4AGEMAD

Beaut thanks man, have herd its the middle lobe on the inlet cam is what brings these motors to becoming an 'interference' motor.

Cheers rookie. @downtrail: unfortunately the vvt pully is all pressed together and spring loaded. But never mind, placing it at full advance then fitting the cambelt should do the trick

Vvt advances the intake camshaft 30° taken at the crank or 15° at the cam pully. Really appreciate all your input thank you guys. So by gathering all of the information, the best way it seems to go about this is: Bottom end assembled sitting at btdc #1, plasticine on piston dome, with old headgasket torque down head, assemble cams and set the intake cam as close to if not more than 15° advance and fit on the cambelt. (Obviously will be all timed up correctly) wind the engine over, remove head and see results. Sound about right? Another thing, what would be an ideal clearance measurement you would see on a high comp engine?

That will be great thanks mark. Cheers for the input guys,that was the stuff I couldn't remember. I hear you there unclejake, I now remember the majority of examples I saw were with push rod engines rather than cambelt so makes sense. Yeah ive herd mixed opinions about it aye, but if I could borrow corollagt's one thatll even better.

So heres my jam, I am currently building a 4age 20v with 284/278 duration - 9.3mm/8.5mm lift cams, high comp pistons, 0.8mm steel headgasket and machined block & head. My reasoning for wanting to measure my p/v clearance is that i'd like to retain VVT to help with the now would-be lack of power down low. Now Kelford state that VVT can be retained but with the extras that i'm adding i'd like to be 100% sure that nothings going to get all fancy up in there. I have been doing some research on this and have found a few different ways in doing this, each have their own pros/cons and each party bagging each others opinions, i'm not wanting to start that here, just wanting your opinions/reviews on a collective, ideally to have been done on a flat tappet styled engine similar to mine. The most common way I found was to use playdough or the likes & place a thin layer of it on top of the piston. Using an old head gasket (which i dont have) sit the cylinder head on top of the block and turn the crank over to TDC #1 followed by turning the cams 360 degrees. Remove the head, cut a small indented section of the playdough out and measure its width with a set of verniers. Would this be a reliable way of measuring p/v clearance taking into account heat expansion etc at high rpm's. All opinions and views welcome.

Quick shot of what is ment to be

Got a few things done today, Decided to put in my Toda billet pump gear. No change in design, just stronger to withstand high rpm's Block as it stands now, decked and honed. Will clean it, paint it black and fit new brass frost plugs. Passengers gutter drain still had anti-rust coating still left on it, good enough foundation so boged over the weld patch and added a smooth incline for the water to drain out. Bit hard to feather it out in a confined space but turned out ok. I'll coat it all with cavity wax when finished. Have a set of TE71 electric chrome fender mirrors to replace the ebay speshes, Waiting on availability for the factory kp mirror switch *fingers & everything crossed* Will post pictures next weekend once its fitted up. Bottom end can go together now, just waiting on a set of thrust washers......dam lucky i'm a patient person!

Depression post.. 50% of this build is on waiting for either parts/work to be done or pay day. Getting pritty tired of this but thats life. On the flip side in our easy 30degree weather in the bay I decided to polish my rim... for my car of course. Before After I got lazy and bought a set of T3 engine conversion mounts, got them cheap so thought why not. Mated a set of landrover rubber mounts (heres the end of my Toyota pureism) to complete the setup. My main set backs atm is just waiting for the engineer to readjust the valve clearances, 3 angle valve jobbie etc and the 2 month back order on the Toda oil pump gear! Getting my Coil overs organized next week and should have my J160 on its way by then too, Ditching my W57 for more ideal N/A ratios. EDIT: Oil pump gear is on its way! not sure what happened there but im not complaining.

