Muncie

Been calibrating and repairing these things for about a decade now. Warren & Brown are about as good as it gets next is Norbar then Teng. I own w&b and Norbar, they can be rebuilt parts are cheap and available and are fully adjustable.

Hey man yup still working on this gear might be able to source you one on my staff discount. 1/2" drive top out at 350nM for the flash brands its basically because the square drive will shear off. the cheaper wrenches use softer metal so are lower capacity again, cheap or not they all do same job accuracy wise genuinely surprised how accurate some of the cheap wrenches are. In saying that steer clear of Toptul its the brand that gives me most issues. Teng are good but the ratchet assembly are a little fragile if you use them top of the dial all the time, so go overkill when buying.

Came up a treat! No before photos cause who needs to see gross v6 stuff. Will paint the rocker covers got plenty of colours at moment will need to decide. They'll go back on for now to make engine watertight so i can go to town with the degreaser again to get the rest of the gunk and paint the block.

Stripped off the rocker covers, throttle body and manifold from throttle to supercharger for a trip to the parts cleaner at work, bit greasy externally but internally everything's tidy especially the rocker covers. Pretty sure this engine has had a leaking power steering pump or hose failure which has showered the engine in oil attracted dust and not been cleaned up. No warning bells so far everything looks good. Going to port the throttle body and inlet manifold to the supercharger as there's meat to spare for sure.... maybe a v8 throttle body if i can find one with a cable.

Was expecting this to die 18 months ago thrashed snot out of it ran it on kerosene while i got it for free. Played with tuning etc its been through a lot and just keeps running doesn't burn oil or use water....... now ive said this it'll probably blow a head gasket on way to work tomorrow. Just needs to last till i get new engine in.

Been running stock ECU so shouldn't be the tune..... will get some new oxy sensors as they're old as fuck and a new fuel filter just in case my my fuel pressure is a bit sad. Looks very lean.

Randomly shit a coil pack on the ecotec last week limped home running on 4 fitted a spare complete ignition module from my hoard back in action and only hour late to work. Something must of caused it though so rockauto'd some new plugs what do ya know 2 melted electrodes so probably 2mm spark plug gap that'll do it.

Dont know why i find this stuff daunting looks very logical. Ive found a transmission place in Auckland who supply alot of good quality parts and good stuff for gm transmissions. Think I'll throw my existing transmission in with the new engine with a shift kit and just be nice to it for a while as its done plenty of k's but isn't giving me any problems. I'll find a lower k box to rebuild with some upgrades at a later date then turn the wick right up on the engine.

I didn't even get it in garage before waterblasting the shit out of it! Less greasy its obviously had some love in past as it looks ok. Now to plan, do i pull the heads and clean the ports up fit studs and new head gaskets........ or just get it in hmmm.

New engine is home so finally got a chance to look it over...... its fucking filthy! Power steering hoses must of leaked forever and they just topped it up. Cool stuff though after a casual poke around. Billet mace engineering oil cap cheesy but cool, A mace modular blower pulley setup has been fitted so its a piece of cake to change sizes/boost Egr delete has been done on head fully gone! New looking water pump, belts and rear main seal have been done recently. It came with the pcm bcm and ignition key so i could potentially just slam it in if its compatible with my cars body loom. The Meh stuff. Doesn't have the flexplate as it was a manual. theyre balanced different to the ecotec I'll ask around i may be able to get my ecotec one balanced to suit i will be using an ecotec transmission anyway. Not end of world. Loom has some twist and tape joins on the trans section of loom easily reversed but the pcm will have to have had some reflash to allow the manual to work. The exhaust manifolds have lots of snapped bolts..... it obviously had headers which they kept.

Currently trying to decide if going turbo would be worth doing in scheme of things i could have a manifold and turbo on for $1200 bucks. Would simplify the exhaust for me.... I would really struggle to talk myself out of taking the blower off though. Why not both? Thats what i keep telling myself. Then i remember my Transmission has been labeled the box of neutrals by the internet which brings me back to reality.

