yetchh

8 hours ago, Nominal said:

@yetchh

 

It's a fucken nice example, wants 100k for it. 

Yeah I did the fan upgrade, tho mine was from an 80 series cruiser and fan hub from a kzn165 which I put some 30000cst oil in bringing up I guess the hub oil to about 15000cst. Pulled a Lot of air. 

22 hours ago, Raizer said:

Factory exhaust dump pipe is a big restriction!

Gotta make sure your viscous hub is working properly too as they don't use forwards momentum for cooling, it's all down to the fan, can also get a cooler 72deg (I think) prado thermostat which gives you a bit more time. 

Finally succumbed to the chch curse.. Stolen hiluxes. Was taken last night from Tennyson St in St Martins. I'm not holding out any hope of it being recovered but if you see it

Plate number EBC734, giz a bell. Thanks. 

I'm a big fan of high rpm power as opposed to all all out boosting (not that I'm opposed to that) be awesome to see that 6 scream.. I see issues with valve train and rods above 8k+ tho. 

5 hours ago, Spencer said:

I don't actually know but if I was speculating the sump on these modern motors is probably factored into the block rigidity equation when they model/test/create these modern alloy engine blocks. Usually they tie into the gearbox etc so they are a structural part that probably adds rigidity to the bottom end. In motors that have shitty bottom ends (old shit with average designs) block rigidity problems usually show up when you rev them more than stock and the block/crank gets wobbly and you run bearings more often or get funky harmonics. I would guess that is why that guy with the turbo motor in the 86 made a custom sump out of a chunk of alloy so its as strong or better than the original part. This is just me talking shit as I don't know if it was designed to be structural or not, something to consider when replacing it though.

Everything I've read about the 1gr indicates the upper sump ads structural rigidity to the the block. 

12 minutes ago, Roman said:

Yeah will do it how the factory pans do, will just cut a groove then use sealant. 

Will have o-rings on the interface to the oil filter in/out lines. (again as per factory fit) 

Do you reckon you'll be compromising the strength offered by the factory upper sump by removing it, especially if your planning on revving to 10k? Unless you have some strengthening in mind.. 

I took a look at the sump on my 2wd 1gr hilux and it has the sump way forward, like 100mm past the timing cover, and it's 6ltr capacity. They also have the same bolt pattern as the 4gr.

4 hours ago, VitesseEFI said:

Usually means they blow-up a lot, hence high demand….

They're actually one of toyotas more reliable engines, but like anything if maintenance isn't keep up to date things go wrong. 

Anyway, soz for the spam @Roman

As I say that two come up on the tard for $5.5k both with 250+km

Shit, there ain't a lot of room under that block.. I'm a big fan of the 1gr as a transplant but the 7-9k price tag puts me off, for such a common motor. 

19 minutes ago, cletus said:

if its a big effort to fit,have to cut the car up etc, may as well fit a 3.5 version?

That's what is going to say, can only rev it to 7k tho... Unless a 4gr crank fits into a 2gr block. 

11 hours ago, Nominal said:

Left a CTEK on a car in storage that I didn't see for a couple of months. When I wanted to start it the charger was blinking and the battery was flat. I wasn't impressed.

This was my second CTEK in that situation, I originally got a low-spec one because I was really just using it to maintain a car battery, but it didn't like that role and would switch itself off, so I replaced it with a regular car-sized one that behaved as above.

The one I have in my main garage seems to work fine, but I move it around more regularly. On a really dead battery I've needed to use a dumb charger initially once or twice.

I bought the century charger and its had my 121 on maintain for 2 and a half years no probs, that included one  full year of maintenance only.. 

Would definitely buy another. 

23 hours ago, cletus said:

Fully restored underbody with some rejuvenation spray 

 

Got some small car barrying this morning,stopped to get a coffee and parked next to a k11 which looked ginormous next to this thing 

I walked out and a dude sitting outside started sharning about;

how his k11 looked big

 it had a 1000cc motor ,

and i had 12 inch tyres so that must be cheap,his has 13s 

is it a 800cc?

Whoa 660cc that must be good on fuel,

oh its an auto?

My brother has a manual one 

 

cool 

 

Did you do that? 

Try living in a small town behind a large hill.. Most of the time I can't get what I need. 

On 25/01/2023 at 15:30, Hyperblade said:

Just say Ben sent you.

Just be clear with your requirements about when you need it done, and your expectations on quality (long term don't want it to happen again) vs speed (e.g. just fix it as cheap as possible now).

John had the car today and ended up talking me into a new exhaust, the other one was cactus anyway and I'm surprised it didn't completely fail. I was waiting till I bang the turbo back on but that could be ages away.. He's a good bloke, recommend. 

3 hours ago, ajg193 said:

Old Barry sold Safe R Exhausts to a couple of young roughians a few years ago, they didn't seem to be particularly on to it at the time but they may be better now?

 

Edit: Google reviews seems to reckon they are still as legit as ever 

All good bro thanks, its in at Canary Automotive as we speak. 

22 hours ago, shizzl said:

Bled up the clutch today, then noticed the fork was sitting in the wrong spot on the throw out bearing.

 

so pulled the box, found the metal retaining clip was bent.

smashed it back and reinstalled the box, now it sits great. Funny that..

 

not much left to do on it, probably a days work.

Couple of vac lines, finalise a bit of wiring, sort some radiator hoses/outlets etc. refit carpets and modify the console, fit the lower shifter boot.

and find a suitable pod filter.

 

Re the pod filter, I got a k&n on for the mazda that had an angled sleeve.. 

1 hour ago, Hyperblade said:

Not a dedicated company, but he has many many years building exhausts and a lot of experience in the area, he's done full systems for our race cars, and can rebuild mufflers from scratch. He works for himself so is reasonably priced. He's done a wide range of cars from my little starlet to ferraris.

Ok bro cheers, do I name drop? 

Thanks fellas.. as per the gov, just gonna go to safe r, I used to use them as well and they're not far. 

3 hours ago, JustHarry said:

@yetchh just need a patch welded on it or something?

I'll get my bottle refilled and I can do it 

Think I need a new muffler as well, but cheers. 

3 hours ago, Hyperblade said:

John at Canary Automotive will be able to sort you out, he's in woolston.

Is he an exhaust company? 

Hi chaps, anyone have hookups here in crimes for exhaust work? Failed my wof on a leaky front muffler and need repairs this week as I don't have the time. Any leads would be great. 

Cheers. 

10 hours ago, shrike said:

These are top feed correct? Any idea on length? Pretty sure Toyota 1NZ-FE injectors are the same/similar size and have better hole pattern/atomisation.

Common to swap them into the 1gfe Lexus IS200 as they run better

@Roman can you confirm?

Apparently 4agze injectors fit also.. If I could go to a modern injector that would be excellent. 

Morning gents, looking to replace the injectors on the 121, they're early low impedance mazda denso 195500-0285 blue tops 210cc (I think), where is a good place to buy replacements? Or does anyone have a good set of similar injectors? . I think 80's toyotas are the same.

Cheers. 

4 hours ago, d.p.n.s said:

hi all.

and recommendations on places to use in chch to skim the head.

 

cheers

I used to use Flemings, but last time I was there he was run off his feet and talking about packing it in.. He's out on Lowther st, Sockburn. Otherwise I use caraid on Duke St in town.