kws

haha, once i have the parcel tray fixed and back in the car ill certainly keep an eye out for one. I had one in the back of my old Marina, along with a tartan blanket on the rear seat back

Part Two is live on my website now. The beast is back in action. ​​​​​​​ http://www.tasteslikepetrol.net/2016/12/rover-sd1-the-big-injection-job-part-2/

Today was the start of the big injection system refresh. The whole injection system has come off, all the hoses will be redone, and some tidying up is on the cards. http://www.tasteslikepetrol.net/2016/12/rover-sd1-the-big-injection-job-part-1/

More work on the SD1. Put the door back together with new gaskets and trim. Much better. http://www.tasteslikepetrol.net/2016/12/rover-sd1-putting-it-together-handle-gaskets-waist-trim/

http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&title=25-Temperature-Controller-and-Display&A=112617

Finally did some more work on the Rover. Decided to clean up the window switch, and picked up the last piece of the puzzle to fix the fuel leak. http://www.tasteslikepetrol.net/2016/12/07/rover-sd1-window-switch-cleaning/

Speeduino. The lead dev has advised that i can change the trigger angle so doesnt really matter. Just wasnt too sure as all the land/range rover guys can use the holes at 90deg.

also just found out i can tell the ECU what angle the sensor is at too. Should work.

Im having a brain fart with the trigger wheel. The standard placement puts the VR sensor clockwise 90 degrees from TDC, and the missing tooth is 5 teeth passed the sensor. If i were to move the sensor 270 degrees (so on the other side of the crank, or 90 degrees anti-clokcwise) instead, how would i position the missing tooth then? Still 5 teeth passed sensor, even if the missing tooth is then on or passed the TDC mark?

Third rule of old car ownership, - Make sure the majority of receipts were paid for by someone else

I also had a lol when reading the hand written receipts.... the first owner in NZ was a "Mr Barry".

Im having withdrawls from working on the Rover (due to recovery from my injury), so did some "boring" stuff. Put all the receipts i have into a spreadsheet, its a bit of a read. Almost $15,000 in receipts, and thats from 41,000 miles back in 1989 to the current 77,700 miles. Thats not taking into account inflation, and im missing the first 20,000 miles of receipts in NZ. In that time its had two rear shocks, lots of spark plugs, couple of trans services, 3 power steering racks, two radiators, oh, and two complete engine rebuilds (cam, followers, pistons, rings, bearings, valves, seats etc). The first rebuild was 48,071M, the second was at 61,816M. The second one was was due to incorrect parts being used in the first one, like Holden cam followers instead of Rover ones.

This is awesome. Love it when engine swaps go against the norm like this. Bet it twists some undies of the "purists".

Thanks for the replies guys. The Y-Pipe isnt too far away and will cool the sensor down or anything? Reading about your experiences made me plan my wiring differently, Roman. I will be wiring the O2 sensor so that it only has power when the fuel pump does. This will mean it gets a small pulse when the pump primes initially, but wont be powered unless the ECU turns the pump on.

Who knows about proper O2 sensor placement? Once my leg is working again, and i have fixed the fuel leak on the Rover ill be getting the bung for the wideband welded in. My plan was to install the bung just after the Y-Pipe, so it reads both banks, but due to the design of the exhaust the Y-Pipe is damn near half way down the car. Is it still a go to install it there, or is it too far away? If i cant install it there, what are the implications of tuning the engine using only one bank of O2 data? Ill have the engine running as well as possible, so hopefully no/minimal differences between the two banks. This is the layout of the exhaust (albeit not my car, mine is no where near as tidy lol)

What a day. A speaker is in, and a trip to the hospital was on the cards. http://www.tasteslikepetrol.net/2016/11/20/rover-sd1-a-trip-to-the-hospital/

More work, yay. Got the headunit in, and replaced the failed window regulator. Finally have all four windows working and completely closing now. Deets - http://www.tasteslikepetrol.net/2016/11/19/rover-sd1-headunit-install-window-reg-replacement/

Did some preliminary work for the stereo tonight. Cut the plugs off the standard radio Soldered them to the new radio harness Note the two speakers connected to the harness. Fronts only here, the rears are powered by the same output via the factory fader control in the console. Also tested the stereo bracket in the standard garnish. Looks mint, almost like it was made for it.

What thermal imaging toy did you go with, out of curiosity?

Oh, completely forgot about that. I did actually order braided sleeve, lol. Ill be following the layout of the standard loom as much as possible, but ill take note and care to keep sensors away from noise. TPS has shielded wire, and there will be zero solder joins if i can help it.

The wire for my Speeduino/SD1 loom arrived today, so i can start the proper planning now. Anyone got any tips that i should know for designing and making the loom? Itll be wrapped in self amalgamating tape, new weatherproof connectors, and new connectors for sensors/injectors. Will not reuse anything if i can help it. Going to design it similar to how the standard loom runs, with the sensor wires running down each bank with the injectors, depending on which side of the engine they are on.

More progress. Old radio is out, and I investigated the non-functioning rear window. http://www.tasteslikepetrol.net/2016/11/13/rover-sd1-radio-removal-window-investigation/

http://www.tasteslikepetrol.net/2016/11/11/rover-sd1-binning-the-pod/ Got rid of the ugly pod filter and reinstalled the original airbox. ​​​​​​​

As i have mentioned here and there, one of the big draw cards for having the EFI model isnt just the awesomeness, but the fact that i can convert the car to run a Speeduino custom ECU. I build the Speeduino ages ago, well before i got the car, and have been waiting to get the project moving again. With the car now in my possession, the Speeduino project is back on the boil and parts have been ordered. I will be removing the standard engine loom and making a custom loom with all new wire and plugs. I also intend to run a pair of Subaru coil packs and igniters in a wasted spark configuration. I havent quite worked out where i will mount them. I have completed the initial wiring diagram sketch, And will be building off that with a V2 sketch outlining all the connectors and where it will run in the engine bay. I also need to fuse the main power feed to the Speeduino. I picked the enclosure for the Speeduino today. Has enough space for the boards, wiring and even the Bluetooth adaptor. Being plastic it should help with reception for Bluetooth too, although i may look at mounting that module outside the box. The wiring will come out the end of the box, once i decided which connector to use. I have the new wiring for the harness on the way, along with all the weather proof connectors i could ever need. I just need to weld the WB02 sensor bung into the exhaust, buy and fit the trigger wheel/sensor, and make up a new intake pipe to bypass the AFM (and weld the bung for the IAT into that).

From what i have seen (and the others actually in the UK will be able to clarify), tidy examples go for a lot of money and sell quickly. The prices seem to be on the up; i guess thats what happens when availability goes down.