Whoever decided to not put a drain bung in the pan of this needs a dick punch huge mess, but overall easy job good to check it out no real sludge or anything in there. Will dump again when i do shift kit which will ensure all the old fluid is flushed out of system

New engine arrived at work today from Wellington, while i was off sick which is balls means im going to have to go to work tomorrow instead of having another sick day. Anyway i got stuck into a transmission fluid change as it has been in there ages and smelled slightly funky.

The yanks do try to make heavy things fast which probably doesn't help the poor old 4L60e's reputation, the fact they take more than one massive hit from a turbo LS blows my mind.

Box of neutrals? Haha I'd like 400hp (budget probably gets thin after that) and i wont be racing it every weekend so hoping extra line pressure good fluid and 3.9 ratio in diff will help situation. 4l60e's theyre cheap enough and easy to change so will see how it goes.

Hosed the boys KXD (Chinese KTM) with some of my homemade chameleon paint looks awesome and covered really well over black 2 light coat and satin clear i had laying around. Hes pretty stoked.

Ive never gone any further into an auto transmission than a filter change im now wanting to take my daily driver a fair bit further power wise so the trans will need some help to live, educate me..... Transmission is a 4L60E it will be going behind a Holden L67 with decent helping of boost in my commodore im using the ecotec transmission as its in there and in good nick. Im looking at a stage 2 kit im happy with a firm shift and may think about a 2500rpm hi-stall converter at same time, Any tips and tricks when digging in to the valve body or other things i should consider to save myself headaches?

Have found a usable map for the vy ecu, Its a tune people use with a top end swap where a l67 top end is fitted to an ecotec so will be a good starting point. You sacrifice control of the supercharger bypass valve which still works as intended the ecu just cant open it under certain events which appears would be limp mode anyway. Will need an uprated fuel pump as the l67 is dual speed with more flow so will just throw a decent aftermarket pump in and run single speec to keep everything simple.

@vk327 will have a good look at the pcm and looms when i get them side my side probably going to pick up another ecotec to raid parts from so i can keep the car mobile. Pcmhacking.net has a few builds with l67's on vy PCM'S so will message those people and see how they addressed the above issues. If its to shit I'll consider a Haltec or something. Long game plan is to get a turbo on this too.

Will look to sling this in car in near future. If i can do some overtime be great to get an intercooler plate on it before it goes in hole if not will add some water/alcohol injection. My previous commy would absolutely rip shit down the 1/4 for the first 200m then heat soak would hit and probably 200c inlet air Temps. Im tempted to try a carburetor with alcohol inline after the airflow meter to chill the supercharger itself surely that would also help it live longer even as an interim measure.

Ive regretted selling my supercharged VX for ages now....... only one thing for it! This time with my knowledge of tuning the factory fitted gear so will swap my VY PCM over to this allowing on the fly tuning over USB.

There is also a difference in field servicable and crimped fitting type AN hose. The crimp type hose will assemble fine with the screw together fittings but will pop off or leak well under rated pressure. Thats with speedflow stuff.

New recorded top speed, was humming along perfectly then the new drive belt exploded so now on my 4th belt. Theres more in it i suspect after it maxes out the torque converters overdrive and engine winds out the belt slips cooks itself and unraveled.

Thinking about making the top of frame open around engine as the vtwin once all polished up will be a real feature. Plan in my head is to brace the front an rear of frame to engine mounts so the engine becomes a semi stressed part of the structure, will replace the bottom tubes with something meaty like 25mm box section as that'll help with getting everything flat for mounting. Decided to shove engine forward too for minimum wheelies max wheel spin. Got eye out for a set of extra wide go kart rear wheels. Have found a blank 520 sprocket too which sorts the rear axle, big chain im used to 420 pitch which i chew through with monotonous regularity on my other projects.

Give a toothbrush a go with some more alcohol. Failing that try some cutting (for paint) compound with the toothbrush if it doesn't get it off it'll be really clean.