chris r

in my fucking around with the crx I found a louvred with chamber gave me the least amount of rasp and least bad note (its a honda afterall). I started off with cheap louvered m&h resonators, and then went for a adrenalinR

everyone loves a bit of diamond plate. I spent ages drawing stuff attempting basic maths, thought i had everything worked out right. Then after I cut the plate I released it was shorter than I had planned. I dummied up the nixies and it'll work out with reduced spacing Used all the tubing I had and one bit short Failed at brazing so soldered it (poorly). it stuck well enough to survive a drop off the bench as I didn't let it cool down enough. I'll finish it off when I get some more tube

Dug through my hoard of stuff. I had planned on doing some stuff with copper and nixies so I'll see what I can come up with. I thought about leaving them corroded, polished one and decided I liked that better so did the rest I was a bit worried about the darker tee's but they came out okay in the end

Haven't done anything with the sub box remembered I had another clock project thats been sitting for a couple of years found all the components I'd ordered all the components soldered in place I forgot how many tubes I had

So being the durp I am I didn't read the cam card until I got home for the valve spring specs. They are a order in thing anyway so I wouldn't have been able to pick them up same day anyway. Fired a email off to speedscience and I've got a set of springs and retainers on the way. Meant to be two week delivery but we'll see. I'll do some reading up and might attempt ruining the head with a diegrinder at some point

3/4 race cam m9. They look small until you need to put it in a suitcase. I got a cam gear too. Will sort springs and retainers when back in nz. I chose it based on some good dyno results a magazine ran on a similar setup a few years ago and got really good results Specs are Lift: .456"/.428" Duration: 256°/268° Lobe Separation Angle: 107°/111° RPM Range: 2000-7200

On the off chance it's tune related do you think a tuning session on a dyno would potientally be beneficial? They can wack the big fans on which might keep things cool enough to get a tune done. Im unsure what fans your running but are there any factory maybe multi speed options you could use that flow more air and have a built in(on) shroud?

When I sold the crx I converted the cash to usd. My trip has been cheaper than expected and I've still got some cash left. I figured since my suitcase is nearly overweight why not add some more weight in the form of car parts. I've ordered a new bumpstick for the churbo shuttle motor and a cam gear to go with it. It works out way cheaper than back in nz. Springs and retainers are near as no difference back in nz

Fuck I bet your satisfied after figuring out the issues!

@TimShadboltfan27 if injected re solder the man fuel relay. Super common for solder joints to dry out and have no start/intermettant start issues Should be up to l/h side by fuse box

Do you need to do anything to the charging system for them?

Ef8 is sold and in its new home in chch. The pink/red crx got $1 reserved and that's also sold and off to chch. Some brave person is driving it down. I know it's blasphemous but feels good to have sold some cars and have less crap. Managed to send some spares away with them both too which is a bonus. Next year I can focus on the shuttle and finally get the new motor in and making spooly noises

Still got this. Still no wof. Did a scrap run the other week(month) I forgot how slow the 202 was, its getting smokey and fumey and is due for a refresh. Instead of pulling it out I'll assemble the mighty 253 and put that in eventually one day. I figure it'll be just as slow but v8 noises will make up for it. I'm toying the idea of injecting the 253. Looking at either a Holly quadrajet injection thing or doing a low buck megasquirt build. Keeping the carb is probably smarter with the amount I drive it but efi is so much nicer to live with. If anyone had a v8 m20 four speed for sale or knows where I can get one for not moonbeams let me know

Just keep riding it and let it burn off tbh

I'll have to do more research/trawling zebra

They are drum too unfortunately. I should try and make my own bracket but not that confident in my abilities tbh

Shuttle, 4wd so rear cv and driveshaft styz in the way. Unfortunately that's the only 'kit' I've found for disc rear

Waiting to hear back from the guy about that

Mine was fatigue related (from the brain injury I got in the usa crash) basically tired and fucked out and hit bort

Re Rear drum to disc conversion Would brackets like this be okay? Uses stock rear disc and calipers/parking brake etc from a later model car. I'm assuming correct grade hardware would be required They bolt to the bearing carrier assembly

Bloody fan hits the bumper when its refitted so I'll have to pull that off and re mount it. In shuttle related news... What do you do when you have no job and are saving the money you do have for a holiday? Buy a new turbo. I bought the nissan one years ago as a t28 but i'm not too sure what it actually is, Suspect its off a RFB of some description but its going on trademe. The disco spud should enough for my power goals

Just cook them as you drive along and the riders can grab them as they pass you

The fan is mounted now Made up a bracket in the vise for the filler neck/rad cap Played with the rivnut tool Test fit Jizz of paint I had a airlock when I filled it with coolant so put a bleeder in the top hose. Took it for a longer test drive and it goes well, Can actually have a conversation in the car without raising your voice now! The heater works now too which is nice for defrosting the windscreen.

wired up the fan and got the polarity right the second time so the flows the right way. Did a test fill with water and it bled up fine with no airlocks etc. heater started working too which is a first since i've owned it. ran it for 20-30 mins and it didn't overheat or leak. The fan cycled on and off a few times so I'm calling it fixed. Took it for a quick doort and the intake is now the loudest part which is how it should be.

Filler neck and mounts welded up by someone who actually knows what they are doing Made some plates and test fitted. Seems to clear everything so I'll give it a paint and figure out a bracket for the fillerneck tomorrow I took a look at the rear muffler I took off and there wasn't any fiberglass left in it which probably explains the noise