Haha im just playing around with the whole 4age thing. But if your ever having that, hint of an urge to get a 4age I think kpr would be the man to speak to

Everything will most likely on a can line, youll have to add a transponder module that will read the key via exciter ring at the ignition, most of which have these built into the barrell itself from memory so your a little screwed there to start off with. Secondly if the ecu cannot 'talk' to the various other bcm's around the vehicle via can lines then fault codes are going to keep coming up etc. Best of all direct injection toymotas are utter shite, we get d4d avensis wagons come through all the time with problems, they run like crap, bog down, have no power, have to run a high octane fuel or else they detonate and the egr's always clogg up and put it into limp mode. Thats just my 5c worth on direct injection petrols, not giving you hate just letting you be aware of their niggles Moral of that story, get a 4age!

Same here ^ Rebuilt a W58 for a 1UZ with that kit, as far as I know its going fine.

Glad you agree, roof is paper thin anyways lol.

Went for a boys weekend up to Auckland last weekend and did a Car wreckers crawl. I came across an NZ new KE70 with an 'auto roof' sunroof at Zebra, $45 later she was in my car! Some of you may dis-like sunroofs, I somewhat have a fetish for them although I was concerned as to how it would effect the cars structural integrity. Since I had a spare shell I test fitted the sunroof to see how well it fit, turned out to be a bit of a fail cutting the hole to big. On the upside I used the piece i cut out as a template after trimming to suit. With the help of the old man & 4 tin snips I nervously cut the hole out in the good shell. Took another good hour carefully trimming/filing the hole till the sunroof frame slotted in perfectly. 4 hours later.. Really happy with the way it turned out & really enjoyed fitting it, quite a cool feeling knowing that this would have been one of the jobs to be done at Toyota 30 years ago, similar to what I do today. Structurally the roof Is actually more rigid due to the fact the bottom half clamps the sunroof down from the inside. I also like this design better as the glass is sealed from underneath rather than on the sides & whether the glass is in or out there is always a frame securing the roof. TRD Big end bearings, main bearings & 0.8mm Headgasket literally arrived overnight from Japan! +1 for the 'JDM' newspaper. My wheel collection so far 4 x Advan ADA's 14 x 6" +15 4 x Advan A3A's 14 x 6" +6 4 x Toyota Cressida factory wheels 15 x ? 2 X SSR MKIII 14 x 6.5" +9.5 Can never have enough wheels

Port work is doodiddlydone...I hope.. Sending engine bits to engineers tomorrow for acid dip, valve shim adjustment for new cams & head/block skim. Dont mind the old poos cams Left it with a rough but smooth finish to help with reducing pooling, increasing airflow. Not sure where I got my other idea from, perhaps some late night/half asleep researching.. Scored another pair of tyres and popped on another ada Yeah..thats about it, been slow going mostly tied up with rebuilding a friends w58/work etc.

Thanks for that, I still have a lot to learn. When you say not to make the radii too tight, are you meaning not to create, for example too deeper cuts around the valve guides with added sharp edges?

Its almost been a month of, sanding, buffing and polishing, i'm beginning to worry what kind of social life I have now.. The past month has been a bit of a waiting game, one of my friends was kind enough to lend me his air powered die grinder and I went on the hunt for some cartridge sanding rolls. Quickly found nz is too cabbage in the way of port polishing kits and sourced one from muurica. That arrived today so got stuck in Some may usually stop here but I'm far from done! I used the two stages of cross buffs to give it the shiny finish, still waiting on a set of Dremel abrasive finishing buffs to get into the smaller nooks & crannies. Once thats done i'll finalize the ports with a polishing wheel for that extra bling Some more shnazzy shots As for the intake ports here is my current plan: After some research/advice/youtube I found this to method to result with good figures for the job that I am doing which is nothing serious. First of all 'raising the roof' rather than taking more away from the 'floor' of the ports is more effective so that has to be taken into account whilst carrying out the job. The 'floor' of the intake ports will be left slightly rough where as the sides and roof will be polished essentially making the short radius the long radius & the long radius the short radius to create a tumbling effect when the air enters the ports. (feel free to correct my ideas if they seem whack) Besides the head work, nothing else will be happening till the engines done and fitted. TRD Big end bearings, Main bearings & 0.8mm Headgasket are on its way from our friends in Japland. Only need to send head away to engineers, purchase cam pulleys, cambelt, High flow oil pump gear and Sam-q's rwd cooling kit then assembly can begin!! On another note, found this gem from when I did my first ever engine job at work. Moral of that story, Dont buy an holden/izusu that has oil pressure fuel injection..

