chris r

Sold crv today. Turners cash now ftw. Super easy process and zero drama on my end. So so much better than trademe

Gave the pistons a bath in simple Green and exoff Before on bottom and top after the first soak Bit of scotchbrite and a pick for the ring grooves Figured out the shift lights on the orthia/crv. Had to do some modifications to the indicator so it doesn't need the ecu/module doesn't need to be there https://i.imgur.com/u8MT9Mv.mp4 Inhibitor wired up https://i.imgur.com/ghxEWGn.mp4

Apparently 20a ish? I can possibly test the set I'm about to be working with

Trip to wash world to blast the worse of the oil sludge off Onto the healing bench in my 'clean room' Rangi de glaze Yes I know I should mic everything and measure it blah blah. If I don't measure it I don't know how bad it is so I can live happily in denial. My theory is it was running well enough and not making bad noises before so it'll be good enough to go back together as it was. Vtec oil pump fitted The aliexpress oil feed kit is as good as the manifold and valve compressor tool Somehow the oil is meant to magic its way through that fitting on the block. Then through that fitting and into the head The fitting also seperates the un filtered oil and filtered oil with fresh air and hopes so doesn't instill much confidence at all. What did I expect for $50... Glad I figured it out now rather than once everything was installed and on startup

Stripped the block this morning. Looks super clean for 300 thousand Bearings look a bit worn but not fucked I'll need to do a bit of 'porting' on the oil drains on the vtec head so it matches up with the 2L bottom end

https://www.pantera-electronics.com/epbcontroller.htm I've found this controller. Currently working on if we can get it to meet cert specs

So clutch master stuff Crv on the left and s2000 on the right (gene) the s2000 need a spacer to be fitted to civics etc) Left two are s2000 and right is the crv. The crv has a shorter u clip and push rod. I swapped the pushrods and u clip over. Will test fit tomorrow

Put doort chamber thingy on and fitted fitted throttle cable. Installed torque converter bolts and cover. Connected battery and no sparks or smoke Plugged in the 'faulty' ecu I got out of the bin to test https://i.imgur.com/JtmWgEP.mp4 That's a good sign Auto ecu time Odo turns over (after its surgery) , speedo works no cel. Only hiccup is the rad fan is on constantly, as is the ac compressor That should be a diagnose/fix. Just need to install the shifter and gear indicator wiring/inhibitor switch

We sell something similar at work, same as any battery if they sit connected they discharge. The suppler recommends a trickle charger if leaving them to sit for a period of time. If disconnected they should be okay

Dizzy time. Had a cheap China housing that the timing was out or something was wrong with it New rotor and new ish cap and its (hopefully) good to go.

Loom taped and fitted to crv Quick trip to ripco for intake gasket

Nearly the end of spaghetti time.... For the crv. Just need to test 4 wires into the orthia body loom, I suspect they are for the gear selection input or something Last of the auto wiring de pinned pulled out of orthia loom and and back into the crv loom/plug Crv loom done as far as what needs go in th engine bay. I'll plug stuff in before I tape it up. Orthia loom needs more work but that can wait for now

mixed success today - Got the manual pedals in and found out the CRV clutch master pushrod is too short. diagrams have diffrent part numbers for the pushrods on crv/ orthia so it may be a length difference. I've got a couple of masters in the lockup so I'll go out and grab them next time I'm there That aliexpress manifold is the gift that keeps on giving - Fuel rail holes are slightly out, Nothing a file cant fix and the stock throttle body throttle cable wheel thing fowls the body too, again I've got a spare throttle at the lockup or if that's the same I've got a grinder

More spaghetti! Crv loom all repined to correct plugs. I added in the knock sensor wire. Will do the auto stuff tomorrow. I went to run the wire for the vtec solenoid and the orthia loom already has it populated and it's running to the dizzy plug. I'll have to look at the dizzy and see what's going there Qc/supervisor making sure I'm staying on task More cluster schenanagins. Turns out the crv and orthia clusters are the same size just different fonts Crv now has gear indication and a higher redline for more doorts If anyone wants the leftovers for digi speedo or something then let me know

Biscetti time! Orthia, manual crv and auto crv looms Partially stopped the orthia loom, I've started to pull out the auto stuff for the crv and I'll add in the reverse switch, vtec and re do the distributor plug to suit. Stripped the auto crv loom I'll need to repin the crv harness to suit the orthia ecu. Crv is obd2a and orthia obd2b so they have different plugs and totally different pinouts. I started on the repinning last night and it was quicker than stripping the looms. It'll slow down when I need to transfer the wires acorss for the auto (4th plug which isn't populated on the diagrams)

Just need some hammering to finish it off. Grabbed a clutch and new rotors and a bucket of cheap oil

Cv time! Two left two are the auto 36mm crv axles. Right side is ef b series manual (hopefully I can swap the inners over or use the bearings) Top right is faulty accord axles i grabbed from the bin Then the auto/manual half shafts and auto orthia axle on the bottom Got one auto crv axle assembled, pick a part mission inner cv along with the grease/boot off a accord axle. I grabbed the trans cooler I had floating around the lockup so that'll go into the crv as it has a manual rad

Pick a part mission turned into a Misson. Both auto crvs had had the CV's pulled out and chucked on the ground. Lucky between the two crvs there I got both larger shafts. Both were missing the inner bearings (which are different to the orthia ones) and inner cv boots were well gone. I pulled a odyssey apart and luckily the bearings are the same and there was a inner boot that also fit. Grabbed a loom out of a crv too as that'll save me some time as plugs etc are different between orthia and crv. This is turning into a bit of a time sink but hopefully it'll be drivable/I can get it sold. It would probably have been less time/effort to part it out Hopefully they install themselves

Clusters on the healing bench And all back together Interestingly the early clusters have abs light in different location and a low fuel warning light and the Facelift clusters don't have a fuel light. Borrowed a 36mm socket so I didn't have to make a trip to the lockup

Scored a new set of headers for $100, 4-1 design so I can move the cat forward a bit and fit the resonator in and have a "full" 2.5 system from the collector back

Just swapping boxes across, manual for orthia and auto into crv so I can flick it off. I've pulled the orthia motor so I can throw some rings/bearings/gaskets at the bottom end when I put the vtec head on

Crv is back in the healing bay Ratchet strap jack and making sure the torque converter stays where it needs to be. Orthia mounts and brackets bolt up and fit which is good. Means I can find crv stuff on rock if I need to. Honda cv shaft barry time The 5 stud stuff has larger diameter outer CV's so 36mm nuts. Turns out the shafts are larger diameter too. Orthia has 32mm outers so I can't just Wang the auto shafts into the crv. The Internet told me that the auto and manual shafts are the same. The diff spline count is the same but the length is different. The cv Cup is also heaps bigger on the 36mm shafts. I tried to swap the inner cv tripods across, that's when I found out the shafts are different sizes. I've got a set of shafts from the crx in the lockup, I'm hoping I can grab the inner cv cup and tripod off that and put it on the orthia shafts. I'll need to do a pick a part mission for a set of auto 36mm shafts

That's true. Wof is due in December so I've got time to wait/figure stuff out

Hmm could do, $70 for a bracket is less effort and less risk of needing a cert. Yes it's a trans swap but technically all 'oem' parts so I'll plead ignorance

Looks less daunting in the light Managed to get motor and trans out without crane and and major spills. I'm working in the carport so it's a bit damp today