Muncie

Took for fucking ever to decipher the wiring diagram to get this running again after gutting the loom, china must have run out the correct colour's when they made the loom so I was off to an ass kicking before I started. Anyway 2 hours of combining wires in different combinations I electrocuted myself and was stoked as that meant I had spark. Engine is welded in chains on so shortly after the vid I parked it against the garage wall and smacked it 1st 2nd 3rd to run it in, plenty of poke! Needs a clutch lever a gear stick and a whole lot of fettling but its a runner.

My current engine build will be using an intercooler plate adapter under the supercharger of my l67 v6 for my commodore, problem is they are over a grand for just what you see below and I reckon there could be a better solution out there in nz. What do you think? Could you fabricate or print something out of plastic that would work for less than the mace engineering plate?

Got chain on clutch working throttle ready to go so ripped into the wiring got everything squared away enough for a test fire...... no spark. The ignitor isn't showing a single sign of life no current draw at all. I did find a diode tucked into the wiring loom up near where hand controls wire in which doesn't appear in the wiring diagram I got with engine, but does on another one i was given (via oldschool.co.nz) Any ideas anyone? I may just try a generic single cylinder DC module as this just fires both coils at same time so should work.

Save your money and just run a Holden v6 power steer pump for the noise and nice new good quality stock belts.

Hey man, re: your crackly speakers If they have been in storage for a bit they probably have a little grit or dust in them. Have revived speakers before by wiring them up to a small stereo just to get them making some sound and flip them over cone facing down on the work bench and leave them for the day. Crunchy bits fall out and your good to go. Better living every one......

Hey mate the way I read that is- That charger needs the batteries separated for it to work eg: you could put an isolation switch in your link between your 2x 12v batteries then yes it'll charge them independently, but you would then need to disconnect your charger when you go back to 24v re-closing your link. It will try to balance both batteries to the same voltage but depending on your batteries internal resistance they will need different charging rates to achieve this, Eg one might charge at 3amps the other at 4 for 6 hours to reach 14volts or fully charged. *My explanation may be way off btw* more technical people can confirm or deny this.

Cheers man its good to know where things have come from. I wouldn't have known as I'm not quite looking in huge detail yet.

Found this site, it's a little clunky but pricing seems good. Look familiar to everyone? https://www.kiwiconnectors.com/kiwi-motorsport-electronics-sensors/atm-connectors

Engine lined up with rear sprocket and mounts welded in today started to pop and fizz a bit on last weld underneath. So thats it I'm out of welding gas but the rest is bolt in stuff. Just need chain, sprocket and the wiring done then can think about a open pipe ride around block. Proportions are pretty epic! This was a 125cc quad so its basically got a second engine stuffed in to it.

Took more out of wiring this is now the bare minimum it needs to run charge a battery and do what a quad does. Engine now has a functioning clutch cable to. Damn!

Surge of enthusiasm this arvo thinned out the wiring to engine only. Recon i can take more out theres no stand interlocks or anything so can unpin that stuff as well. Figured out how to mount engine solidly now ive got chain and sprocket sorted i can align engine and zap it in.

Found a random 22 tooth sprocket in 520 pitch that will bolt straight on from Moto1 been looking for ages and bugger me the chain was on special too! Couldnt believe my luck. Might unravel wiring loom today and pull out all the lights and gauge wiring it wont need.

It would be a bit weak in a bike but should be pretty fun in this and it looks sweet! engine mounts are made i just need box section to finish it up where the rear mount will go. Ive got some mikunis off a kawasaki that would be perfect if its too asthmatic. This is for my daughter shes 14 and just recently got her head around riding a dirtbike.

Bloody love this project btw Chuck some drag radials on it.

Its on its wheels again suspension all working bit of a squat going on. Fully welded up too its ridged as fuck with the mobility scooter chassis as a base. Was considering bars going back to seat from front suspension but doesn't seem to need it at this stage theres no flex. Plenty of room around engine for legs too stretch out.

You need some caltrac bars. Your engines trying its best to wrap the leaf springs around the diff.

This is what im trying to tidy up clearly worked at some stage..... crimp slid off easy as.

Used to work for Rocket lab, yup i know who you mean. Rocketlab didn't fit in with my "work life balance" goals at 38 i was considered fucking old.

Yeah i picked up on his involvement through his build threads. Oldschool.co.nz seems to be the "Google" for car knowledge these days.

Signed up for a hpacademy wiring course will see how well that holds my attention after sitting through 9 hours of zoom meetings today.

I want to build nice compact looms that can maybe be tucked away a bit easier than a stock one without old crispy connections. Ive always managed to get stuff working but yeah no more bullet terminals time to up the quality and water resistance. Working for Rocketlab spoiled me.....

Ive got 1 big loom to built for my Commodore engine harness and 2 motorcycle looms to make up very shortly whats the go these days? Wanting a nice wrap that isn't that split corrugated junk. Wiring wise im open to some non mil spec connectors but reasonably priced and availability for less than a limb for my motorcycle looms and maybe ignition harness on the commy. What have you found or recommend tools supplies consumables etc youtube videos even?? Im not going into business im just sick of ugly wiring on my projects, i do have kids coming into building projects so might as well teach them to do shit nicely.

So with the ecotecs health now down graded to running but may become terminal soon, I started on stripping everything that wont be going in with the engine swap off the L67. Including one rather haggard in places engine loom. Just exhaust manifolds to go and thats as far as it'll need to go.

Threw new O2 sensors in today runs nice and idles better took all of 10 minutes to do both fuck it was easy! Why ive not done them before now escapes me thought it'd be a bitch of a job. Also threw in another cam sync sensor cos the one on my new engine was visibly newer for good measure. Think ive got a theory on the crank sensor fault, may not actually be the sensor ive got 2-3 mm of float on the crank when you go to start it the starter pushes crank forward. And at low revs just the tips of the reluctor ring pass through the sensor giving a shit signal. Give the crank a nudge back and the idle improves if its pushed forward so it might just be that.

Blowtorch that shit sweeping motion with a wide torch nozzle works a treat not aiming to melt anything just freshen up surface.