Figured this may come to use for someone: https://www.dropbox.com/s/ml6pmji6jt1l8d1/Hilux%20G%20series%20diff%20rebuild%20manual%20%20%282%29.pdf https://www.dropbox.com/s/63m1j9kc09yy3cn/Hilux%20G%20series%20diff%20rebuild%20manual%20page%20156.pdf

Been awhile now, but nothings really happened just saving up for more parts to get the engine completed. i'm not going to worry to much about the body until the engine/drivelines done. so what I did today. Found some 2.5" exhaust piping from old warranty claim scrap, cut off the old poo box and welded up this blast pipe thing. Finalized the ports with a 320 grit flap wheel on a dremel, gave the intake ports a different finish to help with air/fuel mixture. Now a question for those of you with some engine know how, I lapped a couple of the exhaust valves but with further checks I'm not too happy with how theyre looking. Theres quite a bit of pitting but most came out with a lap but the contact surfaces aren't consistant and some sit higher/lower than others. Question is, does it look like it will need a re-grind/new valves + regrind or could I get away with lapping the rest? Lapped exhaust port (you can just see the difference between the two ports): Non-lapped exhaust port: Non-lapped intake port: Lapped Vs Non lapped Exhaust valves: Non-lapped intake valve:

-Also to put another downer on your 6-speed idea, C160's use a different 'passengers side' box mount as opposed to the C56/52 etc 5 speed gearbox. To make it fit youll have to chop off the two mounting tabs and weld in two nuts in the body for the mount to bolt to. -Imo C56 5 speed is the best for strength, ratios etc -Blacktops sludge purely cause PEOPLE DONT SERVICE THEM!! then do reverse doughies and run big ends as the oil galleries are filled up with crap.. -My last two Blacktops I bought for 350/250 both complete with everything, the second one's crank was lunched from lack of servicing but she'll live again in my kp. -i've done this swap in my Trueno, my advice, buy one with a Blacktop already in it. When I was at high school I was just mad keen so did it (still runs today)

I concure on this^ You wont regret it

Cams and valve springs arrived today, slowly ticking off the ever growing list. Been stressing about setting up my diff with tooth pick axles, figured it will be more work getting a bigger diff plus it being heavier than my t series. Best of both = 28mm axles

You can buy recaro/bride aftermarket seat rails for kp60/61's from japan to suit sr recaro seats. Im quite sure they suit fishnets as well, I can confirm that this weekend.

CP Pistons & Rods arrived from straya. Acted like a little kid on x-mas morning opening this up.. Also scored one axle from "drft86" to replace ol twisty.

Not too much has happened as of late. At the moment i'm in the agonizing process of waiting for a load of parts from everywhere Never the less I polished up another rim and bought a 175/60R14 for test fitting, Seems to look a bit better than the 175/65 Also shaped the flares as best as I could with a dolly & hammer. Following that I Started cutting out the bog....needless to say it extended a bit further than I was expecting Borrowed a d.a. (thanks again Kurt) and started on the roof but need to get more sandpaper, a beartex stripping wheel and will spray the bare metal with an epoxy sealer primer so can start with the filler. Random shot Test fitted my front lip, was as if it was made for my kp!

Shotty phone pic dump One more really awkward piece to weld in then im 99% done with rust! purchased a new front lip as per example photo Borrowed a guard roller and spent all night pushing out the rear guards to give room for the wider track t series. still dont think it's enough but will get a set of coilovers soon to raise it back up again. I'm sure theres something else but can't remember right now haha.