too lazy to polish. That and I don't really know how to polish alloy.
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The paint on some alloys is fairly thick. Is soda blasting first an option?
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@RUNAMUCK @- i5oogt - might know someone.
They both love Datsuns so know rust on a very personal level.
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https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/cars/nissan/march/listing/3452536732
Manual 2 door with close ratio racing gearbox just waiting for the big block conversion.
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Waiting on @yoeddynz to chime in / trying to avoid the Micra rabbit hole.
Does one need the big block loom to drop it into a 1.0 chassis or just whack it in and full send?
Asking for a friend.
Auckland engineer shop to split 14" wheels
in General Car Chat
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